nisskid

im glad someone said it, for anyone with any idea about japanese culture, this will have come as no surprise. this talk about Nissan Australia apologising is a joke, we're not in Japan, we're in Australia, we deal with things different here.

cheers mate, i was annoyed having a limit of only being able to archive 50 at a time, let alone 1 haha

honestly, id be pissed if my forged wheel broke without a major hit, and id probably try to get nissan to replace it (hey why not?), but i wouldnt expect nissan, or any manufacturer to replace wheels with damage that could very easily have been caused by a big hit.

i have better things to do then to go through 500 messages to see which ones i need and which ones i dont lol majority of my PM's are sales, i like to keep track of what ive sold/bought, details of people ive bought/sold off of etc etc

how do you archive messages in the new layout? cant see how to, and im on the limit of my inbox, dont wanna be deleting old messages.

btw, just in case people forgot, you paid 150k for a car with 500k performance.

not sure what that would tell much. like i said, the impact itself probably didnt do any compressional or bending damage, just cracked from stretched metal.

sorry guys, inbox is full, usually i archive a bunch every few weeks but i cant figure out how to do that now.. the sparco is in rough condition, doesnt look too pretty but gets the job done.

once again you never cease to amaze me how little your arguments ever have to do with the actual subject. lol what? ive never ridden a bike to a show, i dont even go to many car shows, only a few AJD's and the SAU day. and my 32 was my daily/work car for years, main reason it ever came off the road at any time was because it got defected, very rarely was it off the road due to breaking down. wrong person to be talking about reliability mate, my car is known to be one of if not the most reliable drift cars in SA. you seem more consumed in arguing my right to have an opinion, rather than arguing my opinion itself, we're not in china mate. im sorry, but how the hell does nissan know that? you expect every car and wheel manufacturer to just willy nilly replace wheels when they come in damaged, just because the user says "yeh i didnt hit anything"

R32 Cat-Back Exhaust with 5" cannon: $250 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/354199-s-a-r-3-2-e-x-h-a-u-s-t-s/ Blitz Blow-Off Valve w/ mandrel bent 2.5" piping: $100 Sparco Rev Fixed Back Bucket seat (rough condition, has tears etc, still structurally sound tho) $150 3-Point Harness: $50 R32 GTR grill: $150 R32 GTR Bonnet (dark blue, small blemishes on lip): $300 R32 GTR Style Bonnet with gts-t latch (GTS-t bonnet modified to look like GTR bonnet): $200 R33 VLSD Diff with housing and half shafts: $250 R33 Front LCA's (extra camber for R32's): $180pr Stock R32 Parts Suspension/Steering 2x Front Sway Bar - $50ea 2x Front Complete upper control arm assembly's including bracket and king pin bearing - $100ea -- PICS PICS 2x Front Camber Arms - $40ea -- PICS 2x Front Passenger side Lower Control Arm - $60 -- PICS 2x Rear Traction arms - $35ea -- PICS PICS 2x Rear Camber arms - $35ea -- PICS 2x Rear Lower Control Arms - $60ea -- PICS 2x Rear Hub Uprights - $100ea -- PICS PICS 2x Rear Complete Uprights - $70ea 1x Rear Subframe - $100 2x Rear Toe Rods (non-hicas) - $35ea -- PICS 1x Rear Toe Rod (hicas) - $50ea Misc: 2x Clear Front Indicators - $60ea 2x Drive-shafts - $50ea 1x Tail-shaft - $100 1x Horn, can be hooked up to any car - $20 -- PICS 2x Stock Clutches, 1 half warn, one fair bit more warn - $30 and $70 1x Stock Rear Spoiler (with brake light) - $50 -- PICS 3x RB20 Coilpacks - $30ea 1x Turbo Timer, very basic timer, manual set - $20 1x RB20 Fuel Pump - $40 -- PICS 1x Igniter Module (breaks down under a lot of heat) - $30 -- PICS

ALL PRICES ARE AS PAIRS 15" 2x 195/55 - Bridgestone Turanza ER300 - 60% tread - $70 2x 195/60 - Maxxis Radial UA-603 - 90% tread - $100 16" 2x 205/55 - Michelin Primacy - 60% tread - $70 2x 225/50 - Sumitomo/BJ (mismatched pair) - 50-60% tread - $60 17" 2x 205/50 - Bridgestone Potenza RE040 - 60% tread - $70 2x 215/40 - Maxxis Victra Z45 - 60-70% tread - $80 2x 215/45 - Bridgestone Potenza RE050A - 60% tread - $80 2x 215/50 - Toyo Teo - 60% tread - $70 2x 225/45 - Bridgestone/Toyo (mismatched pair) - 60% tread - $70 2x 225/45 - Nankang - 70% tread (slight outer edge on 1) - $80 2x 235/45 - Continental Contact Sport - 40-50% tread - $45 2x 235/45 - Kuhmo Ecsta AST - 40-50% tread - $45 2x 235/45 - Dunlop SPSport 9000A - 60-70% tread (chunk out of sidewall - for drift/burnouts) - $60 2x 235/45 - Triangle - 50-60% tread - $70 2x 235/45 - BJ/Talon (mismatched pair) 60-90% tread - $80 2x 235/45 - Triangle - 70% tread - $90 2x 255/40 - Michelin/Nankang (mismatched pair) - 40-50% tread - $45 18" 2x 235/45 - Michelin Preceda - 60% tread - $60 2x 245/40 - Sumitomo Z3 - 60% tread - $80

double post

go back to my last few posts, i explained it very clearly there.

George spends a lot of money on his cars, and not a tonne of time driving them. He thinks this is how everyone should own cars. Someone like me who spends a lot of money driving their cars, a lot of time working on their own car, and as little money on the car itself, is a mystery to him. Thankfully i am more than content with what i do and how i do it, so getting people like George's approval is the last on my list of things to do.

ok i have a Blitz Blow-Off Valve w/ mandrel bent 2.5" piping, has a small chip out of the trumpet, doesnt make any difference really, just cosmetic. $100 delivered anywhere in Aus.

alright, the junbl one is sold, still have the cannon one

yeh, nissan should replace every one's parts every time they hit stuff. go smash your car into a tree, it should be covered under warranty. im standing behind nissan on this one.

villis bro

ok, a few things to take into consideration, barrel cracks aren't very dangerous. they very rarely lead to catastrophic failure, at most they leak air and you might get a flat tyre over a few days. so before you get too worried, don't. barrel cracks can be welded up, not that i am recommending this, but it's quite common, and if done right are just as strong as new. where cracks in rims get dangerous, is when they are in real load bearing places such as spokes, and mounting disk, these cannot be welded, and are basically write off wheels which are as good as paper weights. barrel cracks are quite common, although less common in good quality wheels, it does happen. i know of a certain tyre shop which has multiple wheels come in per week they sell (cheap crap) that have cracks and bends in them, i know this because i know the dude that gets all their cashie jobs to weld the cracks up lol how you managed to crack it, i dont know. as far as "there was no other evidence of a hit", well wheels, especially good quality wheels, can flex quite an amazing distance, while still bouncing back to original form, and not denting or warping, they flex a small amounts all the time as they are subject to different loads, especially at the barrel. if you hit something big enough, hard enough, with tyres like RE070R RFT's, they are going to keep the solid object you hit off the wheel, and abosrb a bunch of the blunt energy, but a lot of the energy will still make it into the wheel, and deform the wheel quite a lot. this means you may not have say a dent from where the object you have hit, directly hits the wheel, but the wheel will have deformed a long way. if the wheel deforms far enough, the metal will crack, then bounce back into it's original form, or possibly slightly out, showing no evidence of a hit, and leaving a crack in the wheel. btw, so people can visualise what i talk about with how far these wheels can deform, i put a jack inside a R33 GTR wheel, and from the time the jack was touching both sides of the inner barrel, i jacked it up around 3 inches until the jack ran out, the wheel was no longer a circle, it was a proper oval, and when i released it, it went straight back to it's original form, i dont know how far i could have gone, wasnt really keen to find out however lol

im aiming to get there this year with my laurel, cant wait. last year we went in my mates 32 GTR just to spectate as mine had no clutch. wanna get a drive this year.

^^looks like the RB meeting, it's farkin amazing, ill get some pics up at some stage.

yeh that was my main concern with the amount of blow by i was feeling, i have had the dipstick blow out once or twice, but certainly not a regular occurrence. as mentioned the leak down test has shown pretty positive results. so at this point im really not sure. going to chuck a oil cooler on, thinking the oil overheating could be causing some of the results ive been getting, as a minimum it's needed anyway.

yeh it's definitely not a good thing, but it's an RB20 so it's not top priority atm, but it's the kind of thing i should be able to fix by running a full tank of fuel. it's the constant power loss while the engines running smooth that's getting me.

sorry guys, looks like the email notification is f**ked on this site as i didnt get anything telling me there were replies.

lol i know it's blow by, i just wasnt sure how much is considered normal. there is a lot of oil pooling in the in take and i want to get an idea if it's just bad blowby or whether it's oil getting into the compressor housing via f**ked seals. stock Rb20 turbo going back on, currently running rb25 turbo.