Evan_R33

The A/c in my car resets itself whenever yoiu turn the car off.... so it's always the same thing when you start up. or like was said earlier if you switch to feet. It is pretty annoying and i would llike it to go away! As far as pulling the dash out.... that sucks. I'll have to get motivated and look for my self. (same old story, mechanics car is the last to get looked at!) Cheers for the Info guys. now i know where to start looking! -Evan

um. To figure out any gear ratio the formula is: the number of teeth on the driven gear (crown wheel) divided by the number of teeth on the driving gear (pinion) eg: crown wheel 20 teeth, pinion 10.... SO 20 divided by 10 = a ratio of 2:1... easy. Evan

Hey all. Probably heard this before but the search tool is as useless as tits on a bull so i didn't bother. I have this clicking noise behind the dash (S1 33) on start up.. sounds like a shaft popped out or something. Just wondering if anyone has come across this before and what they did to fix it! cos it sh!ts me to tears. cheers Evan

hey guys, tried this question in a different section and searched but both times had no luck! Where can i get good quality body kits in brisbane? i would like veilside, or good copies.. i don't care, but other brands aswell !! any places you can recommend would be appriciated!

Hey all. i tried the search but to no avail so don't bite my head off! But as the topic states where can i pick up good body kits? i'm in brisbane (nth side) but can travel.. Specifically veilside or quality rip offs but any type really, i'm not fussy... cheers guys Evan

Dude don't wanna burst your bubble. But i think you want a bit too much at $19 000. i mean i bought my 1994 GTST about 6 months ago. just a tastefully modified for $15 000!!

Air flow meters (AFM) measure the air entering your engine is mass, same as a Mass airflow meter (MAF). IF this Device does what it says i can't see it being anything but bad for the running of your car; you assume colder air is more dense than hot air so at the same throttle opening you get 'More" air than at hotter temperatures, So if your ECU did adjust fuel to suit the extra air would actually not be there at all, So all you would have is really rich running all the time which is bad. Some dickhead will buy it though!

Hey, I'm too lazy to read this whole post... but the lack of boost in 3rd gear could be you intake pipe to the turbo sucking closed???? maybe sorry if this was already mentioned

to find an air leak buy a can of carby clean and spray around suspect area. when revs pick up you have found you mark......dont use water on things limke manifolds for air leaks.....water doesnt compress like air and has a tendancy to bend bits inside motors if to much goes in......

will sound abit wierd but does it still have the rubber hose leading up to the air filter? i heard in more then a few cases of these sucking closed on boost completely robbing power. if you dont i would suggest a blocked cat convertor or similiar. would be wary of too much boost with this problem as if there is a restriction on the exhaust side of things you are gonna be pushing a lot of heat onto the back of those exhaust valves and may risk a bit of pinging......be careful.

i am gonna say a conclusive no. remember for starters that the rb26dett has things like an inlet air temp sensor that the '20 doesn't then take into consideration even the base maps installed inside the power fc. i have got fc edit and there is screens avail for the 26 that the 20 does not have. i dont reckon i can be done

Yeah what you have circled is the ABS, what you will find as with most modern systems is that it is the module (like computer) and also the hyraulic motor. Look forward to paying top dollar for one of these... it would be unwise to buy second hand because they are a precise peice of gear and internal clearances are extremely tight, so for peace of mind go new.. bummer.

The charcoal canister collects fuel vapour from the fuel tank. it contains a purge valve so when conditions are determined to be right by the ECU (cruise) the purge vlave vents said fumes to the inlet manifold for combustion. And yes it is a emmissions control device and thus illeagal to remove

Always run an Air filter. The number one reason for premature engine wear is Dusting. What is more expensive a good air filther or a rebuild... ? you do the math

if it isn't a blown fuse you will have to check the fan speed resistor. that will probably be your problem. where it is, i don't know. Sorry.

i doubt it will matter. especially since i have heard people say number 6 will lean off?? which one is it!! i really think that it won't matter at all. you will probably benefit from the shorter inlet tract! if you have gotten to this stage of mods i would say you would have aftermarket ecu and also a good dyno session after a mod like that so knock values can be evaluated. But like i said it won't matter!

if the cable is snapped somehwere it could be more difficult than this, but if it has just come away at the handle.. just grab the cable with pliers and pull on it. you could do the same if you can find where the cable is snapped if that is the case. also if it seems hard to 'pop' have someone push down on the front of the bonnet while you pull. p.s make sure you are pulling on the steel cable inside the plastic coating as pulling on the plastic will get you nowhere!

probably fuel.

these are some pics of the C.E.S type. they quote a 25kw gain. I also got it HPC coated. looks awesome...

i agree, split dumps the way to go. I have just installed a C.E.S split dump/front pipe on my 33 and the difference is noticable without getting on the dyno. The idea i guess for those who are a little in the dark about what a split dump does, is that it provides a much clearer path away from the turbo and then re joining the exhaust flow further down.. instead of swirling around directly behind your watstegate then having to flow downwards then back out the dump. So you are most likely to notice the difference when the wastegate is open.... just a little info for ya's

chhers. i give that a look

hey, It is a stipulation of my insurance policy (just cars) that i have an Australian standard 2 point imobiliser fitted to my car... I have had the car for a while now and still haven't had one fitted. Any suggestions of which one is best value for money etc. i am getting a bit worried about the car sitting outside my house unprotected! cheers.

man my mate got his nismo g-max twin plate made up by nicks performance clutches at archerfield in brisbane. He gave him mates rates i guess.. $600. they do good clutches aswell. respected name.

OK first thing i would do is use my EYES... yes that's right. jack it up and have a look. if you suspect turbo problems, oil pissing out of the turbo/everywhere in that are could be a good indication that a seal has blown etc. oir oil line split... If the engine was burning that much oil i'd say it would run like a bag of shit anyway, but you say it is ok..? but if you wanna check the way i have been told by my foreman is ; hold the revs (neutral) at about 3k back off, quickly stab accelerator again.. iff you have blue smoke you have problems, then i would suggest compression check etc. Now i'm no albert einstein but i'd say looking for the leak first would be the best way to go... come on guys.

most modern heads are designed well enough, untill you are at the stage of weening every Kw out of your car.... it's not worth it. spend that money on the cooler. you will see a result.