CATKICKER

Well that makes sence!! grrr Oh well, this works too Car is in getting alignment so will see how it goes! Cheers, Todd

this guy won't pay you... don't waste your time!

wicked... thanks for that mate. I think I may just go the slotted standard sized rotors with good pads and braided lines... is that prics for the lines fitted? I may also look at a brake booster (supports the brake cylinder...) have heard good things about them as far as bake feel goes... more solid ect Thanks again Damo, I will let you know how I go! May be a while as I might need to replace my motor... blowing some smoke P.S. I just got ALL my suspension gear in + my Tomei HICAS lock kit and will be taking it in tomorrow for an alignment... will let you know how that goes too!

DONE!! OK this is what I did... - Unplug the HICAS plug in the engine bay - Strip a section of the wires either side of the center (earth) wire - Plug the plug back in - Start the car - Get someone else under the car ready to slip in the shim (as it will move back in to place in a second or two...) - Touch a wire to the + battery terminal and touch it on the bare wire on one of the stripped wires FOR A SECOND OR TWO... (one is left, the other right) - If you got the correct wire, it shoud have moved and created enough of a gap for your mate to slip the shim in! If you got the worng one, you will need to turn the car off for a sec and try again as it wont work a second time... - Once you have both in, tighten them up, unplug the plug and make sure you connect up the electric module correctly! (I got one wire around the wrong way and my bake lights turned on when ingition was on and the fuel pump when when I put my foot on the brake... - WHOOPS ) Hope that helps! Todd

without investigating myself damo... what is a good option for upgrading rotor size and running spacers, how much am I looking at and what advantage would I have over what you have done? (new pads and slotted rotors - my most likly upgrade) cheers, Todd

ok, $1! + $5 postage

Thanks for that! I will have a look tomorrow and check the wires... I will update when I know how I go! Should be easier!! This should be the best way!! Thanks again!

OK, so I have managed to remove one side but due to how thin the inner bolt bit (on the side I have removed) is the spanner/shifter keeps slipping off (as it only has 2 sides). I put the tie rod back on to put pressue on the spanner to stop it from coming but I have nearly rounded it! Any suggestions? and don't say take it to a shop, I have already thought that! How funny is it when you are under your car thinking I would pay someone $50 to do this but when you have done it you are stoked you have saved yourself $50! ha ha ha Thanks, Todd

Thanks mate, I will go give that a crack!

Anyone?

Hi Guys, I have spend a LONG time tonight trying to get my car into HICAS check mode to be able to insert the second shim from the Tomei HICAS Lock Kit. Is there any suggestions as to why it would be doing this? I have checked the connections in both the boot and in the engine bay and they are fine... The hicas light comes on when the ignition is at the on position (but not started). Is there another way of doing it? If I were to unbolt the rear steering arm from the hub assembly, would that allow enough movement at the required point? Thanks for your help! Todd

that's wicked!! wish I got onto it!!! PLEASE let me know if you get another group buy going, otherwise I may have to look into it myself... Keep the pics coming!

Fair call... Interested though, how much do you get out of adjustable cams without a retune?

Cheers for that! We don't have Dayco down here in Tas so might try a few other places... Todd

Hi Guys, as the topic says, I checked with my local barn and they said their supplier doesn't list one... I know there are other places to check but I thought I would ask. Is the best place Nissan or is there a better/cheaper alternative and if not, how much are they worth? (I am pretty sure they are all the same size, am I correct?) Thanks in advance! Todd

fair bit more... but I suppose you pay when it comes to REAL performance!

I want to see some pics!! Please

I am interested too... where could I take it that won't try and sting me for a small job?

What does the n1 pump do that a standard pump doesn't?

hey Damo, I have done this myself. The VL - RB30 - Pump fits straight on... I got mine real cheap, contact the barn. should be around $50. If you get to doing that depending on your k's (low from memory) I would look at doing your timing belt (it has to come off anyway) and when you do your belt it is best to do your pulleys (idler and tensioner, $400 from Nissan, $90 from NSK) if you want some more help / advice, let me know! Todd

Love it! and thanks for the write up, always good to know I am not the only one that has probles with performance cars... Love to see it around! Welcome to SAU!

100?

how much are your after for the afm? is it in perfect working order? How many k's has it done? I am thinking $50 shipped... what do you think?

$100 for the speedo? $10 for oil pressuer sensor? $50 Air Flow Meter? I am sure I will think of more... Pm me if interested... Thanks!

Hi Guys, I have the following for sale... US Audio Xtreme Competition 5 Channel Amp 1100 watts, run your whole system from one amp! Came with car, played fine, comes as is - $120 Reply, PM or phone/SMS me on 0400 113 776 if you want more info or want to organise to collect. Todd