SKY 34

how does Bee*R damages the piston rings...it cuts spark..so no detonation in the cylinder for that cycle... instead fuel sparks at manifold, no?

I spoken to garage owner..he ruled out e-manage both the ultimate and the normal one...he said it only alters signal in comp..not a real computer..sumthing like that...anyone care to explain e-manage limitations? cheers

huumm okay umm please confirm this statement.. the Bee*r rev limmiter cuts the eart so random spark drops out..fuel goes out cylinder ignite and kaboom through exhaust turbine and cat... there are 2 triggers one is the red line and the other is either handbrake or clutch.... so if I hit redline it went kaboom booom boom.. If I connect to handbrake, the moment the handbrake is lifted during driving..also kaboom boom boom.. if connected to clutch only when sudden clutch release at launch, launch control? went kaboom boom boom... downside, damages everything in the flame's path....However this system shouldn't be too damaging unless one were to do launches and red lines everyday? cheers

hi guys... I pre-ordered a V500 plug in for GTT to realise that it cannot be ready in time for mods.... so I'm left with a few options here. all of which uses piggy back comp...the TCS is already disconnected, so won't have problems with lights lighting up.. anyways what are the advantages and disadvantages for piggyback comp.. the ECU will be required to -run up to 500rwhp map -run aftermarket fuel system -control the NVCS -run MAP here's the option.. -v500 the non plug in version. Piggy back -new Greddy ultimate Piggy back -Haltech Piggy Back -Motec M48 stand alone -HKS F-con thanks

umm they don't look like TE37 to me 2

Roaaaaaaaaaaar

huumm actually this happens to my car as well now...but more severe, it's getting very consistent...on my post ppl suggest intercooler pipe leak, clean afm..I clean the afm still same thing happened...checking in workshop on Monday...I'll keep you posted...do tell me if you figure out what is wrong as well

lol my friend got gyped by the pakaging of this $20 wiper "high silicon content" it's clear look like those silicon glue....he put it on, squeaked like mad...laughing my arse off I think it's really a dried up moulded silicon glue

pIAA ones are very good, they'll give you a silicon window wipe.....water will just slide up the glass when driving, don't even need the wiper switched on...but each wiper cost $65

so is that those indented shape at the sides of the pistons? Aorry, the kit is actually Tomei.. there is a $1k price difference between the normal and hte cooling channel one....do you think it's worth the money... How bout CP kits? anyone know how big cc after bore? cheers

don't need a clutch yet..standard clutch will hold...

hehe I want to go!! I hate it when ppl sneak behind my back and repetitively shoot me...happened once..was so pissed...keep pressing the trigger the thing keeps pounding my head...damn adrinalin

I was thinking about power and torque differnece as well but I don't believe it myselft....the gap between the sizes is 0.5mm, I don't think there'll be much difference... the kit alone cost $7.5 k but these are Jun so kinda expected....I think fitting and bore from 6-7k.. I have not done this yet, collecting info...there is the cheaper option of using CP or arias stuff...I think those cost about $5k includes N1 oil pump head studs... I'm going to stick with RB25 no particular reason actually just personally think there's more work involved, more challenging...

I heard of using 2 boot solenoid, one to pull the plates down the other to pull it up. Since cameras here take front photos only...

loss of horsepower...lol spend $100 to loose hp~~

doing research for rebuild atm, I found tomei stroker kit, but don't really understand what they are asking if anyone can explain.. the kit includes - Forged 8 counter crankshaft - Forged piston kit - Forged H section connecting rod - Oil Jet Spacer here are the options I don't get option between -Bore 86.5mm -Bore 87mm -Bore 87.5mm -cooling channel Bore 86.5mm -cooling channel Bore 87mm -cooling channel Bore 87.5mm -RB 28 titanium coat (top ring) what is a cooling channel? I thought in Engineering shop the engine block is bore into the diameter of the piston? They number the piston for the specific cylinder for accuracy? so what's the point of choosing bore diameter? more torque?

I mantained the car well service every 5k, but previous owned has not been that good, there was scales collected in radiator and I had to replace whole radiator. Mechanics said may be an indication of corroded head gasket.... however run the test you guys mentioned, oil's looking normal and no bubbles coming out of radiator...although I find the radiator test a bit stupid, the moment the engine is on longer than a few minutes, the coolant start spewing out....but for the few seconds it was on, no bubbles I've got a major service in a weeks time, I'll probably find out then....given me a bit of hope here~~ cheers

hi guys, about a week ago my car start jerking between 2-3k rpm. My sister first spotted the problem, but when I drive it, nothing happens. a week later I start feeling the jerk and this time it is more consistent. The idle has become rough as well...soft idling and suddenly few poping sound like missfiring with large enough force to be felt by the driver. My initial reaction is it's an afm problem. Whip out contact cleaner clean the afm (mesh intact, perfect condition). The jerking got better, but still there...a day later the jerking got relatively bad again..... Also when on boost usually at 0.4-0.5bar there's be a jerk and continues going up until 0.7-0.8 bar. The boost controler I used is profac B spec II. I had a power Fc once fitted tuned to run 0.9bar. However since then the pfc is removed and the profac hasn't been set, it's been boost creeping randomly from 0.6 - 0.8 bar... Also I need to mention that there is a loss in coolant level since I last check about 3 months ago. The level is 3/4 that of the maximum level. so my next diagnostic is a leak in the head gasket. I don't know much about symptoms for leak gasket. All I know coolant level will drop and white smoke will puff out. So far no white smokes, just the drop in coolant level, however I think that can also be attributed to evaporation? anyone have this problem please share cheers

hi, anyones got Blitz Sonic air filter, need them within 7 days time. Also I need the inlet to be 4" or 100mm

aww now only be left with IKYLNE

hi, anyone has info on these seats, very confusing they look so similar and the type of rails they require these are types of rails nd description I can get on Nengun. Which ones will suit R34? FG - It is only applicable to vehicles that are capable of handling a ultra super-low positioned eail. FO - Not all seat rails are super-low positioned, it depends on the type of vehicle. (ALL full-bucket seat models FX - It is only applicable to vehicles that are capable of hundling a ultra super-low positioned eail. (ALL full-bucket seat models) LF - Super low position (maximum of -80mm) - This rail can only be used with MAXIS3, VIOS3 LR - The Bride LR Type Low Max seat rails are suitable for the Gias and Stradia. Mo - Not all seat rails are super-low positioned, it depends on the type of vehicle. (BRIX,ERGO,REVS,XAX) Ro - Not all seat rails are super-low positioned, it depends on the type of vehicle. (PROS,BRIXll,ERGOll) Please inform us of which vehicle the seat rails are for and which side. Left or Right. according to the side, R34 will have difficulty with low cushion seats..

they just sound nice =) so many cars with GT on it, or S or R...there are 26 alphabets come on.. should make a car, type Z or sumthing that sounded cool~~

ohh the one not selling at 5k ~~

I wrap a condom around my CPU

I think it's wound back, Japanese has mountain roads as well remember~~ there is no way for such low milage over so long time for all of their cars...my timing belt starts cracking when the millage is only 30 000, I changed them straight..don't want to risk