GTsauRus

Thanx for the replies 6 clean shiny r34 injectors are now on there way from japan to my house I love the smell of optimax in the morning NOT. btw r34 injectors list as an alternate part for an r32 in nissan fast, i found it after my original post.

hi ppl I found some r34gtr stock injectors to replace my leaking r32 gtr injectors. From the pics they look the same except the body is silver not black and they have the yellow tops and quoted as 444cc does anyone know if they are a direct replacement?? thanks

hi Do you have the airbox?

I have run my gtr at 0.8 bar since september decided to give higher boost a run 1.2 bar and got bad missing then replaced denso irridiums @ 0.9mm with ngk irridiums pre gapped to 1.1mm and it started missing at 0.8 bar Hmmmm. Found this topic decided to clean all the coils and stretch the carbon contact springs and put permatex ultra blue silicon around the bottom of the coils, it looked to me like the coils had been tracking from where the rubber boot slips on due to a build up of engine bay grime. So now it runs clean at 1.2 bar Got low boost set back at 0.8 for daily driving Thanks all for the info

hi mozzilla carnt find your web site to read your club rules document I used the link from yr sticky membership faq wats up? keith

hi chris Did u get my pm?? keith

I made a slight error there, the offset is the difference between the 2 measurements then divide by 2, sorry. cheers Keith

hi what is the thickness of the rotors please

theres an easy way to measure the offset get a straight edge at least 20'' long [a brickies level is perfect] lay it across the rim at the back and measure the distance to the back of the mounting flange then lay it across the front of the rim and measure the distance to the back of the mounting flange, the difference between the 2 measurements is the offset, you can get a close enough measurement even if the tyres are mounted and the straight edge lays on the tyre

Hi Chris Still waiting for the offsets are the wheels still for sale? will transfer the $$ to your account today if you are selling.

I had to make one to get mine complied with M's pods I insulated with neoprene sheet rubber glued inside I wanna make a full arc style box with a high flow panel filter but its a lot of time and effort but we just got a new guillotine and bender at work so im keen to test em out.

Chris U got a PM

hi do the rims have any flat spots or bad chunks missing from the edges looks like they have some gutter rash have u got a closeup of the worst damage what is the offset please I like these sparcos my car had them in 18s but wrong offset I am keen for these if the offset is suitable and the damage is repairable.

4 take the under dash panel off and you will see a bunch of 5 heavy wires coming from the ignition switch, follow them only 200mm you will find the 6 pin connector. 7:on the gtr its fuse 7 ign. 9: in the boot looking too the front of the car there are 2metal boxes attached up under the parcel shelf the left one with 3 or 4 electrical plugs is the ATTESA ecu the smaller one on the right with 1 electrical plug is the Hicas ecu, the plug is towards the front of the car you have to push a plastic release on the top of the plug to get it out I got full inside the boot to get mine out ,it wasnt easy. Good Luck

yep the palmIII is a bit pov lol, wot pocket pc have u seen for around $100 that will run your sw. cheers Keith

thnx yep its ok now maybe earlier it was mia

looks like the link to ecutalk.com she is brocken

hi newkleer hey it would be nice ifit was programmed in java so it would run on my old palmIIIe that has j2me support and a rs232 port that plugs into the plms cable.

hi my bike is a ducati 900ss it has a glass window in the engine side cover to check oil level, when i do short runs to work only and no long runs where the engine gets to fully heat up I get a white milky sludge in the window and it makes it hard too see the oil level but give it a long run of over 100kms and the window clears up so condensation inside petrol engines is very common especially if you only do short runs.

hi fixed the same problem on my 32 gtr it would do it while driving too, it turned out to be electrical connections for the hicas ecu power. It got a bit better with full charged new battery but was still intermittant. The bang noise is hydraulic hammer in the power steer oil cooler when the power steer solenoid is switching off and back on because low voltage at the hicas ecu is making it reset, to prove it is the problem you read the hicas ecu error codes after the hicas light has been on but there will be no error because a reset doesnt log an error, all other things that cause the light to come on (except low oil level) will put an error code in the memory.unplug the oil level switch to make sure it is not turning the light on, but any way it dont make the hydrailic hammer just the light only. THE FIX lots of connections between the battery and hicas ecu cause voltage drop. pull apart all connectors and spray lanox( a cleaner lubricant containg lanolin to protect the connections) Connections 1:connector plug at the battery terminal 2: Fusible links in the box in engine bay behind battery 3:connector plugs below the box in the engine bay 4:ignition switch connetor plug 5:turbo timer harness connector plug(if you got one) 7: fuse under dash 8:main harness to to rear harness connector behind the right kick panel(i didnt do this one) 9:connector plug at the the hicas ecu. had no hicas light or hammer since doing the fix

hi I had the exact same happen after a flat battery, i have an early Blitz tt01 timer, I used a bit of science to fix it (no nuts) The main chip is a micropeocessor with on board memory , I googled up the part number of the chip to get the chip pinouts and shorted the vss pin [+5 volts] to the reset pin that fixed it. the chip is a microprocessor with onboard memory so probly corrupted its memory when the voltage went low from the flat battery.

hi one of the air bleed nipples for the attesa is above there, if you have lost all your attesa fluid you will have a rwd car so in the wet she wont handle so good. the attesa pump is up there above the diff too

hi i can answer the low voltage question, i had intermittant problems with the hicas light flashing on and losing ps but there was never any erorr code in the hicas ecu. the hicas power goes through lots of connections 1: plug at battery terminal 2: fusible link in engine bay box 3: plug near fusible link box 4: ignition switch connector 5: turbo timer connector (if you have one) 6: fuse under dash 7: main harness to rear body harness connector 8: plug at hicas ecu. The light flashing is the hicas ecu resarting after a low voltage reset, I fixed it by disconnecting and spraying lanox on all the connections above.

hi ebola if u look at the varous wiring drawings needed to get the big picture all of the ecu's are connected in parrallel on the ddl bus this is why they respond to a different id byte ,engine hex ef, hicas e4, aircon hmm forgot that one but a4 i think, Also you can only address one at one time, they are all ecu's separately and linked by the ddl, I read that the eccu sends the rpm to the hicas ecu over the bus ! btw the attessa is not connected to the ddl so the attesa g sensors are not accessible Keith

hi NewKleer can u post the scantech nissan link if it is a demo or free thanx keith