No Crust Racing

That I'm not sure of actually but would be discussed with potential candidates who have the experience and would like to move if need be Terry has the figures as it's his team. That said though, for a regional area where the cost of living is quite good, my pay is quite comfortable and I was a similar role before moving into middle management.

Share this around if you like, located in Albury NSW and yes I'd be on the interview panel. http://www.seek.com.au/Job/senior-engineer/in/albury-wodonga-murray-albury-wodonga-murray/21503482

Random question but did this sell to a guy in Albury Wodonga? Could've sworn I saw this car behind me on the way home last night, almost rear ended the guy in front a few times trying to gawk at it.

Pm sent

I actually thought about that, and the pic is deceiving in that way. If you were looking from side on, as in from the quarter panel side, the core is actually angled down and away from the cooler piping, so it sits behind it quite notably. So I was comfortable enough with the idea that the air flow over the pipe and core would not allow the heat to soak forward into the piping. Hence the venting to ensure we had good flow across the core, plus the bonus of it going over the IC piping also. If you know S13 front ends, and take note of where the brackets are, you can see the top bracket sits behind the headlight, but the bottom bracket is attached to part of the chassis rail. The two mounting points are offset to each other by about 25 degrees so the whole thing sits on an angle sloping towards the rear of the car from top to bottom, behind the IC piping, albeit off to the side of it anyway. Though I don't have any inlet air temp sensor to confirm, I've never noticed it suffer from heat soak and lose power in the same way that I have felt that happen with an un-shielded pod sitting in traffic on a hot summers day then trying to boot it. If there's any difference, at all from before and after, I would say it's negligible at best - especially at track speeds with so much air flowing over the whole setup. Edit: Just to add, the washer bottle seen in the core mounting pic is also now gone for better flow out of the inner guard area.

Cheers guys, but in all seriousness mine is a really hack budget setup. Take a look in some of the build threads for ideas on how to make the setup look really pro and avoid some of the potential risks of my setup, leaks/heat etc. Some of the guys on here are Wizards with time and money to spend. Good luck in your setup

I think you misread, I did not say tape Mate had some special goo shit, which we put on the very last rung of the barbed fittings, hose clamp sits before that - It's just insurance. As I said, I check it before and after each track day and/or session if I'm curb hopping, no leaks yet.

Eeek I can't remember what my GT-R ran filter numbers wise, I've got my kit on a CA S13 at present so it's just using the generic Z145A Filter, only does 3-500k's before being replaced and it's a 145k kilometer engine anyway so no need for super duper brand name filter for me. Here's a pic of the kit before the cooler went in, and before the battery got relocated, washer bottle removed, cooler piping painted etc. Let me know if you can't see it as I'm not sure if my FB privacy settings are right. http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=106848374837&set=a.95935039837.108726.753524837&type=3 Then here's a pic of the el-cheapo just-jap core I used, tiny one for tiny engine and low power. http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=129751174837&set=a.95935039837.108726.753524837&type=3 The Thermostat, no pic sorry, is no sitting under the cooler piping and is just cable tied to a bracket there. I also did this on both sides, one to feed the oil cooler and the other for the CAI for the Pod, I also have the pickup for my brake ducts coming from there also. And if it isn't already, slot the inside of the guard plastic behind the cooler core or else air will never flow through it properly. http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=129751164837&set=a.95935039837.108726.753524837&type=3&permPage=1 If you can, do the whole thing in braided lines with sexy fittings. I didn't have any spare lines on hand for the core install but had suitable hose and very high quality fittings and hose clamps. Everyone said it would leak, but it's done 3000k's so far and has bounced of countless ripple strips without any issues. Thread sealant and good hose clamps do wonders.

That's fine with me, I'd rather the peak temp reading be higher than lower, no harm in backing off sooner. That said, if you've seen the GREX kit, it's a pretty slick bit of gear, I'd be very surprised if there's so much as 5deg variance from the "real" temp taking heat soak into account. Bottom line for me, makes much more sense to get my reading there than the sump.

Kez: No effing way 0_0 Nick: Those two look interesting, might be time to get into a gym at some stage and try out a rack.

I've not used either so can't comment on those units specifically. All I could say is perhaps check how easy it will be to plumb it into your existing system in terms of fitting style/size. Best to try and avoid needing Enzed to give you -AN conversion fittings or the like if possible. As for the senders, My GREX plate had plenty of ports for those, I've got an oil temp and pressure sender on it and have not had any issues, nice to know you're picking up the oil temp the instant it leaves the engine too, at it's hottest (peak), rather than from the sump where it's more like an average temp like many others seem to do.

It's not a bad idea for a street car making decent power, but more so if you enjoy the occasional spirited drive. Cheap insurance really and the relocator is the best service device invented Same here for oil temp, can go for a good flog and do some tuning/testing and not see oil go above 70-75 degrees, need sustained hot laps for it climb beyond that. That comes down to other things though too, how much power, how efficient the rest of the cooling system is, ambient temps etc.

I have that exact setup on my car and bought this thermostat as it was on sale at the time so pretty cheap. http://www.revolutionracegear.com.au/index.php?PCID=10560&PSO=245&PSID=3105331758&PSV=Primary&CDO= That was when I was still driving the car on the street, without it, oil temps would take far too long to come up which is not something you want. I believe those thermostats open around 77 degrees or so, though there is always around 10% flow going to the core to keep pressures even and to avoid having big temp differences when flow directions change. You can get away without one on a dedicated track car but I'd say it's a must for a street car, especially if you live anywhere in Aus that encoutners some of the colder climates like I do (Vic) Very easy to plumb in, make sure you pay attention to the in/out ports.

All feedback appreciated when you're a goomba like me

I'll have a look at home, I have a straight bar but it's my bench bar so I don't really want to be pulling plates of it every time. Could look around for a cheapo second one, will see what I think of the exercise after watching those clips before I decide if my elbow can deal with it.

Yeah I'd like to do some chins if I had something around to do them on, our pergola is about about 3-4ft above my outstretched hands and is 100mm steel so getting up there and holding on isn't easy. I only have small girly IT hands. I can handle ezy bar curls for now, but barbell curls used to kill it, it's the rotation of the wrist/forearm that pulls which is why the shoulder press with close grip murders me.

God that music is shit =\ Regarding that front squat portion, I find that very hard on my elbow, it might be that I'm using an ezy bar but it kills my elbow, I also can't should press the same weight I squat with, perhaps my shoulders are woefully underpowered, my technique is very wrong, or using the ezy bar plus my elbow is the issue not sure. I find that when I attempt a should press, using the ezy bar, I have to take a much wider grip than any clip I've seen, having my hands that close together absolutely kills my bad elbow.

At the moment I use approx 60 second break for bench, curls (more for elbow than anything), squats, dead lifts, and 30secs for dips, BB rows, and ab work so that sounds fine enough for now. Also I can imagine longer squat/DL breaks needed if I actually had any weight on the bar

Of the track days I've done in the 13, I can think of maybe one R34 GT-R there, and he wasn't exactly chatty. I swear some people think that a basic timed track day is the Bathurst 1000. Keeping specs and parts secret... I mean wtf? Naturally I'd be having a chat with Thompson as I know he and the boys know their shit. Just interested to know of anything that is going to really hurt the car in track conditions.

Good to know Ash, wasn't sure if the above was overkill on an unopened motor and if it was the stuff you do during a build or not. I've read a number of threads on how the R34s in particular suffer from higher coolant temps, It seems leaving the factory cooler core in place is a good way to try and avoid this but are there any other common trends for cars that see light track work? I'll assume it's going to eat pads/rotors/tyres/fuel pretty ferociously too.

Hmm, 70kg is still 30kg off where I used to be but as I said I'd always gone OK on the bench, I'll be happy if I can just get back to benching my body weight as for some stupid reason that always seemed like a good goal to me. Good idea about the rack testing, I might try and find a quiet Gym and go with a mate who's had a play before, I'm very pro train solo where possible and I'm self concious enough to not really want to be seen in a Gym struggling with really low weight while everyone around me crunches out big numbers. LOL @ DECA, you know me, it's a social event only for me as the driving component is too small to justify the cost so I try and get to a couple each year when I can afford spending $100 on accommodation and another couple hundred on dinner/drinks/fuel. I'm gonna have to come soon though to see how huge you are, make sure you wear a tight shirt hot stuff Forgot to ask, what rest period are other using between sets? Mine varies from 30-60secs depending on the exercise.

It has to be a 34, otherwise I will always be left wanting one and it will likely be the last performance car I buy. It will still be street reg'd, far from dedicated track car. As mentioned I'd only be doing 2-5 track days a year tops. The rest of the time it would be a weekender only as I'm happier driving a comfy car for a daily. Cheers for the feedback on the oil control.

As many of you will know, I plan to get back into a GT-R in the future and while I realise the 33, which I had, is a better bang for buck solution, I've always wanted a 34 from a purely aesthetic point of view. Initially I was thinking keep the S13, take the road reg off which allows me to go a bit further with mods and use that as my track hack as it doesn't really cost much to fix and I'm not too stressed about bashing up the car. Plus I will definitely not see 50% of the money back that's gone into it, and it's a bloody cheap backyard build. That said, common sense tells me that it's a bit costly to have a daily, a dedicated track S13 AND a GT-R which would, in that line-up, be more of a weekend car. So my train of thought leads me to ask, if I'd only be tracking the car 2-5 times a year tops, I'm not in competition and I don't tend to drive at 10/10ths anyway, perhaps when it comes time I should just ditch the Sil and track the 34. As I'd always intended to go 300-330awkw (until the stock motor goes) I realise it's already a fairly costly exercise but I'm wondering if there's anything specific I should be concerned about if I intend to track a little bit. I'd fit an oil cooler, ducting, relocator, brake ducts, and a good radiator as I have on the S13 and I'd need a second set of rims and tyres for sure, but otherwise is there anything else I should worry about? I'm thinking sump and cam cover baffles, external oil return and restrictor for the head, diff/trans coolers etc. Things that the S13 doesn't need as it's so light and underpowered but that a heavier more powerful GT-R might require. Having these things in mind affects the direction I take with my savings, what I do with the S13, and the timeline for getting my 34 (Got a mortgage etc). Thread can be moved if appropriate, but my last related thread (Definitive Guide to Building 300-33kw GT-R) seemed happy enough here.

Quick update. After 2 weekends in a row of spending countless hours cutting, buffing and polishing the cars (missus got a new rig recently that had spent a lot of time being cleaned with a bloody car wash brush i think, yuck) my shoulders have been wrecked so I had avoided the shoulder press exercise as it was killing me, I still have a twinge in the left shoulder. Anyway, had a fiddle with a few numbers as some things felt more natural etc, small update but an update none the less. Upped Bench to 3x 10 @ 70kg, Completing this but actually having to have a decent go to get the last few reps of the third set, so I'd say I'm now into where I'd be building the chest if I went much further, I'll sit here for a bit until some other things catch up a touch. Crunches as per usual Upped Ezy Bar curls to 3x 10 @ 32kg, completing this but as above last few reps on the third set I'm having to work for, sitting at this weight for a bit while Elbow becomes comfy there. Upped Ezy bar squat to 3x10 reps @ approx 44.x kg, legs are quite happy with that but it's the cleaning motion needed to get it up and over and then back off that's the hard part (yeah i know i need a rack). Plus with my left shoulder being so sore of late it's been hard to do this smoothly, worked out I can at least "bounce" the bar off my sholders to remove it more easily. Scissors as per usual Cheater spa dips as per usual 3x 35 reps. Have been feeling more comfortable with STDL and had the missus come and spot me to check my back is straight, was happy enough to just try the squat weigh of 44kg+ completing th 3x 10 reps reasonably comfortably, I think shoulder/grip/back strength is more of an issue than legs on this motion, I feel I could add a few more kg's on this one pretty easily and will slowly add weight as I like to only add small amounts at a time then stick to it for a week or two so the rest of the body can adjust (secondary muscles etc). Big difference from the 25kg I started with. Have skipped shoulder press for the last 2 weeks, had a go at one set last night at 25kg and it felt "ok" but not awesome for the sore shoulder. Upped Barbell to 3x 10 reps at the Curl weight of 32kg completing this and starting to feel it in the last few reps but not too bad, could go more but again taking it slowly, had missus spot me for back straightness. Interestingly, I actually feel like my shoulders are already rotating back a bit and the missus confirms I look less "hunched". And yes, I know my numbers are shit but all in all some good news so far.

Auction ends tomorrow a bit after 8pm, looks like it'll be a bargain buy for someone at this stage.