No Crust Racing

It's been suggested that it might be better to just use them as they are and not decrease the strength of the rotor any more by slotting it again, any ideas on what performance loss I might see from running non slotted rotors? I am planning on running brake ducts from the front of the car.

Hi guys, Car is S13 with S15 slotted vented rotors and S15 calipers + R32 GT-R master cylinder - car is track oriented. Used up the last set of pads so got some new ones and dropped rotors off to be machined. They were heavily grooved but the brake shop said no worries as they were still above minimum thickness, he did mention I might need to have an engineering place touch up one or two slots as the driver side inner was a bit wiped. The below pic is what I ended up with. As you can see there's still a very notable groove on the outer edge and the slots are baically gone, this is the "good" one in that it still has "some" slots visible. He didn't charge me but said to go deep enough to get the groove out would have gone below minimum thickness and that at the moment I can just re-slot them and get another few thousand k's out of them. He didn't seem concerned about the groove and said they end up with that sort of thing on street cars all the times. What are your thoughts Brake Gurus? Excuse photo, only have iPhone 3Gs on me at the moment. Cheers

Confirmed they are getting through.

You know it!

I've resorted to harassing some poor guy in the for sale section who has a car sales ad up, followed up with a nice PM and a free bump for his ad lol

Great looking car mate, looks to be in great condition and well priced. Free Bump

It says this car is no longer available for sale =\

Just link me to the ad Terry and I'll inquire using the sidebar, then let me know if the email turns up on your end.

Is anyone listing a car for sale at the moment? I'd like to test if my email inquiries are getting through as I've phoned a few people after not receiving any answer to my email only to have them tell me they never received it. Good chance for a free plug for your car.

OK don't shoot me for using the wrong term slides/guides whatever But there are locating pins for the pads in 4 piston calipers, if these are catching the pad it could be dragging is all I'm suggesting. These are what I mean. I didn't do anything with those or clean them up when the new pads went in. http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/uploads/monthly_05_2010/post-40659-12733200885677_thumb.jpg I'll call some local engineers and see what I can do, looks like if it happens then I won't be getting another machine out of these rotors but given I'm using a harder comp pad on a soft, street spec rotor i'll be happy to get 4-5000ks out of them. Anyone else wanna wade in on this?

Thanks mate, all sorted

Cheers for the feedback. To answer some of your qestions/respond to your points.. - I just realised that when I put those calipers on (yes 4 pot s15 calipers also) that I did not lubricate the slides so I will do that as a first step. - Boots look good and it's no using fluid so no leaks anywhere, I'll hold off on a rebuild unless this issue gets worse/doesn't go away. - Do you know if a rotor can actually be re-slotted in that way? I'm assuming it just comes down to whether or not there's minimum thickness in it but the brake shop guy was reluctant to do it saying go to an engineering place instead. - I'll be putting in some ducts to aid cooling.

Car is S13, running S15 280mm slotted/vented RDA rotors up front with QFM A1RM pads and TRW 600 fluid home track is Winton which is primarily right turns. Pads were gone after 2500ks so getting some new ones and pulled rotors to get them machined. Noted that the driver side rotor has had a harder life and in particular the inner side has really copped it. So first question, is this just due to the circuit? Wheel bearings look OK on both sides. Other thing to note is the driver side wheel arch has the oil cooler in front of it and I slotted the inner guard so air can flow through properly, would the increased heat be an issue? I thought about pad drag, but the car isn't pulling to one side. Now, the next question is it possible/safe to have the slots re-grooved in the rotor, Brake shop said there's enough meet on the pad to machine them but the slots on the inner driver side would be almost gone at that point. Is it just time for new rotors? Cheers guys

I'd rather stick with something that has copious local support for a daily. After having had a GTST and a GT-R as daily drives I know how annoying it can be when it comes time to get some simple things done or get parts quickly when needed. In the case of the V35, for no real perceivable gain that I can see, plus in my opinion they are quite fugly

Yeah Supra driving Steve, back in your box (I even went to eBay UK specifically and tried before making the above comment).

I know, my point was that was the closest match.

No luck with that Seller name? There is a Torques listed in the US but nothing for sale.

Cheers, sent email to both.

I'd looked at that site so good to hear feedback about it. Cheers

I should clarify, i don't mean Clints Crazy Bargains fittings, i just mean an alternate source to Pirtek/Enzed locally who seem to want to charge a bunch. All I'm doing is a fitting a bigger turbo a track based S13 with a CA in it, it's budget racing

Where are you guys sourcing turbo fittings from, the local Enzed what rediculous dollars for what seem to be basic fittings. I need a 4AN to 14mm banjo and a 4AN to 14mm straight through. Are there any cheap places online besides eBay?

They seem to hold value well from what I'm seeing Terry, I think some of that is that they don't push fleet and that they are a relatively new family of car compared to some others. 350GT will be out of the price range, Accords are a maybe, we're going for a look this weekend so she can drive a few and we can check out boot space. The car would be with us long enough that prams might be a consideration, though we've discussed that she could drive my falcon and I could drive the smaller car to work if boot space was an issue.

As the devout Nissan lover I am i had considered an N16 but the missus doesn't like it and it's a bit smaller than a Mazda6. A mate of mine has one and her prtner is always complaining about how shit it is, 65,000ks and using oil like it's got 265,000ks, I doubt that's normal though but still surprised me as I've got a CA powered S13 track car and it takes a beating and keeps asking for more. Other things I'm considering are 07 plated Camry's the newer shape, anyone had anything to do with those? Toyota land scares me for parts though, is that a justified reaction?

Cheers for the feedback. What sort of fuel economy do you get and what type of driving do you do? Is your's the 4 or 6 cylinder?

Morning gents, The missus is looking to switch jobs and if it goes ahead she'll lose her new Mazda3 company car so we've been looking around at mid size cars up to 10k. Initially we were going to go with a Mazda 6 as we've had 2 company Mazda3s and they have been excellent little cars. Something like this. http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/mazda-6-2003-11728709?cr=0&eapi=2&page=1&silo=Stock&sort=~Price&Range=Price:Min,Max~1|Mileage:Min,100000&__N=1216%201246%201247%201252%201282%204294965340%204294961345&vertical=Car&distance=25 But in my searching I came across the last model of the Vectra (the Opel one) before they brought in the Daewoo based Epica. The below as an example. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2006-Holden-Vectra-ZC-MY05-Upgrade-CDX-Silver-5sp-Hatchback-/270818490136?pt=AU_Cars&hash=item3f0e0a3718#ht_2317wt_1346 My question is, who here owns/drives either of those and what do you think? The missus leans towards the Vectra because it's newer (so more info on that would be great) but I'm a bit concerned about V6 FWD and the amount of Electrics the Vectra has being a Euro car and top of its range here. I can't imagine it'd be cheap to get parts for, but I also know that Mazda parts aren't cheap. My background in service and repair is mostly Turbo Nissan's or newer Falcons but I'm sure I can handle the vast majority of any service/repair items we might have with either car so labour shouldn't be an issue for the most part. I note that both cars also list premium unleaded as a requirement, but given the cost difference I'm happy to sacrifice a few killer wasps to run standard unleaded. Thoughts?