No Crust Racing

This. Don't get me wrong, I'm as one-eyed as a lot of the other Webber supporters but when Alonso leaves the pits with only 100 or so degrees in his rubber (is that about what they hold in the warmers?) You can forgive the guy for being a little bit timid. However, what was his excuse throughout the rest of the race? Was it just me or did Alonso seem far too polite during some of the overtaking he was subjected to. I'm no Ferrari fan, but I do like to see the guys squabble over position a bit. DRS made it far too easy. Can't say I'm a real big fan of it in general. I wonder how different the results might have been had Button started from a decent position and Webber got off the line cleanly (among many other things). GOD I love watching Spa.

With about $10 in parts from Bunnings I finished off the battery relocation by connecting up a remote pull for the isolator switch. It comes up through the hole where the Aerial used to be. I've placed the battery triangle stickers accordingly. Just got some stainless steel cable, a crimp for the end to stop it slipping out of the isolator key, some bits for the pull end so it basically has this sticking out of the Aerial hole. (not my pic) http://triaking.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/steeringcable1-150x150.jpg I imagine it might need to be red or something for proper racing series but I think having the triangle stickers is enough for the track days I do.

Yep yep, remember it's 100mm at the lowest point, If they wanna be nasty about it.

An update to this. I've since bought and fitted and AEM wideband so now I can just road tune the car myself, unsurprisingly it's a little rich down low and by a little, i mean a heap - richer than 10:1 - and then it's a touch lean up top nipping at 13:1 so I'll bring that back to around 12.5 and dial out some fuel down low. Should be apples EDIT: Forgot I'd already been a good boy and updated about the O2, woops.

Pretyty much, you just undo the locking nut, with the c-spanner, then rotate the whole assembly until you have either less thread visible on the shock body (lower) or more (higher) and measure the difference. Easy peasy.

It's still gotta be jacked up, but you don't have to remove the shock, you just take a measurement sitting on ground, wind in or out how much extra you want on the shock body then put the wheel back on and take it off the stands. You can adjust the camber yourself but unless you have experience doing your own alignments at home (string line etc)you'll just be guessing. Best to have that done by someone else, you can put the stock eccentric bushes at the same "point" in rotation but that doesn't account for anything that might be slightly bent on the car and beleive me it's more common than you think to have a .5 degree bend in the wheel hub carrier that throws everything out.

+1 on taking action +1 more on the setup, the rear will want to be a bit softer if you want grip, too many guys set the car too firm and wonder why she behaves like a drift car all the time. The spring rates in these are plenty firm already (8/6) so no need for high dampening. set it soft and it will hook up much nicer. Unless of course you like some sideways action

I weighed all my components (including cable) and saved less than 1KG over the big old battery it had up front. For me it was more so about moving a few KGs to the back of the car where the S13 is really lacking for weight. If it was a drift machine I wouldn't have bothered but I want it to grip not slide. Removing all the AC was a bit more useful though as approx 14kg of the 17kg total that came out was forward of the front axle.

Darkside: Came across this earlier lol

If you've driven on them they are settled enough. Changing height is super easy (just requires a wheel off). The instructions will tell you how to do it(or get your suspension place to do it). Make sure you bring the C-Spanner along. Good job on installing yourself, saved yourself a couple dollars.

Interesting thoughts about the voltage drop Benny. If you read up, mine dropped SFA but I did use decent gauge wire.

Yeah and look what happened to him =\

I reckon this is the best thing to do sometimes. Which is hard, because the stock rims aren't that flash and don't allow for very big rubber. I honestly think if there were easier access to places where people could hoon (drift, drag, burnout etc) that didn't cost a fortune more people would take it off the street. The problem is insurance for the venue, having people sign liability waivers doesn't seem to be enough anymore. People are too quick to point the finger at somebody else for their own stupidity.

OK Cheers for that, I might just go get some cable and hook up that remote pull so it's done then bang some stickers on it. Love this typo Baron, not hard to see where your heads at

Vic and NSW are pretty tough. The things people get defected for here are ridiculous. It's just not worth risking it. If you drive anything modified (import or not) you are treated like a criminal. I'm almost 30, work in a white collar job, well spoken and always polite to police (full license too) but if I get pulled over in the Silvia I am treated far worse than if I get pulled over in my BF Falcon (Daily). I'm one of the "good" ones too, very little street driving, take the car to the track, next to no "hooning" of any kind on the street and if I do I'm testing something out the back of town. But, to be fair, "we" as in the performance community have made our own bed by being idiots on the road (I used to be that person years ago in my first R33 and then my GT-R). So I don't begrudge the law for trying to stop idiots being idiots. I just accept that if I want to really enjoy my car properly, I have to take it to the track. Ever since I started doing that I've had no issues plus I can just smash the shit out of it all day and never worry about cops, traffic, etc. I much prefer the freedom, just not the cost.

I don't drive mine much on the street, too modified and not cop friendly. I save it for the track I wish I'd driven mine 10,000k's lol

Might be worth getting the Innovate for peace of mind then. If the sensor becomes .1 less accurate in 2 years (which for me would be about 6000ks of driving if I'm lucky) then that's fine. It's not tuned on the ragged edge where that much if a difference would matter anyway. If you are really concerned about safety and accuracy then you'd be better of buying a higher grade kit anyway.

I reckon AEM is trying to cover their ass a bit by having it further down to ensure the sensor lasts the warranty period, Bosch on the other hand are producing lovely marketing material with 100,000k service life. Interestingly the AEM manual says 80,000k service life and this is further reduced by heat, leaded fuels, too much oil consumption, etc. Ultimately, I think it will be an issue my cars next owner deals with.

Important to remember mounting angle too, the stock location is great as it doesn't allow moisture to build up easily between the probe and inside of the bung. If you mount it sideways like I did you need to have some angle on it to help stop the moisture build up.

No idea mate as mine came in the kit. eBay prices around 80-90 but I do recall reading that someone got one super cheap through Bursons/AutoBarn/Repco type place. The sensor on it's own is nothing special, just a Bosch 4.2 and they are readily available locally.

Agreed, any o2, either narrow or wide is fine in the stock location on a stock vehicle for quite a while. We're not talking stock vehicles though. Als bare in mind that a narrow band only has to provide a very limited range of measurement so the sensor can take quite a beating and still do this. Bosch also note that the sensor life is reduced by heat, carbon build up, rich mixtures etc. So it seems logical that moving the sensor a little down stream will increase sensor life for a minimal increase in sensor lag. I'm happy to follow AEM's advice on having it further downstream as it makes sense to me. Perhaps that's why Innovates seem to require the free calibration so regularly and have so many issues? Too hot for too long on modified cars (I'm only going on google searches and forum feedback) I cant comment from personal experience. In reality, I'd hazard a guess and say sensor location is only going to increase/reduce sensor life by a minimal percentage so put it wherever is easiest for you to maintain. If it's an Innovate, feedback tends to imply that putting it somewhere you can remove it easily and free air calibrate it makes sense. For me the easiest spot was definitely the de-cat pipe.

You can use the existing o2 sensor location but given both the Innovate and the AEM use the same Bosch sensor which is supposed to be mounted further away from the turbo, it will shorten sensor life. Not the end of the world (only 60-90 to replace) but something to consider if using the stock location for a track car/high boost etc.

Digging up an old thread, wanted to clarify something. 1) As I have my battery and isolator in the same spot do I need both stickers on the car next to each other (plain blue triangle and blue triangle with lightning bolt)? 2) Do I need the lightning bolt sticker if I don't have a remote pull for the isolator? I'm guessing the sticker should go where the pull for the isolator goes, which for me will be right there anyway as I'm going to use the aerial hole. 3) Best place on the rear quarter closest to the battery or on the rear face of the boot lid?

If you or he's worried, can't see a reason why your exhaust guy can't knock up a stainless bung easily enough.

Looked like mild to me, welded into mild pipe and no issues at all. Can't think of how this would be an issue on a stainless pipe. I just dropped a hole saw through the pipe that was a touch larger than the bung so I could recess it in and get a bit of angle (manual wants minimum 10deg to stop moisture build up) Plus I needed some extra clearance.