No Crust Racing

There's a few sellers on eBay and with the changing exchange rate they can range from mid 180 to about 200ish. Mine was 192 for example. As for which it depends on personal preference, both use the same sensor but the Innovate can be re-calibrated where as the AEM cannot. The Innovate has reportedly suffered from a few quality issues and issues with requiring re-calibration more regularly than might be considered normal, dunno if that's still the case though. The Innovate is a touch more expensive but also appears to have better output options, the AEM is simpler but appears to have less issues.

You can get individual harness bits from AEM as needed if it's an AEM that is,, I dunno about Innovates.

Great footage Dane, hard to believe they're an NA 4cyl 0_0 IS that the same day you busted your arm? If so got on-board?

I've got a braided kit for it, I'll just get a restrictor for it as a safety measure. Fingers crossed it stays in one piece on it's first spool...

I've been having a word to a few turbo places. They had the following to say. 3an lines can use a restrictor inline and should do so. Some T28 BB's have a restrictor in the oil feed port from factory though. A restrictor should be used if the turbo smokes a but on idle (as the seals are dynamic). Oil in the inlet snout and outlet pipe on the comp side is fairly normal and does not warrant a rebuild unless the comp blades are damaged or there's excessive binding or contact with the housings at all. Usually this is just breathed in from the PCV system. So at this stage I might just bolt it on and see what happens, for the price I paid, it's worth having a go as if it's good it'll be the cheapest working BB in bloody history.

I was thinking the same thing in so far as if it blows there's usually oil in the turbine housing, however a lot of other resources, granted just google searches, indicate oil in the comp intake out outlet pipes is also sign of blown oil seals. Any thoughts on my restrictor theory? If I remove the housings is there anything in particular that would be a dead giveaway? I don't want to go ahead and fit it just to have to pull it off again.

Morning gents, I bought a turbo advertised as S14 and as I understand it 99% of S14s were bush bearing. It was listed as being rebuilt previously but possibly requiring oil seals. This seemd perfect to me as I've wanted to try my hand at a DIY rebuild. However, I've spent some time cleaning it up and the tag reads 14411-91F00, it has 6 bolt housings, and has the cast divider between the wastegate port and turbine exhaust flow which appears to indicate it's a Ball Bearing Unit from an S15. I understand that BBs cannot just be rebuilt in the same way standard bush bearing turbo's can, as in DIY? I note that the oil feed line did not have a restrictor in it, I thought that BBs should have a restrictor? The turbo spins OK and the blades are in very good condition, there is no free play in any direction, up/down/left/right in/out. I noticed that there was oily residue on the inlet snout and on the outlet of the comp housing as well as around the oil feed line fitting. I'm wondering two things, does this indicate the oil seals are blown? Is it possible that too much pressure from the oil feed (no resitrictor) was forcing oil past the seals and that it could run fine with the right pressure? Is there any way for me to inspect it myself to determine if it's really stuffed? Can just oil seals be replaced or does it require an entire cartridge? Cheers

Ahh yes that's right, it's been 3000k's of track time since I did that last and she's an old bus so worth me doing it again.

I'm chatting with Greg from QFM about thisalso, he also asked about the wheel bearings. Can I test them easily? I might look into a seal kit, they were second hand when I got them and have been abused since.

Hey guys, attached are some pics of my front driver side pads that came out of an S13 Silvia (CA18). I’ll detail the setup and my questions below. PADS are QFM A1RM Car has only 165rwkw and runs around 1:43 around Winton. Runs Federal 595 RS-R Rubber (235 R17s) Runs TRW Lucas 600 Fluid Runs RDA Slotted/Ventilated Rotors up front, solid slotted rears Runs S15 calipers up front, standard rear Runs R32 GT-R Master Cylinder Standard brake lines Pads have done about 5 track days, 1 drift day, and 2 DECA days and very minimal street driving. All up under 2500ks total. Why would only the inner driver side pad wear like this? The passenger side pads show wear similar to the outer pad from the driver side and appear to have some meat left. Rear pads are fine. There’s clearly something amiss here to have that much difference in pad wear from the inner to outer pad, as well as such different pad wear side to side as the passenger side shows even wear inner to outer pad. Thoughts?

No wonder it's not finished!

How many people do you need to turn a spanner...

Puny Humans!

What are your thoughts on running more front camber and replacing the stock front sway bar?

Great video at Winton, I like that my lines are basically the same as yours, yours are a bit tighter though, and I suspect cleaner Interestingly your car does the same things mine does at the same points on the track, scrub wheels, tail happy etc. Though it's doing it all much faster!

Just on that, you mean rear toe 1mm total static?

Will have to read over lunch, bit long to read on the clock. Something I had stupidly overlooked though is perhaps my entry speed is too high for the car setup, but that's why I want to adjust the setup so I can take the corner faster. This will be especially important when I upgrade my turbo for more killer wasps.

So the consensus appears to be along the lines of this. Adjust for some toe out up front, up to around 1mm (each side or total static?) Replace the factory sway bars so I'm not relying on the spring rates/damper settings to control body roll I can't easily change spring rates so they will have to stay, this is just budget club sport after all. I think I'm at the max of the front camber, I may be able to get it up to around -2.5 but I don't think going heaps more camber is the answer as my corner speeds aren't "that" high and if the car isn't leaning over enough I'll be chewing out inside edges. If I recall correctly, I think R32 GTS-T or GT-R factory front sway bars fit S13's and are a nice upgrade. I also need to get some toe arms to correct the toe in at rear, as I understand it it should be 0 or at the most 1mm total static toe in for stability, at present it's a bit more than that due to aforementioned toe arm damage. Thoughts?

Hi guys, I've noticed that after a number of hot laps the car will want to understeer at Winton, most notably through the left handed sweeper and coming out of the cleavage up the back. I realise some of this will be due to overheating the tyres, and I'm playing with pressures at present but I'm also interested to know what else I can do to increase outright front grip, not just increase the time before the tyres start to go off and get greasy. Car is as follows. S13, CA18DET, mild mods for around 165rwkw, mild weight reduction, rear interior removed air con and stereo fully removed, battery in the boot passenger side. - Car has BC BR Coilovers (8kg front 6kg rear). - Damper is currently set on 4 clicks from softest of 32 settings up front but I'm playing with this as the harder I go damper, the less roll I have but the faster tyres go off, lowering the hot pressure seems to negate this though. I wold not say the car rolls excessively as is evidenced by tyre wear (see below). Rear damper is softer for max power down, also has C-West wing (rear grip is no issue what so ever). - Tyres are Federal 595 RS-R 235/45/17 (8" front, 9" rear rims). Last tested at 36psi hot front and rear. Ran a PB by 3 tenths compared to old RE55s so grip is reasonable from these. - Car has approx -2.2-2.3 camber up front, -1 at rear. - 0 toe up front, few mm total toe in at the rear (somewhat due to an ever so slighty bent toe arm which are getting replaced). - 5-6 deg castor front. - Basic strut brace up front, none in the rear - Standard sway bars (suspect replacing this could help but as the spring rates are already quite high for an S13 it may not be required) - S15 power steering rack and super pro bushes, good condition tie rods etc - From an aero point of view, I have a standard CA front bar with some venting cut into both sides for oil cooler and CAI, the lower edge does taper back towards the car on an angle so a small amount of lift could be generated there possibly. I suspect I need to focus more on mechanical grip rather than aero as the car is only entering the left handed sweeper at about 130km/h. I realise going back to R-Comps will help to some degree but at this point that is not an option as the RS-Rs are cheap, have decent grip and, are only 2 track days old. What can I do suspension wise to improve front end grip? Initial turn in is good, it's mid corner and exiting when I'm trying to get on the gas as early as possible that I start to see understeer. I'm interested in tuning the current setup or replacing stock parts, not replacing already upgraded parts. Is it worth me knocking up front splitter and undertray for the front of the car? Do I need more camber perhaps? Tyre wear looks good and it is not feathering the outside edges that I can see. Hopefully that's enough info. if you need to know anything else let me know. Cheers

Had my second session on these yesterday and went 3 tenths faster than my previous PB which was set on old RE55s. http://www.natsoft.com.au/cgi-bin/results.cgi?24/09/2011.WIN.S1 I'm car 66, finished 23rd. I'm very happy with these results as I've only driven on these tyres twice and have been at Winton twice in the last 3 weeks and then nothing before that for 12mths. The car is no more powerful than it was on the previous PB though has had a small amount of weight removed and some redistributed. All in all a good result. I dropped hot temps to 36 front and rear ad firmed up the damper and found more grip on offer and for a little longer. The loss of grip was much more progressive also and the car still responded though wanted to understeer through the left handed sweeper.

That's awesome. If I ever have a car that goes beyond club level hacking I'll certainly consider that sort if thing. The S13 is just a fun hack to tide me over until I've paid off enough on the house to warrant another GT-R.

Side bar: You do less work than I do...

Completely agree! I didn't say I did not check pressures, I said I didn't want to do it every session because I'm lazy. I keep tabs on the temp and the weather and if the tyres go off sooner or later I check them again when I return. This is why I know how much my pressures come up and why I'd had chats with Federal about it. At the moment, I'm trying to find the right pressure to keep them on for longer and give me max gripz

Yeah fair point, as I said though it's a starting point only. TBH I don't really want to be making pressure adjustments after every 15min session anyway, I'm too lazy for that