No Crust Racing

OK Update time. I had a few mins last night so I pulled the CAS to test. A few things to note. 1) The CAS and timing cover had paint pen marks on them, so it's been off before, the exhaust cam gear also had paint pen marks on it so I will deffo check timing as it's been adjusted before either when tuned or when timing belt was done. 2) According to the Service Manual, the CAS should read between 0 and 5V on pins A and B (see attachment) and the injectors should fire when rotating the shaft. I quadruple tested both pins and got between 0 and .3 on A and between 11.7 and 11.9 on B. That seemed very far off which is why I quadruple tested. I did however get 0-5V on pin D (I quadruple checked the plug orientation to be sure i was testing the right pins). So either my CAS is wack or the service manual is asking you to test the wrong pins. The injectors could be heard firing also so that's good. I dropped down to a workshop this morning where a mates car is getting a rebuild and borrowed his CAS and Ignitor. Will check both of those and timing this weekend. I'll re-gap the plugs back to .8 for testing too as a few CA owners have suggested coppers at .8 is the way to go, no harm in trying. I will do that after the above.

The mate with the timing gun has a carby V8 so I might be able to pilfer one of his leads too.

If it was a fuel pressure issue I'd of thought it would show up with the regulator test, the service manual has that as a step to rule out the pump for misfire, lack of power, or surge issues. The next step in the FSM is to check the CAS itself and then check timing. So I'll rule those out first. I'll need some bits to do timing though, I have access to a timing gun but I can't see a way to get a signal for it without running a spark plug lead between the coil and plug so I can clamp onto that. The manual has other ways but involves specific Nissan tools.

Stock pump

Forgot to add, safc is on zero adjustment atm, ecu is tuned. Cat is.... Track modified.

No consult port on ca's, only ecu diag LEDs which are showing clear. Update time: removed fuel reg vac hose and blocked, went for a drive. Only had it miss a bit a few times but I put this down to the temp tonight, even colder than last night. Not goin to do any more drive testing at night as I can't get the car hot enough without flogging it and I'm risking defects etc by being out in it as it's track modified but street reg'd and only rarely street driven. Still showed the same doughy/bog down behavior once warmed also. When I got back I also tested the resistance across the engine temp sensor as per service manual. Got .386k ohms. Manual says .2 at 80 degrees, the car was a bit cooler so higher resistance seems right. FYI it should be 2.5k ohms when cold and gets lower as the temp rises. Next step is pull the cas ad test it, then I might drive it and heat soak the engine bay/cas a test it again. I have access to another ignitor so will look at that over the weekend. I know I had some bad misfire in my 33 from this but this feels different and the ignitor is not on the rocker in a ca. Sorry for typos, on the iPhone.

Ok felt guilty so went for a drive and skipped the last bit of top gear! A few things to note. Gaps were .5 and I also noticed a plug on top of the air regulator under the throttle body had come off so I fixed that. Went for a drive and it was only right at the end of the drive that it started to miss a small amount and bog down if I flattened it from 25-2800 onwards. I think it was too cold last night as normally when it does it the water temp has come up to 70 and it only got to 60 last night as it was late and quite cold. Water temp sender is in the rad return hose FYI. I noticed too that when the car is warmed right up and starts missing it also appears to rev up slower. Wondering if this could be a electrical issue with the cas. I'll take a look at the service manual for the testing procedure and will test the crimped fuel reg next as I only wanted to test one thing at a time.

Sitting on the couch watching the new Top Gear don't think I'm getting to it tonight. Will update shortly.

Ok weather is finally good enough to go test at .5 will do after work. Anyone care to explain how crimping the fuel reg hose will help me test?

Ok re-gapped plugs to .5 noticed that the new plugs are already quite black with carbon , not fuel or oil, a dry build up. Interesting given they are only 50ks old. Will test drive when the road is dry again, too hard to test in the wet.

I'll gap the plugs smaller and try again. Curious as to how the fpr test works?

New plugs gapped to .65 and fresh fuel, still doing it. The fuel filter is only 1000ks old as I considered that. I'm going to do a bit more testing with the tune as it "feels" like mix related, though I did consider timing?

Im thinking that if it was an air leak then the problem is it's too rich and I took all the fuel out of the map to test and it made no difference. Car has been on the dyno an has a tuned ecu, I have the safc to monitor and make small ajustments

Hey guys, Here's the story. S13, CA18, T25G, 14psi, Iridium spark plugs gapped to .7 If I drive along in second at about 2800rpm and drop the throttle flat (or if I happen to drop back from 3rd to 2nd and flatten the throttle, the car will mis and splutter from around 2800-3000 rpm up til as late as 32-3400 rpm. This is much more prevalent when the car is fully up to temp. I've tried swapping in different coil packs, cleaning the electrodes on the coil packs (no cracks on the existing or addition tested coil packs. Putting fuel into the map there (SAFC) taking fuel out of the map there. Swapped over the coil pack loom. Plugs are a heat range 6 so a range colder than factory and are only 3000-3500 ks old, about 1000-1500 of those would be track ks. The plug shows white discolouration that correlates to the high rpm usage (this is a track car). What are your thoughts? I'm thinking of grabbing a cheap set of plugs today to test, but the iridiums were $25 each and are only 3500ks old, the car only makes 165rwkw. Initially I thought coilpacks or tuning but after trying two sets of coils and putting all the fuel in and taking all the fuel out it doesn't seem to help.

Just whip up some John Deere looking frame from RHS like I did using the old tabs Backyard Racing FTW

No worries and good luck. I only had standard seats in my 33 GT-R so I can't comment on how centered the wheel is to the seat in those. Pics when you're done

Sounds like a good price then to me. What are they going in? Height could be an issue depending on the rails. I think tall people have had success with Bride super low rails and the velo mounts. I'm shorter so was able to just make up my own frame from RHS as I had the height to work with. My head just clears the roof with a helmet on. I'm not sure what you're putting it in but in my S13, using a plumb bob I found that the steering wheel was off centre to the seat by a notable margin, and have since found this in other mates S13s. So I took the opportunity to centre the wheel to the seat.

If it's one of these then you will have no problems, I got mine in a ifre sale when the new model was coming out so it was crazy cheap. The new model is much nicer but also twice what I paid. I've done a couple track days and some DECAs in it without issues. The only thing you might want to consider is how narrow the seat is for a given size, I'm 6ft and 80kg so pretty average and it's a nice snug fit for me. If you've got broader hips or a fat ass you might struggle a touch, test it naturally EDIT: If you can, make sure you get the removable back and leg padding. The back one is especially useful and gives better lower back support. I'm not sure what he's asking for them but as a reference point I paid $500 for mine brand new, though it was a run out and the velo adjustable mounts were extra. I also sw a blue one go on ebay that was basically brand new for $350. Hope that helps.

Mustn't have looked too hard.. lol

Ca has no bov from factory at all and seems more aggressive without it, just felt a lazy with it on, smoother bit lazy. I've tried feeding the wategate from the tb and from its current location on the hot pipe, boost is far more stable on the it pipe on this car.

I've opted to remove it. Did some more testing and the car is better to drive hard without it. I'll stick it on the shelf for now incase this thread produces some good reasoning for putting it back on. Cheers

Hmm I was told to have the wastegate source as close to the turbo as possible so it's right on the turbo outlet pipe. What I'm more interested in is whether or not to stick with the bov, maybe with the small port blocked. I might test that today. Have others found their power delivery and lag between shifts better or worse?

14psi on a T25G (SR Turbo) R33 Factory BOV is not adjustable. Read a few threads where people block the small port. Have you run without one?

Afternoon Gents I've been doing some "seat of pants" testing with the Silvia (CA18 no BOV from factory) for track style driving, as in flat out - not street style get on boost for a bit in one gear to get some flutter then cruise stuff. The car seemed to build boost slowly, hold it poorly and fall off boost quickly between shifts. I put this down to one of two things. 1) The Turbo XS bleed valve it came with. 2) No BOV (my reasoning being that between shifts it was stallin the comp wheel a tad). So to remedy this I did two things. 1) Fitted a TurboTech boost tap, I've had great experience with these in the past. 2) Fitted an R33 plumb back BOV, plumbed in between the AFM and the turbo inlet. I noticed afterwards that boost was building about the same rate (noise is slightly different though) and that rebuilding boost between gear shifts seems to be about the same. No bleeding in the top end now and holding boost much more steadily. I removed the BOV completely, leaving only the new boost tap, and found that (from the seat of the pants) boost came on quicker and seemed to come back on after shifts about the same as with the BOV. I know the BOV does have that small port that bleeds some boost off and I can feel that the car drives smoother between semi boost shifts with it on but it kind of feels worse from a "motorsport" point of view - power delivery just seems a bit flatter. So, is there any reason for me to persevere with the BOV, perhaps block off the small bleed port? In my head the car should have been better with it on but it seems to vent too much between shifts and takes time to spool again, I wondering if the rate at which I'm shifting when on the track negates any risk of flutter/comp stalling as I've already shifted and opened up again before that becomes a problem. Lots of rambling I know, lol Thoughts? Cheers

OK all laptops have been confirmed sold. Matty: I'll PM you so this thread can be closed. Cheers