No Crust Racing

Want up with i mean Damn iPhone

Its more a case of knowing that semis have more grip than I can skillfully use. With the Ku's I don't wind to wind up with a tyre I feel can't keep up which will frustrate me as I'm already used to the grip of semis

Well we'll be there but not bringing the car, saving up the dollarz for some more semis and some track days instead. I''ll be bringing my helmet though so get that passenger seat ready Leon! Russ, I call shotgun for some long wang action... sounds so dirty... And to whoever else has space I might try and sleaze some rides Is Shane coming? I'm hanging for a GT-R fix. We're bringing our drinking boots too...

Sat Only for Kate and I Bring your drinking boots...

Hey guys, I've got one of these and whenever I start to develop some boost the gauge starts to squeal. As the gauge is fully electronic there are no vac lines in the cabin, it only connects to the control box in the engine bay. So I'm guessing there's either a capacitor or resistor or something squealing in the gauge. Anyone got an idea on what it might be and if there's a way to fix it beyond replacing the gauge? Cheers

Do anything to fix it?

Hey guys, I've got one of these and whenever I start to develop some boost the gauge starts to squeal. As the gauge is fully electronic there are no vac lines in the cabin, it only connects to the control box in the engine bay. So I'm guessing there's either a capacitor or resistor or something squealing in the gauge. Anyone got an idea on what it might be and if there's a way to fix it beyond replacing the gauge? Cheers

I think the panel has spoken Kez...

Agreed, the torque would help. Don't think he's doing this til he's off his P's anyway.

Yes it will tow easier but the fuel Econ is absolutely horrid and the na does a good enough job. More torque is great but it's gotta be on boost to make it meaning it's very thirsty and it eats premium - ouch. Plus it uses more fuel as a normal daily and would cost more to buy and insure.

Anyone heard of/used these? http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php?topic=9207.0 Proper details http://www.silverstone.com.my/default.aspx#1305179110073 Are these a proper R comp?

lol nah there's a few different NA 6 cylinder Falcons to choose from. I don't have the BA anymore, got BF MK II now but even still I'll have to pass on that "generous" offer

Ahh, ok I'll avoid the 888s What were the FZs setting you back?

Same as me then, basic coil overs and a couple adjustable arms. The shagged RE55s still seemed to have a ton of grip to me, more grip than my talent (or lack there of) could make use of without feeling like I was hurting the car so I'll hold out for some more semis. If you guys come across something let me know.

Oh and also, interesting that Harry has a different experience to you Benny. Harry what sort of Car are you running and what sort of suspension setup, you too Benny.

I think you need to stfu....

That's interesting stuff Harry. I think temp hs a bit to do with it, from what I read KUs hold there own on really cold days when the semis can't get up to operating temp. Is this your experience? As it seems you're in the minority on whether KUs are as quick as new or old semis. FYI I've been looking for some more RE55s

Sounds like semis for me then. Car gets driving on the street maybe 10 times a year? And for that I have some cheapo 17s with cheapo rubber. Someone give me the hook up on some used semis, I know a few tyre shops have them but I'm having no luck.

Hmm, realistically I can probably squeeze another day or two from the semis I have, the fronts will take it but the rears are well into the depth indicators and have a few nice scratches from burnouts at DECA, woops. After that I think I'll stick with the semis. So, the question remains... who has some 235 R17 semis for me!

Something to add Kez, I see on FB that you're considering an XR6. Of all the NA Falcons I've test driven, the XR6s are by far the most thrashed. You're better off with a Futura or a Fairmont, granted neither look as good and you wont get the pretty LCD screen but the chances of the car being flogged are reduced. As always a test drive and good inspection will tell the story but in my testing I've found that the majority of XR6s already had gearboxes that felt and sounded like Taxi's with much higher Ks. I'm biased because I boughta Fairmont but after test driving a number of others, Fairmonts tended to have been better looked after and come with a lot of features. If the budget stretches that far you can also look at BFs with ZF 6spds. Even the XTs are pretty well appointed and there's a few good XT based special models like the ES which is what I have and was a run out model that was based on an XT but gets the nicer Euro front end, 17" polished alloys, the 6spd, Fairmont interior, reversing sensors (oddly no rear power windows lol), and XR suspension. It's equivalent to an SV-Z in the Commo's where they basically see what they have lying around the factory to spruce up some cars before a model change (ES was only available as a BF MK II). You can get those around the 10K mark now, and that's a lot of car for the money.

This was my understanding of it too, old R comps are still quicker but I also saw ssxRicoh (think thats the username) saying he set his best PB on KUs as opposed to shagged semis (was a cold day and the KUs prefer that). So I'm a bit lost, I realise that for 500 I'll be getting used semis instead of new street tyres but given how much grip even the shagged ones I bought had (old old RE55s I got for $200) I'm not sure if a street tyre will satisfy me grip wise. The other option is I go the new streets and if they are no good after one track day I sell them on or swap them for some used semis. What's your say on the grip situation Richard?

Kez, as you know from seeing me at a few events I do exactly what you're talking about. Drive a nice comfy car daily and have an S13 for DECA/Track. When doing my research I opted to go originally with a BA Fairmont for 8k on road. It was a 2003 model car (equivalent to a VY Berlina in age and spec) and had all the nice luxo features. The BA was about 2-3k cheaper than VYs, has a higher towing capacity and the engine develops more power and more torque whilst using the same if not less fuel. As a daily I was averaging around 9L per hundred k's on my daily commute, to be fair 10k of my 22k trip each way is on the highway and I'm very cautious on the throttle. Only thing I added was a PWR trans cooler to avoid any potential issues with coolant contaminating the trans fluid (a common BA issue on high K examples) and that also allowed me to tow comfortably at 110 in 4th, saving lots of fuel. (Ford handbook for BAs says to tow in 3rd) Fuel economy is not stellar when towing, you might do better with a turbo diesel when towing. The comfort and fuel econ when not towing which is 99% of the time far outweighed this. We're talking 400ks to a full tank when towing and around 500-550 normally. I've since moved on to a BF MKII which has the ZF 6 speed in it and am now seeing fuel econ of around 8.6L but I'm yet to tow with it so can't say much to what it uses when towing. Beyond that the transcooler/radiator issue from the BAs was partially addressed in that the BF runs a separate heat exchanger on the side of the block for the trans rather than having the cooler built into the radiator like the BA. Again this came down to the fact that for 12k on the road I got a very well spec'd 2007 model car. To buy a similar spec Commodore, which would have been a VE, I'd have paid 3-4k more at least and ended up with a car that has less power and torque and worse fuel economy. The BF has a slightly larger tank and I'm averaging around 620-660ks on a tank, and by tank I mean when it beeps at me, usually around 54L goes in after 3 clicks on the nozzle. On dedicated highway runs between here and melbourne it averages in the mid 7s. From a purely financial point of view, the Falcon is easily the better choice. If you compare two of the same spec and year model cars from ford and holden the ford will almost definitely be cheaper (provided k's are similar) and will have more power and more torque with equal to better fuel economy. There's a reason that the bulk of Taxis are Fords. I'm no Ford fan either, first car was a Commodore and I've always been a "Holden" man, but the Ford is a much better fit for this purpose (For me) and is far more economical all round. To be fair, I think the Commodores are much better handling cars when driving spiritedly but the Ford is a nicer highway cruise. If you are doing a lot of stop start driving you might find the Ford actually has worse econ than a Commo because the Falcon is heavier for almost every model back to 98. I can also chew your ear off about what to do Silvia wise. We can talk at DECA Cheers

Option Garage is doing them for that price but if I'm spending $700 (which I really shouldn't be anyway due to having just bought a house) then I'm only another $300 away from the R888s (GG compound) which would be much faster. One think I couldn't clearly ascertain was how the KU36's would let me down, is it just in outright grip or also in ability to handle sustained hot laps (or both?) It's also no as straight forward as comparing new KUs to used REs because the KUs are still a street tyre.

Ideally I was after some proper R comps, I considered the KU36s as I can get a new set for about 700 but for another 300 I can get R888s instead. In the end I wasn't looking to spend that much anyway, hence shopping for second handers. This new house is eating up all the moneyz. You should PM me with details anyway out of curiosity...

Awesome thanks for the info, unfortunately they are sold but I still needed to know for when I'm looking at others. If anyone has some 235 semis for sale let me know