No Crust Racing

Hey guys, back again. Been playing a bit and have worked out a few handy controls which has helped. I've been focusing on using the S mode for now and have also had a bit of a play changing the intensity of the flash when taking pics in low light which has also helped in some circumstances. I like the idea of being able to wind up shutter speed to avoid needing flash though. One thing that I'm still really struggling with is getting the clarity. If you look at the attached images, tell me what settings would give me clarity here. I tried auto with flash shutter mode with different speeds and I've played with focus modes too. I'm guessing that given the varying lighting and wide range of depth here it makes it a hard shot to get. I was using the knife block under the phone as a reference point while not actually focusing on them specifically. I resized them to get them under the 2mb individual size limit. Excuse the dishes, I just finished washing up

I know it's not an RB but it will make some good numbers and you never know who might be interested Weiand Tunnel Ram (HPC Coated) Tunnel Ram Linkages Twin 660 center squirters by RAYJE Carburetors. (Rebuilt and un used) Edelbrock Aluminium Cylinder Heads. Custom Race Valves Iskederian Springs Crow Locks Comp Cams Retainers. Screw in Studs and Guide Plates. Yella Terra Roller Rockers TRW 12.5-1 Forged Racing Pistons Super Cobra Jet Con Rods ARP Rod Bolts Clevite Bearings King Bearings Bullet Racing Flat Tappet Camshaft Comp Cams Flat Tappet Lifters 460 Offset Crank. High Enenrgy Sump High Volume Oil Pump. Chrome bolts with Ford logo embossed on them. MSD Distributor part no:8577 MSD 6AL Ignition MSD Blasster 2 Coil Moroso Over flow bottle Moroso Rocker Covers CVR High performance Billet Water Pump Castlemaine Rod Shop BB460 Engine Mounts (engineered) Basicaly the whole engine is brand new and not been used except for the crank and cam. The engine does need some minor work to finish. Bottom end is complete. Need to: Tighten rockers, put on rocker covers, manifold, water pump, carbies & linkages I have been told the below details by the engine builder. Motor size: 485ci Approx HP: 620 - 650 This motor has cost me over $14k I priced a single carb motor similar to this the other day and it was just under $13k Price is $10,000 but I am open to offers As you can see the motor has all the good stuff. Located in Albury/Wodonga, Best to reach me via mobile on 0435 658 832

You'd have to think so. What's required to get 180kw out of an NA SR? I'm assuming you mean 180 at the fly wheel and not at the wheels.

Best offer taken, want this gone before I move shortly.

Hey guys, I've noticed an odd issue with on the SAFC in my CA S13 recently. When slowly applying throttle the voltage will start to climb by itself once you reach a certain point. Say once I get to 25% throttle it will then just start climbing up to 100% by itself. The car itself is not actually accelerating though so it's purely an electrical thing. At first I suspected my SAFC wiring into the loom was bad so I re-did it and soldered it up all nice and pretty - good connection to the TPS wire and good earth. Problem still existed so I'm now suspecting it's actually the TPS itself. I removed it and soaked it in contact cleaner (the unit is sealed but has some holes I could use to get the cleaner in) as I understand it's a potentiometer inside which rotates around and adjust voltage accordingly. There was no change in the behaviour. I've confirmed that the voltage increase is there at the TPS and is not just being seen by the SAFC. Has anybody else seen this sort of thing or has any other suggestions before I replace the TPS? Cheers

I'm keen to see the rear mounting setup when you have a spare moment, or should that be if? lol

You're a machine, got pics yet?

And that's still probably faster than my CA

That's alright then. Are you finding them harder to get to temp as the compound gets harder with each heat cycle?

For those running the mini slicks, how long are they taking you to get them up to temp? For the price and reported tread depth they seem like awesome value but I'm planning on attending some super sprints at Winton and worried that I wont have enough time to get them up to temp.

Ah, bit far to go then, I'm in Albury. If there's any way I can assist with measurements or anything let me know. Cheers

Where are you? I've got a a semi stripped S13 that I wouldn't mind a bolt in for.

Went for a quick drive last night, scared some people walking their dog. Battery bracket works well, no movement

went for a drive, feels pretty good and drives straight so that's a good start. Reason the rack went in was to sort a dead feeling it had after the last deca. Feels better than it did but still has moments where it feels suspect though, so maybe it's the pump

I'd say I've ended up with about 2-3mm total toe out up front. Do you guys drop the tie rod end and spin it on the rack end or leave the tie rod end attached and spin the rack end inside the tie rod end thread. I was dropping the tie rod, the flat surfaces on the rack end to get a spanner on it looked a little rough and small. Downside being I could only adjust in larger increments with the tie rod end method, think I'll see how it drives then use the rack end adjustment for fine tuning.

Battery stickers are bigger than expected. Much bigger 0_0

As I understand it, you'll puff some smoke out the exhaust, typical blue/grey oil burning smoke. Not fluffy white like when you do a head gasket and not black/dark like when you're running rich. You can also end up with quite a bit of oil in the inlet tract, intercooler core and for those running bleed valves close to the turbo you might find some oil seeping around the valve knob etc. What symptoms do you have that make you question the turbo seals?

Is this what you're running?

Recently replaced the rack in the S13 with an S15 unit which required using the s13 rack ends. While I tried to take good measurements before and after, naturally my toe is a bit out. I've had a read and learned how to take a toe reading using the string line setup and am now adjusting. I'm curious what others are running on circuit setups. I'm just going to have a look back to my last alignment paperwork and try to match that as the car felt good to me but I'm still curious what others are doing. My home track is Winton so not massive top speeds where the straight line stablity of toe in might be paramount. I can't recall exactly until I see the paperwork but I think it had about 1mm of toe in previously, with -2.5 camber, can't remember the castor reading.

Should add, only running 12-14psi. What's the advantage of a GTR bov? I imagine 60 is going to be for the BOV itself, no connecting pipe.

Benefit being?

I've got a CA S13 mainly used for track duty and I was considering grabbing a plumback BOV as it falls off boost noticeably between gear changes. Has anyone used these bosch bovs? Any idea on what boost they'll hold? I don't need anything fancy, http://cgi.ebay.com.au/BOV-Bosch-plus-2-5-...1#ht_500wt_1156 Furthermore, will it make a difference in reducing the amount of compressor surge which is what I assume is causing the boost to drop off so noticeably. I'm not "that" slow on the shifts.

Yeah it's a valid point. Certainly something to be mindful of in the future.

Good consideration for rally people. Not such an issue for me. If there's any debris flying around to damage my battery I've probably got bigger issues. If it can live in the engine bay without a box, it can live in my boot without one also.

I do the same, always thinking about the what if, but then I try and remember who these stickers are written for and not try and read too much into it.