No Crust Racing

Hah thanks Terry - I knew you'd poke your head in here. Or should I call you Poirot The seats was clearly my fault, in a rush, sick of searching around and didn't pay enough attention to my "spider senses" This time I was paying attention as I normally do. The seats will be the first and last time I don't pay attention to what's going on! In addition, The VIN supplied by the seller is legit and does not show any finance or theft etc. Nice touch to use details on a clean car. At this stage he's waiting for my payment. I'm going to drag it on a bit and extract as much info as possible to pass on appropriate authorities. Yes I'm wasting my own time but this type of thing burns me up.

Further more... I thought I might at least waste some of his time From: Dan Fewster [mailto:[email protected]] Sent: Thursday, 14 October 2010 10:18 PM To: 'Jason Derrington' Subject: RE: XR6 No worries Jas, I got it too. I’m making payment now, can’t wait! Cheers Dan From: Jason Derrington [mailto:[email protected]] Sent: Thursday, 14 October 2010 10:13 PM To: [email protected] Subject: RE: XR6 Dan, I got a letter from Ebay that they have sent you the invoice for the car. Just wanted to be sure that you've received it and that you understood how to make the payment and how to confirm it. Now I will wait for the confirmation from ebay that you have made the payment and I will start the shipping immediately. Alongside the car you will receive all the papers,title,bill of sale signed by me,owner's manual and two set of keys so it will be no problem to register the car into your name. Kind regards, Jason Derrington

I offered to have RACV inspect the car at my expense. Unsurprisingly he declined explaining that he didn't want someone else testing it while he wasn't there. Yet he's happy to just freight it to someone no worries..

I've been looking for a car recently and in the process came across a Silver 04 Model BA XR6, 123,000k's horrid chrome wheels but with an attractive sale price of $7600 - the cheapest 04 XR6 going around. I'm assuming it's stuffed or dodgy but thought what the hell can't hurt to enquire. The seller, Jasin Derrington ([email protected]) explains that while the car is listed as for sale in QLD, it's actually stored in TAS at present as he has recently moved to Spain for work. Alarm bells are already ringing. I also negotitate on the price as I'd already bought a car, he knocks off $1K in an instant for a "quick sale". He sends a link to a valid eBay webpage explaining how their buyer protection policy works and ensures you that it's all above board, you send eBay the $$, he sends the car, you accept the car if you are happy with it, they release the money. That part is all well and true excpet that eBay do not protect buyers when one party is overseas. Scam detected. I contact carsales, they pull the ad and send me a legit email saying we are investigating. Shortly after I receive a reasonably legit looking email from "carsales" saying they have investigated and that the ad is all above board and that the seller has verfied ownership and vehicle details (shown below). I search for the car on carsales, it doesn't exist anymore, I search the name on the email of the supposed carsales employee and the body of text and find numerous references to this exact message and scam setup on the net. I also note the ebay account has only been active for less than a month, has zero feedback and is not listing the car as a sale item. Buyers beware of this scam! I've been around long enough to pick up on the signs but I'm sure not everyone out there has been round the block enough to know the differences between a great deal and a scam. This is purely a public service announcement, I haven't sent any money etc. The seller also asked for my eBay user ID to initiate the transaction. I did provide it (I have enough strong password) to see what the response would be, they're attached below also. Note the address it comes from. eBay confirm this has NOTHING to do with them. I've also included the details he has put in for payment... notice the name Jason doesn't appear... So there you have it, tell your friends, tell your mum and dad, partner etc. Don't let these scumbags get away with this crap!

I think the brand of cooler is less important than the fitting location, how much you increase your oil capacity by, the oil used etc. I run a standard 13row Just Jap core with a Greddy relocator and a BTR thermostat. This is only a very mild power CA S13 so it doesn't generate a ton of heat. It'd probably be too small for a lot of you. On my first ever day at the track in the car the oil was hovering around 110-115 and it would have been a 25deg day tops. Not ideal giving I wasn't hammering the car - was only a drift day and I was learning very gingerly. I fitted all the above and located the core underneath the drivers headlight and vented the bumper to feed it and vented into the wheel arch so air would flow through properly. Next time at the track was a 35deg day and it was a proper track day so I was on 100% throttle for much more of the lap, oil temps didn't go past 95deg at the hottest and that was after 10lap stints where tyres/brakes where becoming the issue. I have no doubt that better brand coolers could do a better job row for row but when you can just buy the next size up in a cheaper core and get the same results and still save monet it's hard to go past. Space can be an issue of course and in this instance I would opt for a a better core if funds allow. For reference I also run a heavy duty PWR core on my BA for the gearbox to bypass the internal (prone to leaking) internal cooler and make it a bit happier when towing. No issues with either setup. You can always raise the bonnet at the rear and do some venting/ducting to assist. Both cheap things to do. Not sure if I'd wanna risk a second hand core though. Not when new cheap ones are..well so cheap

After a complete S15 rack, inc tie rods and tie rod ends. As a point of reference On Boost do them for $150 delivered to me (Albury 2640) with a 1mth warranty. Thing is I dunno hw long they have been out of the cars and with no fluid. If you have something better let me know, [email protected] or 0423 094463 or a PM is fine. Cheers

Hmm. Too many variables measurements wise blargh. I don't think it matters which way I go, some modification is going to be necessary, either to the bolt hole locations of my velo mounts on the bottom where it connects to the rails or the bride mount side holes where it lines up with my seat. To me this looks easier http://www.frsport.com/Bride-Type-MO-Super...S14_p_1225.html All I'd have to do would be drill some new holes in the bottom of my velo mounts where it connects to the rails. I see what you mean though with something more like this design http://www.japshop.co.uk/acatalog/EVO_8_Seats-Rails.html No issues with the lower hump part of the seat clearing the cross bar.

I've got a velo with the Velo side mounts bolted to it. They bolt to the side of the seat but have a 90 deg bend and mount flat to the frame I made up. These http://velo.websitestation-client.com/site...t%20bracket.jpg

That's good enough for me then. I'm not 100% clear on the types though. I notice there's superlow TYPE MO and YS etc. Does it matter?

Hmm, was it low enough for you Dane? I'm concerned about that pronounced hump close to the transmission tunnel.

Interesting. Brett From Revolution tells me the V8 teams are just using the exanding foam stuff from a spray can available at any hardware store and a rubbish bag. Seems a bit industrial lol

Cheers, my rule of thumb when replacing anything is new bushes anyway

The missus is keen to try her hand at the wheel of the mighty S13. Now this presents a problem, I'm the standard 6ft, she's about 5'6 or so. My seat, a Velo Podium, is currently fully fixed for me on a frame I made up using the factory mounting points and tabs from the old factory rail. Here's the dilemma, if I add some bolt holes in the frame for her we'd still be a good inch short of where she needs to be and I had the idea of the seat mold stuff they use in the V8's when they do enduros but I'm not sure what it is, where to get it, and cost etc. The other issue is having to unbolt the seat all the time to change positions if we share the car on the same day. The other option is to go something like a Bride superlow rail (the current frame has my helmet just clearing the roof lining) but from what I can see it puts the seat position very close to the driver side door, where as I adjusted the seating position to be central to the wheel - In an S13 you sit kind off to the right of the wheel in a factory seat. What are others doing to get around this?

This leads me to believe the outer seal in the rack is weeping under pressure? I assume this requires a rebuild? Bad side Good side

http://www.mmsport.com.au/products/1182/Pulse-PHB-400 Is this what u have Dane?

Always good to hear the opposing view. Do you think it's really worth the effort of removing the turbo on the CA or are you talking twin charged? Standard CA turbos are so small that there's almost no lag as it is.

Interesting to hear from someone who's done both. Interesting to hear, I'd of thought fitment would have been on par with a turbo install but that would depend on the type of supercharger. It seems my understanding of it all rings pretty true amongst others as well then. I stand by my comment to avoid that particular pod cast. "In Yank land the Supercharger is apparently king of all " Sorry I should have specifically pointed out that I was referring to the overtone of the podcast I was listening too. This is not my opinion and im not here advocating for the supercharger, just throwing it up for general discussion. Hence why this topic is not in the forced induction or motorsport section as a "How can I/Should I go about this for my car". Looks like what I thought to be the case seems to be the shared understanding. Glad I'm not going crazy.

Higher efficiency in regards to fuel usage? Would there really be that much of a difference on the track under WOT applications? Interesting... twin charge would be nice but I think the cost is somewhat prohibitive. I understand the fundamental differences in how they work but I'm wondering why if the only "con" is fuel economy, why it isn't done more often on race cars where fuel economy is not the highest priority in many cases. Interesrting stuff, same boost? Some more interesting stuff, what was found?

I've been trying out some podcasts on my phone and I downloaded some of the automative related ones from howstuffworks.com (don't waste your time). The one thing that did strike me as interesting was the podcast on Turbo's vs Supercharging. In Yank land the Supercharger is apparently king of all and you only ever have a turbo if you got one on the car when you bought it 0_o I've never owned a supercharged car but my understanding of the drawbacks was that it's a constant parasitic load even when you don't want the extra power (where as we can all drive "off boost" to an extent). There's far less room for adjustment boost wise, more boost = new pulley (or am I misinformed here?) and generally the cost of a supercharger kit is a fair stab above what we could do turbo wise - again that's my understanding not gopsel and really that understanding just comes from general reading. They do make some good points though, more linear power delivery, far less complexity in the system (when talking typical oil/water cooled turbo vs your basic sidemount supercharger). In hearing that it got me thinking, why aren't we all switching to superchargers for motorsport, supposedly easier tuning, less complexity, in some cases less heat and smoother power delivery has got to be a good thing for clutches, boxes, engine and box mounts, traction etc. I've intentionally left out the differences in lag as I'm talking more about motorsport where once you get going lag isn't really "too" much of an issue for a turbo car on the track. I'm just throwing it out there for general discussion not asking if I should do it

OK here's what I found. Car up on stands, me lying on my bak with the leadlight, GF turning the wheel. Mechanically I can't see any free play, I had the GF do fast and slow turns full lock in both directions with and without me providing enough resistence on the wheels to stop her being able to turn the wheel in the cabin. I also had her hold the wheel hard while I tried to make each wheel turn, no freeplay there. What I did find is that one rack boot has a split in it and inside I can see brown grease. Without cmoparing to the other one I'm not sure if it should be that colour or not. If it shouldn't be covered in crud then I suspect that when the rack has a lot of pressure on it there may be fluid getting past the outer seal and into the boot, however the boot didn't show signs of large amounts of fluid - maybe early days for the leak. I also noted that the inner part of the tie rod where it joins the rack has been bent back, I'd say from hitting the rack on full lock turns too hard. I also note that the outer tie rod ends/pins that connect to the wheel hub assembly have split boots on both sides. I'm a bit vague on terminology, sorry. Thougths? Mechanically it looks and feels ok. A mate was telling me there's a valve where the steering column knuckle joins the top of the rack and they are common failure points just for something extra to consider. Thanks so far guys

Freeplay

It's on stands at the moment and I'll be doing that but when it was intermittent and seemed relative to lateral load on the car durnig cornering. Fluid is standard colour, didn't look any different to what came out of the bottle when I topped it up and didn't smell burnt. I'll be getting under it in the next few days.

Hi guys, At the last DECA I was giving the car a workout and found that the steering developed an intermittent dead spot in the centre. I had the passenger grab the wheel at one stage to prove I wasn't going crazy. The car is an S13, CA, and I'd assume it's the original rack, it certainly doesn't look reco'd. I'm assuming rack as the tie rod ends looked fine, no bends, threads are good, no free play that I can easily get to happen up on stands. Rack mounts and bushes "look" OK to me but I'm no steering specialist. I topped up the power steering reservoir and thought it got better but then it came back, it seem to be when loading the car up hard side to side on the skid pan, which to me implied a hydraulic issue in the rack. The boots on the end of the rack aren't filled with fluid so I'd say the seals at the end of the rack are good, no leaks that I can see. At it's worst there's probably a good 20-25 degrees dead space in each direction from centre. I had 235 semi's on it at the time, -2.5 deg camber. Can't recall toe/castor settings right now. Thoughts?

Has anyone had experience with the battery boxes on ebay ranging from 40-60 that have a circuit breaker built in?

Supposed to be working + skim reading = ADHD + Crack like behaviour