MookRG

I've got 4 tyres to sell, they came on rims i bought recently but i'm putting semis on so i dont need them, they are pretty much new as you can see in the pics, i've driven around 500k's on them since i got them, i only have pics of two of them sorry. Looking for $600 for all four but i am willing to seperate into pairs, freight at buyers expense Contact me on e-mail: [email protected]

What sort of front bar does it have?

fair enough, will be interested to see how you go. Looks like it'll be a good thing when its done. Good work

I've got a 25 with 26 internals with a 6 Boost and 44 tial, i dont have any creep issues, runs really well now. On another point, did you think about keeping the stock inlet manifold???? the reason i say this is on my newest engine, we used a Greddy plenum, tomei cams and 26 internals, when it was tuned the engine was extremely lazy, didnt come on full power till around 5k, after much deliberation we decided to put the stock manifold back on, now the car has picked up around a 1000rpm of useful power and it hasn't even been retuned yet. I dont mean to hijack your build thread, just curious.

I'm pretty sure the 32 in the first post is Creatd's old from a few years ago, it was imported from japan like that, it was one wild bit of gear from what i remember

I like your style of guard mods, overfenders = FAIL. I'll be doing the same to my 33 Gts-t soon, just bought 18x10 +12's for it Keep up the good work.

SOLD..... to me

3540 has a .82 housing, original engine made an almost flat power curve from around 4500 to the rev limit, so it probly made around the 280kw mark at 4000rpm, i dont have a copy of the dyno sheet, i might ring Rob at Creatd and get a copy for you. It was very savage power. But very fun.

Hey guys we have recently built a new engine for my drifter and we are having issues with the engine being very lazy, i'll list the details of the engine then I'll go into more detail about it's performance. RB25 Block with 26 crank, rods and 0.5 mm oversized pistons, all factory nissan parts Rb 25 Tomei poncams inlet and exhaust Greddy plenum 750cc injectors splitfire coils 6boost manifold with 3540 and 44mm tial gate Power FC With the new engine it makes 340Kw at the wheels on 20psi, though it doesnt feel like it, the old completely stock internaled had only 300kw at the wheels on the same boost but it felt crazy compared to the new one. The stock motor made 300kw by 4000 rpm and held it all the way to 8300, where as the new engine acts really strangely, it is making 15psi by 4000rpm but doesnt actually make any power till 5000 at the earliest. We are thinking it might be a mismatch in the 25 cams to the extra capacity of the 26, we are going to try putting adjustable cams in it over the next few weeks, but other than that i have no idea how to fix the laziness of the engine. The other issue we are having is after the car has been driven and is up to track temperature the lifters start to play up, they rattle really loudly and the engine starts to miss badly, we've put a 1.2mm restrictors into the oil feeds, could this be too much, the lifters never made any noise in the old engine. Any help will be greatly appreciated cause it is well and truely doing my head in.

Hey man, i'll give you 200 bucks cause they are a gay gold colour.

Fronts

As requested, 235/40 with around 2.5 camber

Man up for christ sake, i run 18x9 with a 0 offset on my 33, fit just nice with a pull of the guard.

Am planning on doing offset bushes, but the engine let go so suspension mods have taken a back seat for the moment

Really??? Interesting, looks like i will try the offset bushes and see what heappens then, can only make it handle abetter i spose

everything i can think of, subframe mounts to the wheels, to the hubs, lenght of control arms, etc etc. it confused the hell out of me till i put the wheels back on, when i measure between any two points on the cradle itself they are the same, it's only when i measure points between the body to cradle that any difference appears i even measured the guards thinking it might just be a shit panel.

Last time we took my car out we noticed that the tyres on the rear are sticking out 10mm further on the passenger side than the drivers side, we automatically assumed that the cradle bushes must be shagged, The car is also fitted with alloy lock rings on the cradle which should make the bushes redundant, i have since removed the lock rings to inspect the bushes and they are pretty much perfect, well as perfect as they can be in 15yr old car, I have measured pretty much everything i could under there and i have found that the cradle mounting bolts are not central to the car, everything else measured symetrical, i have no idea how this can be but it is Now my questions are... 1. Do i make offset solid bushes to relocate the cradle to the center or do i leave it where its is? 2. Will it effect the car measurably on the track either way?

Heres a pic of my 33 with 18x10.5 +22 TE37's on it, was running around .5 degrees camber for drift, think they had 245/40 KU36's on Ps sorry bout being on its side, dont know how to flip it.

Pretty sure that is the compliance plate

What happened to the motor, How much you want for it?

Pm sent bout Inlet Plenum, I found pics in the thread, was being lazy

Offsets are different dude, these ones are +15, the ones you mentioned are +28

How old are they?

so does that mean the reo is no good either? you only said side damaged

You got Pm