Simon-S14

yeah shame about that vac leak... I bet your knock sensors were working over time watched you do a lot of laps... car doesnt look like its suffering from lack of spring rate or under dampering issues... it does look more to be a wheel alignment/tyre pressure issue, and maybe push the car a little harder into turn 1 FWIW theres minimal body roll on the car considering you were running semi's

thanks for organising the BBQ mate, you bought so much shit its a shame bugger all ppl rocked up after saying they would

stick with genuine, as cubes said it pays to do a full head reco with some work while its off the block. Water vapour could be a prob, either way the head has to come off anyway

common to snap the pass side (torque side) best to get some poly mounts, theres a couple of traders selling them now

yeah a + 1 for a 25/30 hybrid also... bigger bang for your buck! Find a good cond stock bottom end that is known to be healthy, get a head, some GTR cams and regrind them larger (PM cubes for this) then with standard manifold run a GT3076 with the larger ex housing, IW and grab an RB20 ecu, rechip that (you'll be ditching the VCT anyway) and you'll make an easy 300 + rwkw reliably, keep the revs below 7000 and it should last a long time. motor $100-200 (for a s2-3 RB30 in good cond, only need bottom end) head $900-1000 cams + regrind $500 RB20 ecu $100 remap and tune $500 turbo + lines and dump $2.2K still got plenty money left to play with

clearly you need to go back to school and learn how to spell...

i will be there with my gf jenna

bump

organise another one i live near callington... so its on the way to mannum lol

thanks for that trent! good to know that my pump will do the job with a new turbo then

Will a GT3071R with T3 IW housing fit on a stock manifold with no spacer or do i need one? Cheers

they are pretty cheap.. usually 100 the pair

no disrespect but thats a load of crap inertia has nothing to do with efficiency, just responce time of the turbo

out of curiosity, whats the walbro good for at 13.8 volts in terms of rwkw?

try overfilling it will an extra L of oil to test that theory, if it still does it i would rule that out. How do you know the gauge is accurate?

WTF Just f*ken drive it!

Got a series 1 (the one with a steel comp wheel) Rb25 turbo in good cond, no smoke no shaft play and no noise for sale with the elbow and gasket. Elbow has been drilled and tapped with a fitting put in to take a boost signal from for the wastegate (like the RB20 set up) Price $350 firm Prefer to sell in SA but i guess i can box it up and send it if someone really wants it. PM or email me HERE

wont worry about slotteds either. just get a good set of 2nd hand rotors from an importer or grab some new rotors, they are about 150 the pair i think

Thought i'd give it a go as a cheap upgrade... Thanks to Adelaide Jap for the parts. Pretty easy to do but i thought i'd help others by making a short guide on how to go about doing it. First of all, take the wheel off Castor rod needs to come off, undo the two nuts on the underside of the LCA, they are a 17mm. Then undo the Bolt for the LCA on the crossmember, its also a 17mm. This will be bloody tight so use a spanner on one side and a big breaker bar on the otherside and undo it, take the nut off, you prob wont be able to get the bolt out easy yet so just leave it for now. Then you need to undo the large nut on the bottom of the hub when the ball joint for the LCA is, there is a split pin through this so take that out first then use a 22mm spanner to undo the nut, once the nut is off, you will need a LARGE hammer to hit the side of the hub hard several times to make the ball joint pop out. Never hit the threaded section of the ball joint. once its popped out the bolt will come out of the crossmember easy. then your arm is out! Here you can see the two arms side by side, the R33 one is longer Here there are some slight differences, the lock on the R33 arm is deeper which gives a bit more angle, if your a drifter like me the lock stop on your r32 arm will be hammered out.. like mine Apart from this everything else is the same and the arm just bolts straight in. Installation is the reverse of the above. Once installed, you'll have major toe out due to the toe being the same and running longer arms, I got a white texta marked the top of the tie rod's then cracked the big 22mm locking nut, i then turned the tie rod a total of 7 times (anti clockwise, to make them longer) on both sides, then locked the nut and measured it up... its close enough to drive to a wheel aligner on now. (took me a few goes to get the toe right, but the total number was 7 full turns) I put some stock rims on with rubber i dont care about, my wheel aligner is 50 kms from where i live so i didnt want my 17's being scrubbed out on the freeway. I suggest that an alignment is carried out straight away as both toe AND castor will be out. heres what it looks like with the R33 arms in, As you can see theres a bit more camber, i took it for a drive and even the toe is out it feels really good. Reasons for doing this was that my 32 is a drift car, so the extra track and camber would be benificial, there appears to be slightly more lock also which is a bonus. Enjoy!

Thought i'd give it a go as a cheap upgrade... Thanks to Adelaide Jap for the parts. Pretty easy to do but i thought i'd help others by making a short guide on how to go about doing it. First of all, take the wheel off Castor rod needs to come off, undo the two nuts on the underside of the LCA, they are a 17mm. Then undo the Bolt for the LCA on the crossmember, its also a 17mm. This will be bloody tight so use a spanner on one side and a big breaker bar on the otherside and undo it, take the nut off, you prob wont be able to get the bolt out easy yet so just leave it for now. Then you need to undo the large nut on the bottom of the hub when the ball joint for the LCA is, there is a split pin through this so take that out first then use a 22mm spanner to undo the nut, once the nut is off, you will need a LARGE hammer to hit the side of the hub hard several times to make the ball joint pop out. Never hit the threaded section of the ball joint. once its popped out the bolt will come out of the crossmember easy. then your arm is out! Here you can see the two arms side by side, the R33 one is longer Here there are some slight differences, the lock on the R33 arm is deeper which gives a bit more angle, if your a drifter like me the lock stop on your r32 arm will be hammered out.. like mine Apart from this everything else is the same and the arm just bolts straight in. Installation is the reverse of the above. Once installed, you'll have major toe out due to the toe being the same and running longer arms, I got a white texta marked the top of the tie rod's then cracked the big 22mm locking nut, i then turned the tie rod a total of 7 times (anti clockwise, to make them longer) on both sides, then locked the nut and measured it up... its close enough to drive to a wheel aligner on now. (took me a few goes to get the toe right, but the total number was 7 full turns) I put some stock rims on with rubber i dont care about, my wheel aligner is 50 kms from where i live so i didnt want my 17's being scrubbed out on the freeway. I suggest that an alignment is carried out straight away as both toe AND castor will be out. heres what it looks like with the R33 arms in, As you can see theres a bit more camber, i took it for a drive and even the toe is out it feels really good. Reasons for doing this was that my 32 is a drift car, so the extra track and camber would be benificial, there appears to be slightly more lock also which is a bonus. Enjoy!

worse comes to wose you'll be up for a custom bit... which isnt that hard to do really.

i too have seen that dip in plenty of RB25 dyno's... and thats with aftermarket ECU's, stock bottom ends and supporting gear with decent turbo's... any idea what the cause is there?? Huddy: the prob with making 300 rwkw with your set us is you have the bottom end support to do it... but the head is still an rb20 head... it just wont flow the air to support the big numbers... no matter what turbo you run.

dont waste your time with that Emanage shit, just remap the stock ECU with awesome results

Labour - Pay simon 10X bottles of beam black

cause i'd sound like the fags i moderator on ns.com