Simon-S14

0.83 rear housing. Normally high boost is around 22 psi and low boost 15 psi

and yes stewy... RB30E has no squirters.. reckon its of any concern to my motors in the battle car or my s14? not really lol

na rods and DET rods are the same, in fact the whole bottom end construction is the same, just the CR changes. also boost pressure doesnt kill engines (to a point) rather its excess or uncontrolled cyln pressures that does. if you can get the tune right and control the combustion you'll have a happy engine that runs right! thankfully Nisskid and myself have a tuner who is more then switched on enough to do the job. case in point is my own car that just keeps going and making 400+ rwkw on stock rb30e bottom end

Sure Did. Bakes hard lol

2x m6 washers is what i used to shim my 30e pump

got mine quickly touched up on the dyno, ran on 25 psi to see what it could do... makes great power. 35r on Garage 7 steampipe manifold Tial 44mm gate e85 link ecu stock RB30e bottom end 26 head

got mine quickly touched up on the dyno, ran on 25 psi to see what it could do... makes great power. 35r on Garage 7 steampipe manifold Tial 44mm gate e85 link ecu stock RB30e bottom end 26 head

got mine quickly touched up on the dyno, ran on 25 psi to see what it could do... makes great power. 35r on Garage 7 steampipe manifold Tial 44mm gate e85 link ecu stock RB30e bottom end 26 head

The standard balancer for sure. Would not go near a Ross

Those rack spacers ate not correct. You need to run a bolt on spacer on both sides otherwise your geometry will never be correct

The 350z box hands down. The s15 box won't last 5 mins

buy one from a running R31 that you can do comp check on, check the overall condition on things and then establish that its a good one. in saying that... i got lucky with the bottom end in my s14, I paid 20 bucks for the bottom end with no head on it. got it home, checked it all over, pulled a couple of bearing caps off and decided that i'd give it a go. well that was 2 years ago now haha still going strong

40 psi would be fine on a internally stock RB30 if the tuning and support system is spot on boost doesnt kill engines

in my 12 years experience, my opinion now days is f**k it.. get a good stock motor and put quality supporting mods on it and quality tuning with e85 and make good strong reliable power. ive built motor and blown them up, due to the silly little things that can go wrong, so financially im better off running an OEM motor with mods. my car is proof of that, stock RB30 with 26 head, all supporting mods. 412 rwkw on 22 psi and it gets thrashed...HARD

Keep the neo motor. Can push 400rwkw from then easy and cheaply with out opening up motor

No. R33 rad is taller

maybe its not really related to the pump. start by checking plugs and coils

Yes they need a full 13.8v to flow at their rated capacity

yeah the rb30's take a punishment. BTW the OEM headgaskets are the best to use on a budget. those cheap fibre ones from ACL or whatever are junk

Looks like detonation caused that HG to blow out

Lol that's the craziest thing I've heard. just Because it runs Ok at 8psi on the dyno doesn't mean that in the real world it might not boost spike and max your afm out and cause detonation. Which is exactly what's happened. 500cc more is a biy more then winding the boost up. The comp ratio has changed. The airflow characteristics have changed all throughout the load and rev range. It's never going to work safely on a stock 33 ecu. Do yourself a favor and get the head checked. Gasket replaced and put a tunable ecu in it

last time i bought one it was about 38 bucks for a brand new non genuine slave

Don't sand. If you pull it apart and it looks scored or damaged in any way then it needs to be replaced. If it looks fine then reassy with clean brake fluid as a lube

Could be several things. Head not flat Deck not flat Head bolt not torqued correctly Detonation