Simon-S14

you'll need to lock the ignition on first. under triggers > calibrate > set base timing follow the onscreen instruction

honestly i'd bite the bullet and just ditch the E11v2, they are so old these days and completly junk. Even going back to a nistune would be lightyears ahead

044's are fine with e85, ive been running them for years with zero issues on e85. 040 however does not like it and will fail early. Throw the wolf in the bin, even a Nistune would do a better job at running it

sure. plug it in, turn the ignition on, turn the CAS by hand, you should hear the pump prime, injectors click and coil packs fire. that means its working.

its not difficult... it goes between the actuator and a pressure source that is BEFORE the throttle body, so this can be the hot side or anywhere after the intercooler.

044 would have to be one of the most reliable pumps to use on E85. 040 on the other hand die left right and centre on e85

boost doesnt kill Headgaskets... cyln pressure does. Well uncontrolled sudden bursts of pressure is what really kills them. stock gasket and bolts good for 400 rwkw no worries.

a t78 isnt even that big... it was probably more to do with your tune then the size of the turbo

updates: havent really got any updates... car has been running well. rb30e still going strong. had two lift pump failures and lean outs and it still kicks along. about to do an overhaul on the presentation of the car cause its gotten rough as hell from all the drift action its seen lately. oh and i bought an R33 for practice/schools

Wiring is all new and more then up to the job. Tank is clean and free of any crud. Both filter socks were clean also. A 400lph pump is excessive for a lift pump however so after something else

Hey guys Ive had several intank pump failures and its driving me up the wall, not to mention unhealthy for my motor, my RB30det has been through several big lean outs now.... pump 1 was a Walbro gs255 set up on the cradle in an s14 tank and died after 11 months, it seized and drew too much current and blew fuses, took this out and replaced with pump 2 pump 2 was a areomotive stealth e85 pump which lasted 3 days, pump stopped pumping all of a sudden, no blown fuses, car was getting thrashed and started starving, took pump out and on the body of the pump there are two melted sections from something failed internally. stumped! Im after a pump thats effective for a lift pump in an e85 situation... help me out here

pressure is the opposite to flow, by having the restrictor in place you reduce the flow to the required amount but the pressure goes up,

its a oil filter, and its on the water fitting. Oil is the top one

could be 10 psi out.. FWIW mine is around 70psi from dead cold at idle which drops to around 45psi after a few mins idling

flat spotting when cold on e85 is gonna happen with no tune. you'll find that once warmed up it will run much better. this is something that once tuned, wont be an issue. comp test wont give you any real guide for CR 50-60 psi on cold start is a tad low. what pump? RB30e? is the relief valve spring bumped up a bit? and also how accurate is the gauge

most people just use an RB30e pump which works fine. i have in the past used rb25 pumps and filled the hole with sikaflex, zero issues also. It sounds like yours wasnt installed correctly as even with a bolt out it shouldnt pour water out like that. there's still a sealing surface on the pump and block, did you use the gasket? i never use gaskets i clean the block thoroughly and use proper sealant and then mount the pump

is your builder from tas by any chance

true you can, but on a haltech it wont let you create many 3d tables that you want to do. only ones it has selected for you

out of the 3, the Link is the best, i have gone from a Haltech to a link and the difference is night and day, the amount of features and ability to create 3d tables for just about anything you can think of makes the haltech look like a microtech. Nistune is great, but still limited, you can do so much in the way of engine protection etc with a Link. for example i have fuel pressure, Oil pressure and overboost engine protection features enabled, not to mention RPM limits vrs coolant temps so you cant thrash it hard until its reached a certain temp.

Nistune have released it now, ive seen it all in action and its all pretty impressive!

30 pump is prettybulletproof. you can do the same to the relief on the 30 pump, remove large bolt. add 2x m10 washers on top of spring. refit.

which part of the map? all of it your best bet is to contact your tuner and get them to put some sort of base mape in it for you to suit your bolt ons, but personally i'd have it towed to tuner and then let them do it all from scratch without the added stress of trying to drive something that runs mega rich

yeah they more or less have done all the set up on my car, i put the accusump in and came up with the design/location, they did the electronics side of things.. G7 have also tuned my car and its proven to be an awesome package!

i run an accusump and its faultless. I also run an oil pressure switch on the oil pump as well as an oil pressure sender further down the line, both provide info to the Link g4+ ecu and if it senses the oil pressure switch has been triggered but oil pressure is still up (worst case oil pump failure, accusump discharging) then it engages engine protection and shuts it down. along with a big red light. Not bad protection for my 20 dollar bottom end

can buy whole R31's for 400 bucks... driving and all. take motor out, sell r31 shell for 200... laughing thats how you find a good ish one