Fixxxer

I use Mobil Synth S 10W40. Used it in my rotor, and now use it in my 32 gtst. Don't have any probs. Cheapish ($30), but not nasty. Just bought another 2 x 5L yesterday at Repco's sale. Fixxxer

Bumpity

Item: Kicker ZR360 amp Location: Brisbane Item Condition: Good Reason for Selling: Never used it after I bought it, don't need it now Price and Payment Conditions: $275 Extra Info: Don't really need this amp, its just gathering dust, but it won't be sold for a rediculous price either Contact Details: Reply here, or PM me, Prefer Brisbane pickup, its heavy and I have no box for it, buyer pays shipping otherwise KICKER ZR360 stated spec's: 90wrms x 2 @ 4ohm...... 360wrms bridged 4ohm mono. 3-4yrs old, In my opinion, and to a lot of people in the know, these are the best amps kicker ever made, are very very very underrated, are huge and strong. The 80 amp fuse says it all. Actual tested specs on another ZR360 are shown below (I don't have an actual birth certificate cause the original owner did not have it). But for ease, the summary is: 4ohm - 141.3 watts RMS x 2 @ 14 volts 2ohms- 257.4 watts RMS x 2 @ 14 volts Bridged channels - 1 x 574.2 watts RMS (2ohm) and 1 x 725.4 watts RMS (1ohm) Yes, these amps can be driven down to 1ohm, good for hooking up 2 x 4ohm subs together (or any other configuration). The amp comes with a standard module docking port which plays all frequencies as far as I am aware. Use your headunits subwoofer RCA outputs to turn it into a sub amp, conversely use front or rear RCA's with your headunits frequency cutoffs for your other speakers. Gold plated terminals, 4 gauge power inputs, 8 gauge speaker outputs, etc... Fixxxer

I might try cleaning the ingnitor connections with contact cleaner and see if that makes it go away, although the miss only seemed to develop after I changed the sparkies. My miss happens at any time, even when cold. The miss doesn't get any worse when hot. Fixxxer

Hey there, This seems to be a relatively common problem with the BCPR6ES (0.8mm) plugs. I too, developed a miss at idle (not straight away but after about a week or so I had the car dyno run and I started to notice it immediately after that). When I replaced the plugs I noticed major issues with arcing (missfiring) on the coils, but no cracks could be seen, otherwise the coils looked almost new. The BCPR6ES plugs, gapped at 0.8mm solved my major missfiring issues, but I seemed to develop this slight missing on idle (its more of a random miss than anythign repetitive). I've learned to live with it, because I'd rather a slight miss on idle than not being able to rev the car. Not sure if its the BCPR6ES plugs that may be the problem, or we all have similar coild problems (which seems likely). Although I can't work out why the coil would die on idle, but nowhere else in the rev range. Fixxxer

Made 229HP@wheels at 0.82bar, held that all the way to redline I'm sure, with a ProfecA. Think it made 247HP at 1bar, that was with the original owner, not the guy I bought it off. Might have been a few years ago but the graphs in the car. Fixxxer

Hey there, So for all you guys that have had the turbo die on you, was the turbo ever subjected to continuous high heat levels, i.e., drifting, track racing, or continuous on/off throttle runs through the gears in short periods of time? The R34 turbo's must have a small efficiency range if they start to die around 12psi, just seems low to me, and a very quick drop off. You'd be able to verify this on a dyno by looking at inlet temps at various psi. The R33 turbo on my RB20 does make a fair bit more on the dyno at 1Bar (14.7psi) as opposed to 0.8bar (12psi), but it was on different dyno's, but using the same shootout mode. Inlet temps did not skyrocket either. R33 turbo's seem to be still good at 15ish- psi..... whereas R34's seem to go off at 12. Fixxxer

100psi does sound low, but they are all the same. The RB20's already run a lowish compression (8.5:1 I think) and the thicker metal head gasket is lowering that even more so it will seem very laggy with a big cooler on there. 14.7psi will go a lot harder Fixxxer

To give such a big difference in times I'd say the tyres would have to be slipping quite dramatically, to a point where I'm sure the driver would know. I'd say in the auto with that power, traction wouldn't be too much of a problem. SkylineGirl could answer that for us. Do you have your old 17" wheels?? Were they light weight wheels? The difference in weight between the 17" and the 19" rims will play a part. Also, if the new 19" rims are in fact "taller" (I couldn't be bothered working out the diameter, I'm at work) then this will also have a slight effect on the gearing. Effectively lowering your diff ratio. The slight increase in wheel diameter and wheel weight may be combining to make the car accelerate slower, especially from a standstill where torque is low. As we all know, the factor to getting a good elapsed time at the drags is a good launch/start. Every 0.1 sec better 60ft time equates to double that saving at the end of the 1/4mile. Ohhh and you said you are timing it yourself, could be some slight errors there too. Fixxxer

I would suggest you read the "missfire" post right at the top of this board. I don't think they fail at the drop of a hat, or from poor maintenance, but heat has a lot to do with it I suspect. Some coils may develop small cracks in the casing which can lead to missfires. There can also be a little corrosion/gunk formed with the connection, but read the thread and you'll know where to look. Fixxxer

Mine is even more of a dud then those, I have to set mine to FC "Fast Cool" or whatever it means to have my aircon blow cold air. At all other times it blows not warm air, but hot air, even with just the fan on. I'll get around to trying to fix it one day. Fixxxer

Wingnam, 15A is what is recommended for the headlights, I would not go higher amperage than this because you are just masking a deeper problem and potentially could do a lot of damage. Also, a 20A fuse would not help because my fuse is actually melting, when I pull the fuse out it is warped and melted but the actual fuse still seems to be intact. Fixxxer

I can't tell if its ever been hit on that side before. Certainly not since I've had it. I'll get in there and clean up the fuse connections and see if anything looks dodgy with connections/wires. If I can't see anything and it keeps happening then it'll have to go to an auto elec I suppose.... Thanks for your help. Fixxxer

Hi everyone. Well my R32 GTST has had some headlight problems ever since I got it. When i first went to use my high beams after I bought it, the headlight fuse blew leaving me with no headlights at all. I replaced the fuse/s and everything seemed fine (it was dark). I've pretty much avoided any use of the high beams since, which is fine. But the headlights have always seemed very 'dim', as in not lighting up the road much at night. Since then the fuse has blown again just on normal operation of the low-beams. I replaced the fuse but noticed that the fuse (blue colour 15A) has actually melted and warped!! And there seems to be a lot of cr@p all over the fuse holder connection, which I gather may be melted plastic. Anyone know what would cause this??? Anyone had this problem before??? Ohh and the melting only seems to happen to one headlight fuse, not the other. Fixxxer

Thanks for the info FHRX and I understand all those tiny details that go into an award winning system. I'm in no way an audiophile and I definately haven't heard the best bass there is to hear, but I absolutely enjoy listening to that 12" powerplant in that prefab box. To me its all I need. Fixxxer

The amp for free..... yes I don't believe it, haha Ohhh yep, my mistake, it is 4ohm per coil. Just go easy with the gains on that amp. You won't be disappointed with the powerplant. Just remember though, I think the Johna Lomu subs are also DVC (4ohms per coil). With 2 subs you won't be able to make that magical 2ohm rating for your amp. But if its for free then who cares. I'd think about grabbing another 12" powerplant in the future if you want low low bass, a lot cheaper too Happy bumping..... Fixxxer

You should be able to find some pre-fab boxes that will fit. Both my friends have the powerplant 12" in a ported pre-fab box and there is absolutely nothing wrong with the sound. Both had space restrictions meaning they had to find an odd shaped box. Autobarn had one which is thin and a little taller which means you can install it upright if you only have a thin space, or lay it on its back if you don't have much height to play with. It sorta looks like this with the back a little sloped aswell: __ | \ | \ |__/ But seriously, just design a box of your own with the dimensions that will best fit your application, its not that hard. A box like above is more difficult to make if you don't have the right tools because of the angle joins thats why my friends both went ported pre-fab'd boxes. By the way, I'm very impressed with the powerplant subs, they play very hard when given the 400-500WRMS and handle the low lows with ease. That amp you have chosen may not be the best choice (unless u want to expand later on with more subs). The DVC is 2+2 ohm meaning you can either run it at 1ohm or 4ohms, which will be what is shown to the amp. I Doubt that amp will be able to run at 1-ohm (if it can then great but it will be massively overpowering the sub), or you can run it at 4ohms and it will probably give you 600WRMS and be ok for the sub (but still take it easy). Essentially what I'm trying to say is that you should be able to find a cheaper amp for your current needs, unless you want to get more subs in the future. Fixxxer

Hey guys, I bought my R32 skyline last year and the guy threw in the 'heavy duty' clutch he had, but had not installed yet. So far I've managed to drive the car around without any troubles with clutch slip. Well today it most definately slipped. I started from standstill at a set of lights going up a reasonably steep hill, the nob infront decided to do a u-turn where he couldn't so I gave it heaps in first gear (no launch really) but all the way to 6.5-7G's and then quick into 2nd and the tacho shot up like a gun and I didn't go anywhere really, and a nice smell afterwards. Its never done that before but I'm usually more kind on the 1st to 2nd shift and the hill probably didn't help with loading it up. Anyways, my question is, can anyone help with identifying the clutch I have? All it says is R1938N on the side of the PBR/Clutch Industries box - New Clutch Kit. Its not a button or anything, just a normal face clutch with the sprung centre (not solid). Anyone help???? I don't want to install the clutch if its just a stocko relacement or something. It has to hold around the 175 rwkw mark, thats what it makes now on 12psi, but I'd really like it to hold 190-200 rwkw just to be safe if I turn the boost up a little more on the odd occasion. Fixxxer

Is this with the car running??? Something is definately wrong there, especially if the car is running. How old is your battery?? Do your headlights or internal car lights dim at all when you turn your indicators on? Fixxxer

I had mine dyno'd at 173KW (229HP). RB20DET Just the usual bolt ons + R33 turbo and old Profec EBC which held 0.8bar (12psi) all the way. The old owner had it dyno'd at 188KW at 1Bar a while ago, but I'm not too keen to run it that high. Fixxxer

At 165,000 the engines probably starting to get a little tired.... depending on how its been cared for over the years. If your looking at doing more than the usual intake, FMIC, Exhaust and keeping the stock turbo (i.e., under 200KW@wheels) then you should be looking into a freshen up. I'd do a compression test anyways. Fixxxer

From what I've read up on here, I think anything over stock boost and you could potentially run into problems, it depends on the condition of your turbo. I have read that r32 turbo's are a little safer to run more psi than say a r33 turbo. I think a lot of guys on here run 10-12psi on their R32 and haven't had too many problems I'd do a search on what psi the boost cut comes in on a r32 aswell.... If you boost it up, you might hit the fuel/boost cut. Fixxxer

Nice amps You've got 3 ZR240's in your car???... do the lights dim cause these are power hungry mofo's. I had a ZR240, pretty much sold it to a friend but I've kept the other, my ZR360. I may eventually throw it in my 'line. Have you tried loading your 240 down to 1ohm to get the most out of it? ZR600's are very thin on the ground.... Fixxxer

I went through JustCars cause I had my old car insured through them. If I remember correctly it was around $910 for full comprehensive for my 32 GTST with a number of mods. Intake, Ex, FMIC, boost controller, 18" mags, lowered, etc. Also got a great agreed value for the car. Tip for people (since I know people in the insurance business) - If you ask for an agreed value (or they tell you what is will be insured for) tell them that you're aware most insurance places offer +5% over market value if the vehicle is in good condition. I told the girl that over the phone, and also offered to have the vehicle inspected. The original $14,000 value was upped to $16,000 after she "talked to support". They also insured my 18" wheels, which I never thought they did at JustCars, nice I think the excess is around $1100, just because there is a non-removeable excess on the car of $700 or something. Fixxxer

Just checked them out, 2400w max, 1200WRMS, a serious sub no doubt, and cheap too, $259.99 US retail price. Dual 2ohm voice coil. A good, cheap sub for the boomers out there.