Fixxxer

We need to work out what configuration you had before, and what configuration you have tried to do now. Do you have a 4 channel amp? If so, and as said by travb81, you should bridge 2 channels to run the sub, and you should NOT bridge the rear speakers, just run one speaker off one amp channel. Try it and see how you go. Fixxxer

Reset your computer, see if that helps. Fixxxer

As stated above, United Boost98 is an E10 fuel (10%) ethanol. You should not be seeing any more km per tank due to lower energy. Ethanol in fuel will boost RON, but won't do much to the MON of a fuel at all. RON controls low speed, high load engine activity, whereas MON controls high speed, low load engine activity. Either way you look at it, ethanol based fuels with the same RON will be an 'inferior' fuel and i'm not willing to use it in my engine. Vpower 100RON may be an exception, due to it being VPower98 with ethanol to boost RON to 100 as far as I am aware. Fixxxer

To continue on from what I was saying before, and what I think happens is that the BOV will release pressure or 'boost' in the pipes after a gearchange. After getting back on the gas again, the throttle is reopened, turbo shaft speed has also decreased by being off the gas (by how much I don't know), but the pressurised air that was in there just before the gearchange is gone/vented. The turbo has to then build pressure in the system, which shows up as a hesitation on quick gearchanges. Therefore I think that a large FMIC setup with large pipes will exacerbate this problem. Fixxxer

Mine does this aswell, but only when changing gears fast (it hesitates for a split second before power comes on strong). I always put it down to the BOV not letting enough air out on gearchanges when the throttle is closed, stopping the flow of air to the engine for a split second. That air then has to be brought back to speed once the throttle is opened after the gearchange, hence the slight hesistation before power comes on (lack of air speed initially). I could be totally wrong though. Fixxxer

Hey guys, just an update. As said before I had the end (top) tank replaced. The engine tested fine, did a CO2 test and it came back perfect, so no engine damage *phew*. I think I have been driving around for a long time (winter and last summer) with very little water (due to a stuffed water pump leaking profusely through the weep hole). The temp needle never went over half way, even in hot weather and stop/start driving into the city every morning/afternoon. When the water pump was replaced it was noted there was very little water. I think the car has been continually running hot pretty much since I got the car, and why I think the end tank finally gave out after continually running hot. I will check the radiator fluid more regulalry from now on, because I can't trust the temp needle at all. Fixxxer

I decided to go with a replaced top end tank, not the best solution, but is relatively cheap and I get the car back on the road quick smart, which is my main aim. Fixxxer

No oil temp gauge on my car, just the oil pressure, which seems to be dodgy on the odd occasion aswell (sometimes idles at 2 on the gauge, sometimes about 1/2 that. So these can be repaired easily?? Well thats something I guess. Fixxxer

Ok anyways, just had my car serviced a week or two ago. New coolant and new water pump. Driving home yesterday I noticed some white smoke drift past from near the front of the car while stopped for a moment, because I was close to the car infront, I just passed it off as some random smoke from the car infront or from beside me (3lane each way road). Thought I should keep an eye on the temp and oil pressure gauges just incase. Didn't see anything else until about a minute or two later when I saw white smoke coming from the bonnet, took it straight out of gear (it stalled then) and pulled over. I was watching temp gauge regularly (every 20 sec or so) before that and didn't notice a change in needle position prior to this. Check radiator, zero coolant in the radiator. Got a tow. Problem found this morning was a crack in the plastic radiator end tank, apparently drained all coolant out, no coolant circulating may be why the temp needle didn't seem to change. Didn't notice any white smoke out back of car while driving (although I don't look out the back much, and have dark 20% tint). Is the random cracking of plastic end tanks common in R32's, skylines? What are my options, 2nd hand radiator (probably run into same problem), new radiator $$$$??? Car is being tested tomorrow morning to see if internal damage is a result of the overheating.... poor compression, blown head gasket, etc.... I'd hate to lose an engine on something this stupid. ANyways, gimme your feedback... Fixxxer

You said up top that you tried both front speakers from the left channel and they were both low in volume, so that means that your speakers are fine right?? The amp tested fine at the shop aswell, so it doesn't seem like they are the problems, its further up the chain. Tried a different set of RCA's? Maybe its your headunit RCA outputs, try running one RCA at a time to the amp (and split the one RCA into the two inputs on the amp, you'll need a splitter). Try it on left channel, then right channel and see if there is a difference. Fixxxer

I've had the same problem for ages, it will blow hot hot air at any temp setting. I just use the 'FC' function (hold down the cold button for 3 seconds at 18 degrees) on the aircon to get cold air when I need it..... stuff the climate control, I either want it hot, or cold, there is no inbetween If it starts to only blow hot air in any mode, then I'll have to do something about it. Fixxxer

Hi guys, Interested to know if an RB20DE clutch/flywheel is smaller in diameter and 'hat' size to a RB20DET clutch/flywheel? I gather that a RB25DET clutches are the same physical size because RB20DET and RB25DET engines can use the same flywheel. Can I use a heavy duty RB20DET clutch in a RB20 atmo gearbox? Fixxxer

No wasn't too late at all.... We have picked up another kit from another supplier for around half the price, with the same belt (Gates racing) and the bearings/pulleys + cam/crank seals, go figure...... Thanks all. Fixxxer

Hey guys, After finding out my water pump was indeed leaking I have decided to go ahead with a timing belt change + idler bearings while its easy to do. My mate who's doing it all at the moment asked for a timing belt kit, which consists of a Gates timing belt, 2 bearings?? = idler and something else I guess, and 3 'fields' (don't ask me what they are but he said they are cheap as chips). Anyways, the bill for the kit comes to over $500 (think he said $550 for the kit) which to me sounds surprisingly high. Is this a rip or what?? I was thinking a timing belt is around the $130 mark, and the idler stuff was around $30 each, and the fields arn't much at all, so around $220-250 for the whole deal, not over $500??? Whats the deal? Is this right? To make it worse, only one bearing was sent with the kit anyways....... Fixxxer

Like I said, I don't know exactly how it all works electrically internally in the amp, but what you're saying is that firing the 2 hoses at the tree will give you double the volume of water, say 2 x 90 L.... =180 L but it doesn't explain the quadrupling of the 'volume of water' i.e., power, that most amps will make when run in 'bridged' mode, i.e., those 2 x 90 L hoses will make 360 L x 1. This is undeniable and proven in real life a million times over. Anyways, I think we have started our own thread..... I would recommend that he stick with what he had planned. Fixxxer

Hi MtopxSectret6, Good testing, I have never tried this test proceedure or claim to know exactly how it all works internally in an amp, I only know what works in terms of matching subs to amps in real life practice applications and what I have researched/read in tech magazines. I think you may be best to test power output as your testing doesn't seem to show what I am explaining. I look at it like I explained before, just like a dual voice coil sub, by paralleling the coils you get half the resistance (load), I look at it as if you are paralleling the resistance of the amps channels, hence half the resistance. This explains that on the vast majority of amps (that are stable at 2ohm), they will approximately double their output when bridged to a 4ohm (subwoofer) load, i.e., 2 x 90 WRMS @ 4ohm amp should make approximately 360 WRMS x 1 when bridged, it is not 2 x 90 = 180 WRMS x 1 @ 4ohm. Some of the better amps have the facility to go into protection mode if it senses a 'load' that is not able to be run safely on the amp. I am unsure of how this is done internally to be honest. Fixxxer

Bugger, I just wrote a whole lot of stuff and the computer lost it, so here is the short version. The above advice is totally incorrect and I'm willing to put money on it (I need money, hehe). It is also why most people get caught out when their amp goes into protection mode or heats up so much it shuts down to protect itself. I have been in the car audio scene for well over 10 years now and have seen it happen many many times and have seen a lot of people ripped off by bad advice. Just like paralleling coils on a subwoofer, bridgeing an amp will do the same internally. The amp will 'see' half the impedence of the sub. This is referred to as a 4-ohm MONO load (when 2 channels are bridged) or also known as 2-ohm STEREO load (i.e., the amp is 'seeing' a 2ohm load on both channels, even though the subwoofer is 4ohms). An example, and there are millions of others out there. My Kicker amp puts out 2x90WRMS @ 4ohms and 2x180WRMS @ 2ohms, if I bridge the channels it puts out 360WRMSx1 <--- 4ohm MONO load. As you can see, it makes the combined output of the single channels at 2-ohms, proving it is operating in a '2ohm STEREO mode' even though there is a 4ohm sub attached to it. Ohh and Fry33, your 2_2ohm sub, when the coils are put in SERIES will indeed make a 4ohm sub, when you bridge the amp channels it will see a 2ohm load. So in essence you are running your front speakers off a single channel each (Ch1 and Ch2), they will show the amp a 40hm load (so they are getting 70Watts each), but Ch3 and Ch4 are operating at 2ohms. Fixxxer

The sub will always be 4-ohm, but when you bridge two channels of a amp together, the amp will 'see' a 2 ohm load through both those channels. So long as the amp is bridgeable, stick with the 4ohm sub as you indicated, it will work great. Fixxxer

Grab the head unit with 3 pairs of RCA outs, this will give you front, rear and a subwoofer RCA's and is a better choice anyways. Yes, you can run the splits and the sub off one 4 channel amp. You would run the front RCA's fromt he head unit to the 4 x100W amp and run the splits of channels 1 & 2 of the amp. You would run the Subwoofer RCA's fromt he head unit to the amp and connect the sub to channels 3&4 of the amp (in Bridged mode). You will need an amp that is bridgeable (practically all of them are these days) and will work at a 2-ohm load. I gather the single voice coil Type S Sub is 4-ohms. Fixxxer

The RPM data on the bottom of the sheet seems to jump around everywhere. Speed versus RPM will remain constant in one gear. From what I can make out, your RPM jumps from as little as 600rpm per 15km/h increase to 1000rpm per 15km/h increase in speed. This can not happen. Until you can find out your actual RPM I wouldn't bother trying to work out anything, it looks like a normal dynograph to me. Fixxxer

You're going to have to compromise, if its weight you want to save, then you're not going to have a high CCA battery. The weight savings will only be fairly small, I think 10kg saving is pushing it. I don't know about conventional batteries, but out of Odyssey and Optima batteries, you are best off with getting hold of an Optima Yellow Top D51, which should weigh around 26pounds, or 12kg. It still has good CCA and RC, but they don't come cheap. I have a Optima red top in my other car, and they are a sweet battery, but weight wasn't an issue for me. Fixxxer

This has been covered a million times. Don't put 100W bulbs in, you will melt everything from fuses, to headlight connections and most likely lessen the time before your little plastic knobs in your headlight switch melt down and lose contact, causing you to have problems with operation of the headlights. Stick with the 55W globes, but you can upgrade to 'brighter' bulbs at your local autoparts store. I just changed mine for 'normal' replacement 55W globes, and funnily enough they were brighter than the ones that were in it. You can buy 30% and 50% brighter 55W bulbs for a few extra $$$, and it'll save you from melting wiring. Fixxxer

Intake temp lower than Ambient temp??? Something wrong there?? In saying that I think around the 140KW is about right for the R33. Fixxxer

An alternator check wouldn't go astray, it will save you the possibility of draining a new battery when you throw it in. I replaced my battery a few weeks back, I think your looking for a R57 battery (I think that is the code). It will fit in stock location, you should be able to find one around the 450CCA rating. Fixxxer

Wow, quick service. I received my flywheel today at about 10:30am. Looks nice, not exactly like the photo in this thread, but close enuf. Can't wait to throw it in Fixxxer