Fixxxer

I don't have too much problem reading the gauge during the day, but I can agree that it's not as good as I thought it would be. It almost looks like one of the light bulbs has blown in the centre. The outside part (where you need it is bright), but the 'SABER' part and the little oC (degrees celcius) under the middle of the gauge and the inner half of the red needle seems very dim, almost like one of the lights is blown. Its not very noticeable at night though, only during the day. Fixxxer

This may not always be true. When I upgraded my clutch and lightened flywheel in my 32GTST my mechanic said that the new lightened flywheel could not be used with the old clutch. IIRC, the new flywheel diameter was larger. Luckily I had the upgraded clutch ready to go in and all was sweet. I don't know if I have a different gearbox under the car or something?????? Fixxxer

Found it (I hope). I pulled the ashtray out while I was driving home and everytime I slightly touched/moved the earth wire the needle on the gauge jumped around. I will look into it on the weekend if I get time, and make sure it is getting a good connection. I wish the wires going to the gauge were thicker though, they are a bugger to work with, which is probably why I'm having this problem. I'll double check the other earth wire from the water temp sender, but I used good thick wire and connectors, and earthed it at the same spot as my (home job) earthing kit. Thanks for all your help post people. Fixxxer

Yepp, I'll check the earthing at the sender/sensor attachment, and the earthing at the gauge while I'm doing the check of the sensor/sender wire. I'm not sure what you mean by the ECU temp input???? I haven't changed/modified/tapped in to anything that goes to the ECU or the factory temp gauge/factory wires/factory sender, it is as stock, as it left the factory in 1993. The Saber Electrical water temp gauge and sender/sensor is a completely separate unit. The wires I tapped into were from the cigarette lighter (dimmer, 12v and ground). Fixxxer

The 'sender' (sensor) is the one supplied with the gauge itself and is secured in one of those attachments that go in the top radiator hose. My factory water temp gauge is still working. I thought about air pockets, but the gauge was reading correctly (ruleing out faulty gauge/sensor) and showed no signs of 'jumping' around when I first installed it that may indicate there are air pockets. I shouldn't be getting a reading of 140 degrees C or more when the car is quite clearly around 80-90 degrees C either. So I'm kinda ruleing that one out. If it keeps doing it, I will go over the wiring again, especially the 'sender' (sensor) wire, as the connection may have loosened itself while driving around and is not making correct contact all the time..... ?? Fixxxer

Hey all, I finally got around to installing my Saber water temp gauge (electrical) and using one of those water temp attachments that go in the top radiator hose. It has worked fine for about 6-8 trips (probably 3-4 hours of travel time) but this morning the gauge is flicking/jumping up/down all over the place, going from 80 degrees C to 110, 120, back to 80, 90, 130, 100, 140 back to 80 etc.... etc..... all within about 5 seconds. It might stay at the propoer temp for another 10 seconds but then go into up/down mode again. It seems to remain more stable when I'm at a stop, but will still flick up and down randomly. Anyone know what could be causing this???? Fixxxer

Ya can't always judge by the interior. My interior is almost perfect (only the beginning of a slight wear on the edge of the driver seat where you brush everytime you get in/out of the car). The carpets, dash, steering wheel all look very clean and 'newish', yet my '93 R32 GTST is at 183,000. If they'd told me it was 80,000, I would have believed them no worries. Fixxxer

Hey guys I noticed when I changed plugs the other day that the BCPR6ES plugs I'd had in there for ~14,000km still looked in fine condition (and ran fine too) but about 5 out of the 6 plugs had a rust coloured ring around the white part (where the white part goes into the silver nut/thread part). I gather this is due to heat. I did overheat the car one time but shoudl I go to a 7 heat range? Anyone else experienced this before? I run a RB20 with R33 turbo, 12psi (0.8bar), runs very rich 10:1 above 3500rpm..... Maybe I need to run 0.9bar to get the correct AFR's? It has a Blitz Super Computer sticker on the ECU. Fixxxer

Does anyone have a photo or description of where the wires come out of the temp sensor behind the 4 little slits in the centre console?? I took my ash tray out and I can see that the sensor is about 5cm long, and about 1cm in diameter with a foam bit near the back of it, but where are the wires supposed to be? Is there a proper connector that attaches to it somehow? What does it look like? Fixxxer

I was offered the BF Goodrich GForce Profilers, which seemed like a really nice tyre, but they didn't come in a 225 x 18 size for my fronts (235 on backs). I've used the GForce Sports before and they are grippy. I ended up going for the Federal 595SS for $210 front and $190 (235x40x18) back which seemed like a good price. They initially seemed a little slippery but after doing about 1500km they now stick real well, holds first gear without slipping. I haven't had the chance to test them much in the wet since they have worn in, but are way better than my last set of crap Sonar's (came with the car). They also seem a little wider tyre than my last 235's, I get a little whine when turning a hard right hand corner.... they keep sticking though. Federal 595SS - 235x40x18 (225 on front) Dry: 8/10 Wet: 7/10 Value: 10/10 Fixxxer

Any workshop that fits microtechs should be nice enough to at least diagnose what the Error message is on your handset. It sounds like the 2 line handsets flash up the Sensor, and then 2 secs later flash up either OK, or Err messages. As it says, you need to watch the screen, first for the type of sensor, and then watch where the Err message appears. otherwise, go visit a shop. Fixxxer

I don't know about the 2 line handset (I have the 4 line) but the one that has the error should have the 'ERR' message below it. i.e., WAT AIR HOM REF Err OK OK OK MAP RPM TPS BATT OK OK Err OK for instance. Fixxxer

On my other car (rotary) it used to read about 2-5 degrees C above ambient when on the move (throttle open), and go up another 5 or so degrees more when you closed the throttle (e.g., coast to a set of lights). I did see it as low as 4 degrees on a cold night in Brisbane/Gold Coast. I think it's just a case of where you get the reading from. I'm sure that massive cooler is doing it's job. Fixxxer

Don't know if this is true, but I have heard that the 'effective' octane of fuel is reduced by oil vapours, including reducing the amount of oxygen available to burn. Don't think it can hurt to have one, but as to how much HP you gain, is up for debate. Fixxxer

10" long, 3" straight thru (slight offset) muffler (side expansion chamber). Best $130 I ever spent on the car. 'nuff said. Fixxxer

Also check your headunit doesn't have something like a sub frequency cutoff on (SW on Alpine head units). Every time I reset my unit, or disconnect the car battery it automatically turns on the SW filter (shown as SW on the screen) and NO bass comes out of anything (even speakers it seems). I have to turn this off to get the sub going. Fixxxer

Yep, agree with Haysey. If you like to listen to a lot of stuff with the engine off, a good deep cycle battery will be enough, even with a few amps. Even a normal car battery (good one with good CCA and RC) should be fine if you don't listen to the stereo with the car off much. Make sure your ground wires are good including the alternator to battery cable. Fixxxer

A resonator won't affect power much at all really, so long as you get one in the same size as your exhaust (3" for example). I just had a small straight through (very slight offset) 3" muffler (about 20cm or 8" long with a side expansion chamber) thrown on my R32 and I haven't noticed any power difference. It's massively quieter now, no drone and I can drive it harder now without the po-po looking out their office window everytime I gun it = more fun. All for the good price of $130 including raising the centre section of my exhaust which hung low, and replacing some hangers/rubbers. Fixxxer

Early model ProfecB for me, dyno graph shows it holds constant boost all the way to redline. Can't complain. Fixxxer

Have a look at the thread in the up the top 'sticky' section regarding wheel sizes people are running and what mods they needed to do to fit them. Fixxxer

Fast Cool (FC) will come up after you hold down the cold button for 5 seconds when the unit shows 18 degrees as the temp you want. Just keep holding the cold button down until you see FC come up. Press the OFF button for 5 secs if you want diagnostics. Fixxxer

Cat temp light, mine does it all the time, it's nothing to worry about, it has no effect on the ECU or anything. I think a fair few people who have this problem seem to have a gutted/hollowed out cat. Fixxxer

Depends what state you live in I believe. If it's QLD, then you can't have the bottle or lines/solenoids on the car at any time while on a public road. Fixxxer

Don't calcium batteries charge at different rates, or react differently when not charged at the correct rate. I've been told that putting an ordinary battery in a car designed for a calcium battery is a no-go..... and putting a calcium battery to replace a normal leadacid battery will shorten it's life and charge capacity. Have I been misinformed? Fixxxer

I had exactly the same problem. One of your contacts is not contacting anymore, makes sense..... You need to pop out the switch (you can choose to take the whole door trim off if you like, it's less fiddly) and open up the switch area. Be careful to pry it open slowly so you don't lose any parts, which I almost did, and all I did was just bend the metal contact so that it was sure to make contact. *** Don't bend it too much, because that may mean your motor will be 'on' all the time, and burn out. Test it out while you still have it out, if it works pop it back in and you're done. Fixxxer