skybt1

this might sound weird but i just need the heater control knobs. Ive lost a couple and need to put some back on.

None of the rubbers are torn on the moustache bar. Should there be rubbers between the diff and the rear cradle? For memory the four holes that are bolted to the rear cradle have no rubbers, just nuts and bolts. But i had the same problem with my old diff too.. Its very odd.

Any clutch recommendations? Will be on an RB30ET. I was lookin at getting an eXtreme clutch. They any good? Looking at handling around 350hp.

there seems to be so many options concerning these R series diffs that i am sure a lot of people are unaware of. There are not a lot of people that specialise in these parts, thats what i have found anyway.

does the s13 rear end bolt into an r30? no mods?

so while im there i should be looking at changing the rear main and input shaft seal?? I didnt realise oil could cause so much trouble. I would have thought that it would just burn away.

i realise its not a cheap exercise but i just thought that maybe someone changing their diff or upgrading or whatever, they can be aware that these R series diffs come in cars other than nissans. I got stuffed around making up halfshafts for my car, and thought that other people might have the same problem and maybe be able to do some mods like this. I know it probably would have worked out cheaper for me! Last time i take anything to someone that doesnt know what they are doing...

Im just posting this up while it flashed in my memory. Subaru wrx's run R160 and R180 diffs. The R160 is found in wrx impreza's and the R180 is found in wrx sti's. I know the sti version is definately lsd. im not sure about the R160's if they are lsd but they might be. They share same bolt patterns and everything!! Anyway, thought some of you might find it interesting, if you didnt know it already.

i dont know if you have looked into it but if you didnt want to throw in an r200 diff and keep the r180, the wrx sti's use r180 lsd's. they look EXACTLY the same. Normal wrx's come with r160's. I found it quite interesting when i came across it..

serious? i would of never thought that!!! why on earth would there be oil on my clutch???? does make sense though. at least now im glad its not the rear suspension. that would explain a lot. its also one of the things i have not changed!!! ive changed diffs, tail shafts, cv shafts, suspension the works! looks like the clutch is next! thanks for your diagnostics and help.

sounds like you have everything i need! how much you want for it? what area you reside in??

when i dump the clutch it just fries the tyres. It happens more when i ride the clutch into power then release it. Then when i snap second and squats down it does it again. Then into third it disappears due to rolling speed and lack of power. It doesnt squat as hard in third. So thats why i was tending to a suspension problem. Any recommendations for a good rear suspension set up?

ill have to source an L6 pump and see how different it is to an rb one. I don't think it should be that difficult of a job to attack. I think that the later the model the L6 pump is the more likely it is going to be that it will be easier to interchange with the rb type. Thats what im hoping anyway. I know that the alternator off my L24 can fit on the rb block with the only change needed is the front pulley. Hopefully the power steering pump is the same!

sounds very technical and is exactly what i was afraid of. Probably be easier if i can adapt the r30 pump to the rb block. Then i wont have to worry about line pressures and what not. I was sort of after an easy fit changeover sort of thing.

that sounds like a plan. If it is real wheel hop, how do would i go about fixing it? Is it a suspension thing? Bushes? Springs? Shocks? What causes the hop to happen most??

thanks for the offer. ill probably take you up on it but gonna make sure i can do what i want with the rb pump and fittings before i rip it out of the car! im guessing that a power steering box and a rack would work under the same sort of principle and that the plumbing for it should be relatively similar if not pretty close to being the same!

Hello peoples! Im wanting to fit power steering to my mr30 and have no idea as to the parts that i need. Heres my Q's.. They run a power steering box and not a rack don't they? Can i put a rack in it? Without any hardcore mods.. Does the box use all the same sort of plumbing a rack does? Reason being im gonna be using an rb30 power steering pump with the r30 system. Im hoping its all pretty much the same with not many differences.. Any expertise on power steering will be greatly appreciated!! Cheers

nope. easy as!

id go with the s13 conversion. jump on the silvia forums and see if you can source some hubs and stub axles for the front, and you'll be set! But then you will have to change your whole front brake set up too. I used all s13 parts on the front, its all pretty much interchangerbale. Except for the tie rod ends. I dont know what they are like on the r31 but i know on the r30 some machining has to be done. But they are probably the same, nissan dont change much when they are on a good thing. I dont know if you have read this already http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=75610 but its probably 99% the same.

Thats one thing i havent taken into consideration purely for the fact that this car has seen 4 tail shafts, from stock to modifying it over the years for different gearbox and diff and the one time it broke the rear uni. I didnt think that all 4 tailshafts could be out of balance, especially with the last one being bran new. Ive been having this problem ever since i chopped the rear springs years ago. Since then ive changed the tailshaft 3 times and rear suspension 3 times. The only thing i have not changed yet are the rear wheel bearings. I thought that these only get changed when they are noisy? I just thought it was the use of crappy springs in the back that are too soft and have a bad rebound quality or something along those lines. Its just real annoying, sounds scary in the car and i know it's not right and needs to be fixed

no one must of ever had this problem before..i was hopin i wasnt the only one!

looks like ultimate is the winner by far..

I have a problem with my rear end violently shaking under full power when accelerating. It feels like axle tramp but its real violent. Ive been told its not axle tramp because its irs but thats what it feels like, and it is bloody terrible. It feels like the rear wheels bouncing up and down real quick real violently. Is it my rear suspension set up? Is it my diff? What is it? It only happens in the 1st and 2nd under full acceleration. car is mr30 sedan, man with an R200 viscous lsd. Anyone help or had the same problem? My gut feeling says its the suspension...

Only crap thing is that not all shells stock the V Power Racing. You may be interested in this if you did not catch it on RPM this weekend. http://www.motec.com.au/fueltest/index.htm

Im guessin the R230 is not a long nose? Seems as though the only strengthening option is Z31 half shafts. OR getting everything in the rear custom made and all fabricated to suit the power. But that would just be a waste of money.