Medium Dave

Whoops, got busted indoors and immediatly handed a vaccum cleaner I say 100A but I do admit it is a pretty cheap setup, so its probably imperial amps, but I am usually getting a nice clean weld, but this one is like when you blow bubbles in milk through a straw (on reflection a picture would be handy) not spitting tho, I have not tried cleaning it, I will grind & clean it out again and have a go with some metho I have handy. Using pure argon. Leads are set up ok, and 1.6mm tungsten, most of the space frame is 1.5mm rhs, I have done some welding with the 2-3mm plate which has come up ok, its just over about 5cm Thanks guys

Hey guys, I am fairly new to this TIG welding so my apologies for the rubbish terminology, but I am trying to weld a subframe which is 2mm mild steel to a 3mm thick plate on the back of my clubman and it is going well for the most part, but there is a section thet is a T intersection where the weld puddle is bubbling, and the bubbles are going through the weld. I have tried grinding away all the bad weld and cleaning it with the wire wheels, resharpening the tungsten and trying again, but it happend again! it is happening over about 2inches and either side I can weld ok, I am using a pretty simple welder set at about 100amps. Any ideas how to clean that weld off and get it welded properly? thnaks in advance

I dont suppose anyone might have a gearbox for an sr20? I am after one for my clubman project in any condition, near Hobart would be preferable, but I dont mind traveling - cash waiting, shoot me a pm or email daveb@beer.com thanks I also have a auto box, not sure of condition - Free to good home

Does this count? - I am about a month or so into making the chasis for my clubman... I do conceed there is a little bit of work left to do, but it will be powered by a nissan at least - an sr20de, should do the job

Still after a gearbox if anyone can help me out, Ben is able to help me with a driveshaft, but needs to keep the box, thanks guys

What a funky little van lol

I could look after it for you, I dont have a car at the mo, so I have some space - Just as long as you leave me the keys, in case I need to move it

Dark matter? sounds like someone has been watching too much star trek... My personal theory is that it evens the spread of the incoming air, probably more useful at low pressures for distribution accross the sensor, but if you have a look at taps - ones without the mesh covering the outlet and the ones with mesh covering the outlet, run them at different pressures and see how the water behaves. Water coming out taps without mesh will dribble out the side wheras the water from a tap with mesh will spread evenly accross the mesh, then move through... I dont know, thats just me and I could be wrong...

Well my car is still a pile of steel, but hopefully I will be able to make a start building the clubman this week - If anyone is keen to build a clubman, apply for the transport approval now! before we catch up with the mainland ADR's at the end of the year, it costs nothing to apply and you have 2 years to build one from the time you get approved. Shoot me a pm if keen and I will forward you the application forms

Thanks guys, tas_180 I have sent about 4 PM's - having a bit of trouble with articulating thoughts today

Hey Guys, I am after a manual sr20 gearbox to bolt up for my locost project - na or turbo, so any condition, working or broken will do (I have bought a book on fixing them and Im keen to give it a go) I will also need a flywheel, starter motor and the front half of a driveshaft (broken is ok) as a package or seperate parts will be considered. Also I have an auto sr20de gearbox to giveaway, I dont know its condition, but I am reasonably certain it used to work, but I did drill a hole in the sump to let the oil out after skining knuckles trying to undo the bolt, so if someone can make some use out of it, come and take it away... please I am located in Hobart, so shoot me a pm if you can help me out, cheers dave

I'd say it might be easier on the panel beaters if they were all the same colour there must be a lot of paint swapping going on. Looks like fun tho, would someone lend me a car?

A friend said to me "Money is only an issue if you make it one" I had to get realistic recently and sell my beloved 32gts4, and the subaru, and I am so much less stressed! I havnt owned a car for 3 months now and IT SUX, but at least I have money coming in to pay off a few leftover debts, pay the morgage, and put a few dollars aside for my latest project - building a clubman

Hey all, Im just having a bit of difficulty finding info on the gearboxes from the rwd, naturally aspirated ca18 and sr20 - specifically the weights of each type of gearbox and wether the ca18 gearboxes are physically any smaller? Strength is not going to be too much of an issue as it will only have to handle a stock sr20 and haul ~620kg of clubman (including my podgy arse) and wont get much abuse. Thanks kindly in advance

I would check out the block again, because without some major modificatons a rb20 head wont fir a rb25 block, not saying it cant be done, its just very unlikely - and more likely someone has told you porkies (which sux), in which case I would go with a) welsh plugs are easy + a can or 2 of degreaser will work wonders Oh, and a leak down test will tell you heaps

I am thinking of basing it on the s13 chassis, and using a ca18 or sr20, just depending what I can find / afford

Hey guys, I am about to embark on the project I have been wanting to do for years, build a car from scratch - on a (very tight) budget so I am after a reasonable seccond hand gas mig weldor - up to around $500, and also a source of some 25mm box section mild steel tubing - most lengths are pretty short, so if you work somewhere or have an idea where I could get my hands on some for a small fee around Hobart I would appreciate a pm or email daveb@beer.com -Strictly speaking this should be in the classified section, but what I am after cant be easily posted, but if it has to be moved then thats ok. Here's the final product of what I am trying to achieve...

longer runners the better, there is plenty of books on the subject at your local library - the whole thing is a bit of a science, ergo' do the reaserch and it will come up trumps, dont and you will lean out the rear, rich on the front and your engine will go pop

I dont know why I waited so long to tell you aarlan... I am your real father Sounds like a nice car, pics?

when I had my 32gts4 I dynoed it at 110kw atw (basically stock), but fast enough for me over a twisty mountan pass (and quick enough to keep up with a friend in a gtr - ok mabey he was holding back a bit because he had my girlfriend in the car, but she was still sh!tscared)

It has been a while since I have used it but the appropriate field will be obvious when you see it (I cant remember right now) and figures of 128 is limited, and 256 is maxed. I really only had a bit of a look for the theory so someone else may* have a few better answers than me *when I say may, I mean 'will definatly'

I use Live Edit, here is a link... clicky

Carpets are pretty easy too, dont worry. they are all moulded and for the most part sit back down in the right spots with a little pulling and prodding

Might be a bit of science in it, the afm reads the airflow and outputs in a logarithmic curve, then the computer outputs that in a linear curve using a conversion table, by increasing the diameter you may throw the curve well out of whack. How's it all going anyway? im curious to know

Damn, I seem to have misplaced my chequbook, can I borrow yours? Nice car campbell, congrats on the run - that engine bay is shiny'er than the top of my head!