Medium Dave

Now that is a way to check out! Mind you its pretty amazing how intact that passenger compartment is after what seems to be a fairly substantial impact

Aargh, someone delete this thread - I wont need the hubs after all - My idea wont work. Back to the drawing board This clubman is going to drive me nuts! Many thanks to everyone for help tho

Thanks for the tip Sam, but the silvia hubs are totally different unfortunatly - I have a set, but I cant make them work for my locost

Wow, you guys have it good - I get mine from supergas in Tassie - $150 a year for rental, and $140 for a fill!

Sorry if this makes no sense, but I was wondering if you can get a replacement pin to go in the top pivot of my front hubs, here is a piccy of a different hub, but the mark in red is where the appropriate steel pin goes -> -Long story, but I am using them for my locost project and removed the pin to make up a bracket to connect a studded spherical bearing, as it turns out I wont be able to get the car engineered like that, so I need to replace the pins and use the standard swivel. Much thanks in advance

Oh, and 5 stud are ok, but if they were 4 stud - well that would just make my day! ** I am building a locost, so things are a little different from the norm

Thats cool, I sometimes cruise up that way to visit famly - if I come up empty handed I might pester you in a bit - thanks

Hey Guys, Just wondering if anyone might have a set of front hubs from a skyline r32/33, condition doesnt matter I will look at anything! Preferably somewhere near Hobart, Thanks all

Wow, I think if I placed that much value in an innanimate object like a phone I would have to book myself into the "please, please get a life foundation" I hope it brings you happyness.

A few years ago I had the oportunity to buy a house - I didnt and bought a skyline. A mate of mine was in the same position, he bought the house, fast forward a few years, he owns 2 houses, owned a 33gts, 33gtst, 33gtr, now has a 350z. I have finally bought a small house with my wife, and what do I drive? an automatic falcon wagon... Buy the house.

Dib's on the rear 5 stud hubs if you part it out

That supra has got to be the ugliest concept from toyota yet! Oh and as a side note - probably old news to you guys in the know, but I read the new Porche 911 has run a 7:50 at the 'ring - Makes the new GTR even more impressive

I have read that this can upset thew flow of air into the engine, the factory manifold is designed to flow air from the side and evenly into the cylinders, when you put the throttle body on the front it will allow too much air into the front cylinders and too little in the rear, so you run rich one end and lean the other... so baisically, do some reaserch before starting

Its a good run from Hobart - St Helens - Launnie, I did that a few months ago with some mates, nice summers day, and I had my first drive of a GTR, a R33 Vspec, absolute magic

Looks like I just found one, thanks all

Hey guys, I have just mounted the steering rack and column in my clubman, but I need the rod that goes between the two, with the rubber bit for the top - if you have one in Hobart I can pick up, or dont mind posting, shoot me a pm or call 0409 434 432, thanks muchly

I am streching the old grey matter a bit, but I seem to remember talk about Renault rebadging the GTR as the new alpine? It was a few years ago, and could have been the flight of fancy of a motoring journo tho

I would suggest working on your corner entry, concerntrate on balancing the car and making it as smooth as possible, e.i, get your gear changes done before the corner, ease off the brakes onto the throttle, and turning the car in nice and smooth, then dont apply power till you know you dont have to take it off. Leave your suspension on the middle settings, a lot of body roll & traction problems can be rectified with the device behind the steering wheel - Sorry, I dont mean to sound harsh, but the best thing I have ever done was to have someone who was an awesome driver teach me how I went from thinking I was a good driver, to realising I dont know anywhere near enough!

Thanks Brett, that has pretty much summed up why I want to build this car - the most fun I have had behind the wheel was an alfa gtv6, not terribly fast, but good fun. As Colin Chapman said "simplificate, then add lightness," Damn straight - mine isnt even going to have the luxury of a radio

Just had a look at your website Brett, nice build - but the link to the "why" quote does'nt work tho, now I am curious On aerodynamics I was reading that a good drag coeficient is about 0.3, a truck is 0.6 and a clubbie... 0.7!

Nice work, nothing better than getting your hands dirty

Hey Tom - I didnt know I could do it either untill I tried! Seriously, I had never used a welder before. I practiced all saturday morning and started building in the afternoon. (I did an adult ed course tho, so it wasnt completely blind) and in regards to suspension travel, my calculations are 2.5:1 wheel to shock, and from memory, I measured that to be pretty close... Sounds like I will be having some fun then (always stay positive) at least the shocks are double adjustable (twice as much for me to stuff up) - Why I chose to do it this way is because the shocks were dirt cheap - around $60 a piece from america, or the propper ones run around $1200'ish per set - works on my beer & pizza budget They work quite nicely when I jump up and down on them, as far as I can figure out they are rising rate (I am happy to be shown otherwise, the whole project is a learning experience for me) they are quite compliant to start with, but as hard as I jump on it, I cant get to more than about half way of travel on the shock. I have never been in a clubman, and I have no idea how his will actually handle, so I am as curious as hell to find out - hopefully one day soon I will be able to let you all know, and with any luck it will be good news

Thanks for the comments guys Its elfin who build the V8 ones, which is owned by Walkinshaw now I think. I am hoping to register the car, its a lot of extra mucking around, but will be worth it. You need to fill out the appropriate paperwork for transport (Individually Constructor Vehicle), and get an engineer to check it out at various points during the build. Stephen, you can get plans for an extra wide chassis, the McSorley 442 plans are popular in america (4" wider, 4" longer and 2" taller) you can always just make them bigger to suit yourself, but you wont be able to register it with a CA18 engine, they need to be reasonably recent to satisfy ADR's, and which years depend on which state you are in, but the earliest is 97, is why I am using an sr20. Also you might want to consider what category of racing you want to compete in (which you will ), with the 1.8 turbo, you will be in with 3l 6's and the like - which is why the 4age is popular, puts you down with the 1.6l categories - they are cheap, and there is a lot of knowledge about them www.ozclubbies.com is a good place to start. That and the other advice I can offer is dont underestimate how immense the project is, it will consume nearly all of your spare time (make sure the significant other is ok with the project) and you will loose motivation at different points, so catching up with other builders is handy

Definatly get the alarm + insurance, and tell them everything & be careful - I had an R32 with a bit of a scratch on the rear, I told them about it twice in seperate conversations, ok. But then I needded to upgrade to business use on the insurance, told them about the scratch and they canned my insurance. I was most of the way through repairing it and the car got stolen... Me = Shafted. -Oh and calling the cops is about as useful as sending out a sniffer turtle - complete waste of time.

I have found a lot of the jaycar gear to be quite reasonable for the money, but in your system I would probably spend the money on sound deadening the front doors (a tin of underbody tar is cheap, but messy- found at autobarn etc, or propper matting - more $$ but easier) and forget about the rears. A propper enclosure makes a big difference, even a good set of speakers will be rubbish if the enclosure is poor, and mixing and matching different speakers wont help. If you do go for the tar option - I use it all the time, be careful, it sticks to everything and wont come off. When using it, mask off the area, and wear thick rubber gloves and tie garbage bags on your arms up to your arm pits! Its cheap and messy, but works really well - I dont bother with anything else and I have built my share of systems