Medium Dave

Thanks guy's, there will be some more bracing in the front once I have figure out the front suspension - the book I am using is the haynes roadster, which uses ford sierra parts, so I have opted for nissan - like a sane person. The engineers dont generally have a problem with rhs, the clubman chassis usually pass torsion tests easily (forget that you are the crumple zone for a minute tho) there would be somewhere in the region of 200+ hours work so far (Im a bit of a noob) so I am glad its relitivly easy to work with Oh, and that close to the ground 100kph should feel like warp speed - I'll be needing some of Clarksons special brave pills (and hopefully scaring the crap out of passengers)

$2 mil, race or rally only... Sign me up!

Hey all, I am bored at work today, so I figured I will show you all what I have been up to. Its a locost (lotus 7 replica) with an sr20de (one day it will be +T) with the silvia rear end welded up to it. Next will be front suspension and steering, then I get the engineer to take a look and make sure it wont fall apart at 100kph

Yeah, you will be running hugely rich with those injectors on a stock ecu, especially with that afm grab a pfc and have it tuned, big difference.

It does have plastic ends tho, might give them a call anyway, thanks for the tip

Hey guy's, I have a bit of a wierd one that should probably be on the sylivia forums, but SAU is far superior I have an SR20DE and I would like to use a civic radiator - going into a clubman (trying to do it on a budget) but the inlet and out on the civic radiator are a bit smaller than the in/out on the engine. I have heard of other guys using adaptors, but will this ruin my cooling / water pump? My reasons for keeping it are that it fits really nicely in the front, and it was only $5 so it fits budget wise too - but if it will ultimatley kill things, better safe than sorry eh' Thanks guys

700 orders taken in 48 hours and they want more...

Just make sure they are not too deep - I fitted some 6.5" speakers that were a pain because the magnet was too big - got there in the end tho

I read about a 20 valve starlet years ago, it was built for circuit racing, power to weight was very good - what it lacked on long straights it made up for it in spades around the corners. From what I remember, the biggest hassle was making an exhaust manifold to fit

I am more biased towards the R32, to me they just look more muscular and purposeful - having said that I am hoping the next car I buy (I dont even have one atm) is going to be a 180sx, I say 'hoping' because I have to appease my soon to be wife - after talking about getting a new car after the wedding for the last 8 months it has suddenly become more important to buy a piano... Although I'm not dissappointed at all,.... sigh.

Definatly in good hands But I can sympathise with you tho - sometimes parts just seem to fall out of the sky, other times... well I am thinking the car will mostly be for weekend blats around back roads, but definatly a few hillclimbs, sprints and track days - Hopefully giving you skyline boys a run for your money

GMB - I have Steve Caplice engineering the car, and I have an sr20de to drop in, I would like to go turbo, but on a bit of a budget, I might strap on a turbo later on for power to weight ratios around Ferarri territory Anyway, I just picked up a steering rack from Todd, which lines up very nicely, and hopefully picking up a pair of hubs from Damo tomorrow - if he hasnt fogotten me and tells me where from - hint, hint

Well, if he is a bit of an arse tickler, let him buy a supra - that way he is toyota people's problem when it breaks and we can keep the skylines for ourselves

I have read that under 100 degrees it makes no difference, then above that is not much anyway

Thanks, the subframe was from a silvia, but from what I understand they are baisically the same as the r32 - the brakes are coming from the silvia too, the book frames are pretty strong - about twice what you need to get registered, my frame is mostly from the book except for the rear end (book frames are live axle) and the front suspension - I want to keep it all nissan, so I will redesign the front wishbones around the skyline hubs. The engineering is a bit of a process, you submit an application to build your ICV (Individual Constructed Vehicle) to service tas, they give you the ok, and a list of engineers, then take a copy of the papers to your preferred engineer who keeps them on file. Then start building your chassis to about the point where mine is now, then call your engineer to check the welds and general structure. Fix problems, then continue building the car till you are happy its ready, call the engineer again, he will hopefully give it the all clear and you can register it like a normal car! It has been a lot of fun to build, there are a lot of design issues and problems that you have to think your way around, and a lot of time involved - there is probably around 200 hours in what I have done already - someone who knows what they are doing would probably spend a lot less time tho

Been making some progress with my locost project, sourced some yamaha R1 motorbike shocks for the suspension, at $60 a piece posted from america they work out to be much cheaper than the propper $300+ per corner stuff. Mounted them konegseig style in the rear Now just chasing more parts so I can design/build the front steering & suspension. Then I can get my engineer to have a look, and I will find out if I can get it road registered

Edit: Damo has kindly supplied me with a pair of uprights (many thanks), and I have just realised I forgot to specify what type of tailshaft (doh') I need just the front/gearbox half of a broken manual tailshaft to suit an sr20 - I have an auto one for the rear half and I have to shorten it to make it fit the clubman, might as well use one thats of no good to anyone I am in Hobart, but travel a bit occasionally, so if you can help me out with some parts in exchange for money, shoot me a pm, thanks all! Oh, and if you are interested, the parts will be going into this

I tried showing her a Z3 on **car sale website** while watching an old top gear, and at that moment they had the cool wall, pulled out the Z3 and placed it in uncool, then rubbished bmw's... not kidding, since then she wont look at any bmw Old mercs are very cool, very pimpin', just not really my thing, not a bad idea tho

Thanks guys, the audi might be worth looking into actually, Oh and to answer a few questions; No kids, and no plans at this stage. It will be a combined thing - we are getting married in two months. And yes, I am whipped...

Just wondering if anyone can think of cars that are both pretty (to keep the girl happy) and reasonably quick (to keep me happy) Criteria: Under $20,000 should have 4 seats reasonable sized boot 2 door's comfy seats I have suggested and she has said no: Any skylines (I had a bit of a cry, and still no...) Silvia's / 200sx Alfa Romeo GTV (both types) Toyota MR2 Soarers BMW's Honda civic / prelude / integra (getting desperate) We have driven all of these and they have failed for reasons ranging firm ride to the windscreen isn't big enough... Things she likes the look of but we havnt driven yet: 180sx (she doesnt know they are built on the same base as a silvia - crossing my fingers) supra 300zx FTO Is there anything else in the $20k range that I am forgetting? We only have an old lancer at the moment (her car) so it shouldnt be this difficult to sell her the idea of a decent car! Thanks for your help

a friend of mine wanted to be a writer for fhm or ralph (why, I dont know) but he set about doing his reaserch, and wrote a few articles and sent them in - I dont think he really followed it through tho because he is lazy, but it might not be too bad an idea - it shows you are keen, and gives them an idea of your writing style - so subject is not that important, but would bee good to keep it in the same area as the mag you are aiming for. So baisically, do up a few stories on friends cars, take some pics and put it all together to look like a few pages from thier mags, dress yourself up in a suit and go down to see them Disclamer: I dont know anything about the industry really, but thats how I would go about it

Sorry, I probably should have put in a smiley with the imperial amps comment, I just thought it was that rediculous that it wouldnt be taken seriously - I was just taking the piss out of my rubbish chinese copy welder*, what I should say is at the 100 mark I get a nice weld pool on both surfaces, the 60 mark does not even make a dent there might be a little bit of surface rust, cant quite remember - although I dont really want to take it all off - last resort! it took ages to get lined up and I have already taken apart the jig I think the duty cycle is about 60% but I could be wrong (and I might have completely the wrong figure) * To answer the "you should have bought a decent welder" question; I would love to throw a bunch of money at this project, but that is just not an option at the moment - Its most important job is keeping me sane, which it has been doing quite well for cheap gear Update: I got it! grided out the rubbish weld, wire wheel, metho, upped the gas flow and bam! nice clean weld Thanks for your help guys

Or mabey rivet the mesh on, with a washer on the other side of the mesh to help it hold - evenly spaced it might come up ok

I have been setting it on about 6-7 **cant remember the measurement** - might need a little more? - Actually come to think of it, there is a bit of a gap, and I can hear it whistle in the gap, might be worth cranking it up a but eh'

I read an article a little while ago where they tested a bunch of these power enhancing/fuel saving type devices in a stock car on a dyno, and the best you could hope is that they did nothing, most of them restricted some power and one even set the test car on fire