REDGTT

Signal protocols There are five signalling protocols currently in use with the OBD-II interface. Any given vehicle will likely only implement one of the protocols. Often it is possible to make an educated guess about the protocol in use based on which pins are present on the J1962 connector: * SAE J1850 PWM (pulse-width modulation - 41.6 kbaud, standard of the Ford Motor Company) o pin 2: Bus+ o pin 10: Bus– o High voltage is +5 V o Message length is restricted to 12 bytes, including CRC o Employs a multi-master arbitration scheme called 'Carrier Sense Multiple Access with Non-Destructive Arbitration' (CSMA/NDA) * SAE J1850 VPW (variable pulse width - 10.4/41.6 kbaud, standard of General Motors) o pin 2: Bus+ o Bus idles low o High voltage is +7 V o Decision point is +3.5 V o Message length is restricted to 12 bytes, including CRC o Employs CSMA/NDA * ISO 9141-2. This protocol has a data rate of 10.4 kbaud, and is similar to RS-232. ISO 9141-2 is primarily used in Chrysler, European, and Asian vehicles. o pin 7: K-line o pin 15: L-line (optional) o UART signaling (though not RS-232 voltage levels) o K-line idles high o High voltage is Vbatt o Message length is restricted to 12 bytes, including CRC * ISO 14230 KWP2000 (Keyword Protocol 2000) o pin 7: K-line o pin 15: L-line (optional) o Physical layer identical to ISO 9141-2 o Data rate 1.2 to 10.4 kbaud o Message may contain up to 255 bytes in the data field * ISO 15764 CAN (250 kbit/s or 500 kbit/s). The CAN protocol is a popular standard outside of the US automotive industry and is making significant in-roads into the OBD-II market share. By 2008, all vehicles sold in the US will be required to implement CAN, thus eliminating the ambiguity of the existing five signalling protocols. o pin 6: CAN High o pin 14: CAN Low

SHells Say no more. lol lol Minh

All sensors from the car send signals back to the ECU as Voltage signals. So I would assume just voltage readings when the Nissan Datascan or Consult reads it.

I think the newer power FC can skip the AFM and use MAF but dont quote me.

Yes pretty much because as I mentioned earlier. The ECU does not see air returning to the AFM when you let go of the throttle so it dumps fuel momentarily into the engine to protect it. An aftermarket Plum Back BOV will do the job too. Get a dual venting one if you want the PSSHHHT Noise. Vents to Atmo and some back to the intake .

yeah bro. A ECU that gets rid of the Air Flow Meter altogether. Thats the only way . If not then put the plumb back BOV back one.

Rack does some strange things when it is faulty. Mainly when turning though. When I was turning it felt like someone grabbed a hold of the steering wheel and yanked it back and forth. Possesed car! lol If not Hicas then get under there and double check your castors and your bushes. Reason I say castor is because you put your foot down so the castor moves making your wheel move back more under the wheel arch on the passenger side hence like you are turning left. The whole motion of speeding up or accelerating throws your wheel castor into that mentioned position and it stays there so even when you drive slowly after the symptom will still be there.

Yep in the boot. And if it is it. Then leave it out. Dont bother repairing it. Overated I say. Either pull the light out of the dash or get a tomei locker kit for it.

Check your castor? Your castor rods arent leaking? I bet you its something really simple and stupid. My favourite type of problems lol. As a test if it is Hicas. Pull the fuse on the bugger. So the rear is straight and not changing.

DannyBro Bro. Our cars have Air Flow metres. We need plumb back items. Vent to Atmosphere are no good on deceleration of when we let go of the trottle as the AFM detects no plumb back air from the BOV and so the ECU runs rich to protect the motor hence momentarily flooding it and almost and if not stalling the engine. The POD is fine.

Coolant overflow from bottle is usually from two things. Dodgy Rad cap not releasing pressure properly or a blown head gasket. I say the second one since you have already done the first fix Sorry I know its not what you wanted to hear. if you are in Sydney. Then PM me and I can get you a good price on head gasket repair.

If the steering wheel is pulling by itself when you turn then its usually a dodgy steering rack. If you give it a little and it pulls to one side and your alignment is straight then check your tyre pressures. Make sure they are even.

Only on the corners of the half moons and the corners.

Best thing to do is hook up a nissan consult or nissan data scan with the laptop and read the tacho digitally.

Surging problems 99 percent of the time is fuel related. When you hold on 60kms you are effectly cruisng. The ECU at this point gets the reading from the o2 sensor. I suggest replacing that.

Engine light on means one of the sensors have failed and giving out an incorrect voltage reading or none at all. The flashing will only take place when you do a self diagnostics to get the exact sensor code. Hook up nissan datascan with the cable which you can purchase or take it to nissan for them to hook up the consult. Free way is do the self diagnostics for the ecu.

When you start the car up and it is cold idleing it is in closed loop mode. All sensors are shut off and only sensor it uses is the oxygen sensor (o2). IF this is faulty then hunting will occur as the ECU gets no reading and dumps fuel constantly and that rev hunting is the fuel dump. O2 sensor is also used when you cruise (light throttle) This will cause your car to surge or if not run quite rich. I suggest you change your o2 sensor first.

when you turn your key onto reds. Just before you actually turn the motor over. The 4wd light should come on with the rest of the other lights on the dash.

life isnt fair. You are so lucky. Seriously mate.

The import dealership are usually poorly equipped. Honestly sounds dumb but make sure they dont pull the bulb out. If no succcess I say take it to nissan who will hook up the consult. I had 4wd light come on my r33 GTR in the early days. I lost 4wd when it did. We tried alot of things. You know what? took it to nissan and they hooked up the consult and it turned out to be the TPS!

Check for leaks. Sounds like Steering rack is gone. Check your power steering fluid is full. if its front steering having funny play back then its from the front more likely. I had a Hicas issue with the light on my R33 GTR and it was the rear at the time. The unit died.

You can always take it to nissan and plug in the consult. I know Hornsby nissan have a consult there. If you are out in Camden way my mate has a shop with one too. If you are out in campbelltown way I have the laptop and nissan datascan. If that fails. Try doing a search "self diagnostics"

who was phone?