GorGasm

Ive got tiptronic and id pick the manual. The big thing for me is that you cant tune the auto version which leaves you with a shitty tune when you turn up the boost. That and the manual is faster

Hey yokotas13, a bit OT but im curious as to what mods are on your gloria and what sorta power you're making? My bro has a vq30det gloria and it would be interesting to see what we should do to it. Cheers!

Yeah i think mine does the same. At certain throttle points it sounds as if the A/C switches off.

with SITC and SAFC i have got it to be nearly no R&R. It will never be completely gone without lowering the boost or changing ecu but its quite good at the moment. The SITC would be so much better in this application if it had more resolution, especially around 4000-5000rpm (It only has settings for 4000 and 5600). After further thinking, yeah the FCD is probably just a waste of time.

true, with an safc you could do effectively the same as a FCD. And yeah its only good to a point.

i have cheap random brand ones in my car. Theyre blue. Havent had any issues. Dunno where to get em in aus though sorry.

Ive noticed two things in my RSV. I have similar mods to you and im running near on .9 bar. Firstly R&R was excessive above about 0.7-0.8 bar. This is the sluggish feeling from 4-5.5krpm then full speed from there. The next was a wierd sort of cutout which happens at about 5krpm and only on 1 bar or half throttle on anything more than 0.75bar. I have installed and SAFC and SITC and have tuned that to get rid of most of the R&R feeling and my A/F ratios are near flat on 12. Problem is that it will get better/worse depending on ambient temperature. The SAFC/SITC do not get rid of the strange cutout/boostcut. A FCD may work here but im thinking about upgrading to a Z32 afm, adjustable FPR and larger turbo and seeing what i can do from there. The FCD may help you out but i would definately set it up on a dyno.

if you havent already commited is there a chance you can go for higher spec components? spend big on components and you wont be disappointed.

6g buys some bloody top line gear o_O. What are you getting installed? I have DLS MS6 components and a kicker S10L7 sub in mine.

both runs were at a shade over 11 psi. Ambient temps were roughly the same, dyno is the same, the fan may have caused a bit of a difference. The 6.5psi run was with the boost controller, safc and sitc set to zero. I noticed the difference in performance though

I have to wholeheartedly disagree with GTST about the R34 SMIC to FMIC issue. I gained 16rwkw kw between my R34 SMIC and 600x300 FMIC install. Also the difference in performance was instantly noticeable for me. Have you ever noticed how your car drives harder during the evenings or on cool days?Thats how it feels all the time with the FMIC fitted. After a brief thrash you can feel the r34 cooler is heat soaked. Not so with the FMIC. I think the FMIC is totally worth it in Aussie heat let alone in NZ. heres my dynos, differences are from R34 SMIC to FMIC and a touchup on the SAFC/SITC before after

what happens when you go over bumps? dont you get mad rubbing?

170rwkw Id expect about a low 14 now with 186rwkw. Parts for the RWD stagea are a pain in the ass to get. Still havent got brakes to fit >=(

As mentioned the only problems ive had with the yellow are the fact that the bonnet and plastic parts fade faster than the rest of the car. Car still looks good though! Ive also had trouble with the clear coat coming off my bonnet , although i think this may be due to the product i have been using on it rather than the paint quality. Theres currently a handful of yellow stageas for sale in NZ, however, none are manual

My boost control solenoid makes that ticking sound when its actuating. Does the car have an aftermarket boost controller?

Hey, seen you driving round a few times now Psy, must be all go. Car is looking tops eh. Dreams are free for me heh.

Nankangs are a very poor tire. Federals arent that great but i would definately pick them over nankangs. I have seen many sets of nankang NS2s blow out their sidewalls.

hey, Last time i went to the strip i didnt have the FMIC and a slightly different tune. I ran 14.77 with 170rwkws. Im hoping to get a low 14 pass the next time i go.

Hey have you got wgc34 specific coilovers or are they s14 or something else?

Untrue. I have an S2 rwd with 186rwkw and i can load up the trans to about 2500 and floor it on the strip, this is on 235 wide tires. the rwd will be quicker in the dry up till about 200-220rwkw and maybe higher. After that the 4wd will have an advantage. As for differences. RWD has different suspension and brakes. It matches GC34 and s14 silvia i believe, also an absolute bitch to find brake parts for. RWD is lighter and is therefore faster in stock trim/mild mods and theoretically more fuel efficient.

got one on my Stag. Works no worries.

fitting an fmic kit to a stag is no harder than it is for a skyline. My S2 rwd turned out easier to fit than my friends R34 coupe. R32/33/34 kits work. a blitz lm same side return kit should fit as well. That would be the nicest cooler kit available i think.

Same engine, similar gearbox with 100kg less to carry = my reasoning for rwd being faster. My best time so far is 14.77 with 170rwkw. Confident i can make low 14s now with 186rwkw.

the 4wd is no safer than the rwd. Its all down to how you are driving. Being a nissan RWD based on the laurel/silvia chassis it is a very predictable car and traction is only an issue in the wet. I have the feeling that the 4wd version may feel a bit better balanced as my RWD feels quite front heavy, also parts interchangability is better. In a straight line the RWD is going to be faster due to weight up till about 250-300wkw.

my settings are: 800: +2 2400: +2 4000: +4-5 5600: 0 to -1 7200: -1