J_Red33

Yeah sorry I think it was bed time when I wrote that post, wasn't really with it. If people would prefer to wait till next year for a cruise that's fine as EMZ_33 is already having the charity cruise on the 9th, though that looks like it's going to be basically cruising around town for half of it before heading down to aldinga along highways, but it is for charity. I'll leave it open for further debate. We can still have an SAU BBQ say at the Belair National Park as originally suggested at least. Anyone with other bright ideas are welcome to post them up

Hmm interesting, I'm an electronics tech myself (got an advanced diploma in engineering) delt a bit with thermocouple stuff. Wouldn't be too hard I reckon with a little research if needed. PM me with more details.

Damn if I'd eaten dinner already I'd have been there. Oh well next time

Hmm well if that's ur economy then you've got a lot more fuel left in the tank than you think when you go to fill up. That kind of economy should get you around 400 klicks before the fuel light comes on, by which point you should still have at least 10 litres left.

I know where you are coming from with the mountain bike vs roadie, but there are a lot more differences between a mountain & road bike which makes it an extreme case. The other major factor (& I should know being a keen cyclist myself) is air resistance at high speed as the tyre has to cut through a lot more air due to the substantial extra width as well as the chunky tread patterns that they use. Taking into account a larger frame with thicker tubing bearings with a bit more resistance due to them needing to be more robust & a more upright seating position & we're talking a lot more than just the friction of the tyres. The only extra air resistance a car is going to have is due mainly to what's exposed below the body line, which is bugger all. An Echo would show up the difference a lot more since they weigh bugger all & have really skinny tyres. The extra weight of wheels in themselves if they increased the width by 30mm a corner, & I'm assuming the diameter of the rims by at least an inch or 2, would be relatively a lot greater on a little Echo. Also when they stuck the stockies back on I'll bet they checked the tyre pressures, something that may not have been done for a while with the other wheels. To cut a long story short there are a lot of factors & if other variables aren't kept consistent then there is going to be more noticeable varations. Personally I went from the standard 205 size to 225's on the front & 265's on the back & have also fitted a deacent stereo with no noticeable effect on fuel economy. I also check my consumption every time I fill up, so I would have noticed a change. My economy now is better than it's ever been.

24th will be a sunday so it is do-able. May be a good day for it as most of the travellers would have already gone on friday nite/saturday. Christmas eve cruise hey, hmmmm.

I think these things do play a role, but very small apart from the tyre pressures if they're severely underinflated. Tyre compound would play a role too. I've never heard of anyone complaining their fuel economy went out the window after fitting a beefy stereo or some nice fats on the back, nor a big improvement either for that matter!

Personally I find the best way to get good economy is chuck it in 5th gear by 60kph (). Used to drive it in 4th around town, but then found that using 5th saved me good half to 1 litre of fuel per 100km (R33's really should have been a 6 speed IMO). I do like giving it a fair bit whenever I can up to the speed limit, & have found that I don't use a real lot more fuel doing so because I short shift most of the time & use the torque. If I rev the engine past 5 grand a lot then I start to suck the juice a bit more. My latest fill with a roughly 180km round trip out of town on the weekend + about 370km around town (yes I did top it up a bit mid week & took note of the amount) brought back an economy figure of 10.7/100km. No doubt if I did just highway cruising I could get it down as low if not lower than 10's.

Just as a suggestion, how about the Skyline S badge (same as what's on the bonnet/grill of some model skylines) on both sleeves & maybe the Nissan logo on the right front? I reckon it would look good without going over the top. Definantely want a shirt, just gotta make up my mind on what type & size. Not sure about the cap yet

Well there's been a bit happen on here since I last looked & I'm not sure where to start. Busky2k's comments are pretty well spot on, O2 sensor is not the be all & end all of fuel enconomy, but it is definantely a big player & the most common cause of poor fuel economy on EFI vehicles. Yes it's nearly always working appart from nearly full throttle, & even if it didn't how long are you going to hold your foot down any more than half throttle anyway in the suburbs?? No more than a few seconds at a time I'd say, you have no choice but to cruise the rest of the time anyway. Also checking the O2 with a multimeter can sometimes indicate an issue, but isn't always reliable. Your meter needs to be fairly accurate, but is a guide only when dealing with such a low voltage. Hooking up the meter itself can actually change the reading. The only reason I can come up with for a fuel filter causing bad economy is if it was choking the system enough that rail pressure was dropping. This would then also mean that the injectors would not spray correctly & give poor atomisation, meaning you need more fuel to use up the oxygen in the combustion process. However under heavy throttle this would also result in a severely lean mixture as Busky2k has said. As far as stalling issues is concerned, there are a range of things that it can be, though the O2 once again is a good place to start. Check this thread out for more info: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...p;#entry2581556 Also AFM is very unlikely to cause poor fuel economy unless it is stuffed. Cleaning it will actually make the car run richer as a clean AFM measures more air flow & therefore will indicate to the ECU to give more fuel to maintain the right air fuel mix. Some other things that can cause poor economy include a buggered coolant temp sensor, a stuffed thermostat that's always open, poor sprak, poor fuel atomisation (ie bad spray patterns from injectors) etc. Give me more time I'm sure I could come up with more. Just as a general rule of thumb though if the O2 sensor hasn't been changed in quite a while & the car otherwise seems to run ok, try it first it should be done anyway & will save you dosh long term even if there are other problems to also fix.

Thanks for reminding me of that. I said I'll be going on that cruise too so it'd be a good idea not to make it that weekend. Don't wanna stuff up someone elses efforts.

I'm surprise some of you guys have had so much trouble with shannons. I'm not in a club or anything, I don't have a lock up garage (only a carport & thats what I told them). Though I didn't have any speeding fines to my name of any sought. And yes the do give choice of repairer & agreed value, which is always a good thing to have.

Hello guys & gals. Thought since another cruise hasn't been arranged for a while, & christmas is coming up, that I'd put the feelers out on what people would think of having a christmas day cruise with BBQ. Victor Harbour seemed ot be a popular choice of place to head, so if people would be happy with that we'd go there. It would be a fairly full day taking into account preping & cleaning up for the BBQ. If people would prefer we could make it 2 separate occasions (ie Cruise 1 weekend & BBQ somewhere else another, perhaps Belair NP). I figure at least a month is needed to figure stuff out, so start posting now with your opinions if you're keen. Cheers Jared

Perhaps maybe something more could be added to the shirt, just looks a tad plain. Otherwise it looks really good, I'll be up for at least a shirt... Ohh & great marketing work too

Personally I got the 3" Catco steel cat & am very pleased. I got my car dyno'd the same day as another 33 with only a cat back system & had 26KW on him or 177KW at the wheels. No other engine mods besides the full 3" system have been made to my car.

^^ Yep I never had the check engine light come on even if it was disconnected. They can shit themselves very suddenly, but it's relatively rare in comparision to normal degradation failure

Pm sent, cheers

Is the Motul & Redline stuff really that good that you can get double the kays of other brands??? Seems a little optimistic to me. I may have to try it out just to see. Think I'll be going a K&N filter if I do it though, not overly happy with the standard nissan filter. Started having major lifter rattle 1 day for several minutes after start up, was never a problem with the ryco's like that. Car's only done 4000 kays on the filter & oil (Elf Excellium 5W-50)

With the kind of economy you are getting I'd say your O2 sensor is fine at the moment, so no stress, however if you start to notice any economy drop, definantely change it. It's actually more to do with how much engine running your engine has done. If it was a city car it would have done a lot more engine work relative to the kays. 5 years was just a general estimate, sorry if that was a bit misleading. My car actually has less kays on the clock, but I'm pretty sure it was a city car (it was unbelieveably clean) & the O2 still died. It is still good practice to do it before it becomes a problem however. My car became a bit of a pain to drive, stalled really easy. You can then keep it as an emergency spare too. Yes well that's what the consult tells you, but if you are only getting 300 kays to a tank then your O2 sensor is in fact reading incorrectly. O2 sensors read lean with a lower voltage & when they start to get old, usually the start to read low. The ECU trusts it's reading & then compensates with extra fuel (ie richening up the mix) to get the correct reading. If the fuel being used is not outside a set range (& it can be fairly broad) then it will not spit the dummy). Once again if you've never changed it, you should do it anyway. O2 sensor changes should be looked as being a consumable, just like oil as they do deteriorate from the exhaust heat over time.

I wouldn't touch young & cool. When I first bought my 33 & was 23 they wanted a fortune to insure me (rating 1 something like $2300!) & their policy was crap. The other options I had was Just Car Insurance, Unique Car Insurance & Shannons. Both unique car & Just car insurance wanted more to insure me & their conditions were not as goon IMO. Unfortunantely I've had to use my insurance more than once with them & apart from one problem I had with them (& was resolved) they've looked after me very well.

^^ Yes this is abosolutely true you will not gain anything by reving over 6 grand on the stock engine. I always remember it feeling like it was struggling once it got past 6 with the stock exhaust, it was pointless. However with the new exhaust my own flattens in the power department at about 6500 & only just starts to die off before the limiter & is slowly dropping torque throughout the rev range. Driving the car now I sometimes hit the limiter thinking it's got at least another 500 rpm more left in it.... until the mandarory brap brap brap happens & I see the tacho pointing at the red.... Whoops No doubt with a freer flowing & much better cooling front mount the torque would be almost dead flat till at least 5 grand I reckon with much less drop off thereafter.

Don't mean to shoot you down, but tell me this. How often have you seen/heard of a an engine throwing a rod when it's just free reving? Probably never I'd say. 99 times out of a 100 things fail on an engine when under heavy load. Only thing I reckon you're likely to do free reving is hit a valve against a piston if you go beyond it's revving capabilities. I've lost count of the amount of times I've hit the limiter (I can't help myself ) but if the limiter wasn't there, I'd be far more cautious about reving my engine hard. Edit: Yes I agree fuel cut isn't as good, I try to get off it ASAP

Well I know my speedo's pretty accurate to within a couple kays at 100. So I calculated out my speed according to what RPM my tacho was reading (5250 I think it was, it was a fair while ago) & how many kph/1000 rpm the car did in 5th & it worked out to bang on 200kph. However there is a soft cut at 180kph where acceleration dies off very suddenly, so it then creeps to the 200 hard cut. Without the speed limiter the car is theoretically capable of reaching 250kph when hitting the rev limiter in 5th, actually capable if the car has been modified sufficiently. Also the rev limiter is definantely fuel cut. If it was ignition it would pop & crackle & carry on just like a drifter does when they find the limiter.

Series 1 or 2? Series 1 has the ignitor module mounted on top of the coil cover series 2 has ignitor built into the plug. Try putting the other coil packs on #2 cylinder output. If they then work it's not your coils. Pretty unusual to have 5 coils fail.

I had similar problems for a while & it turned out to be vacuum leaks on hoses going to the plenum, meaning the AFM wasn't reading sufficient air flow. So you had to prod the throttle to get the air flowing through the intake instead of where the leaks were. I had an air leak on the hose at the back going to the boost gauge sensor (very common on R33 GTS-T's), but the main leak was due to the dodgy hose setup going to the charcoal canister, which was fitted when the car was complied. Bought & stuck an original one on with all the right sized hosing & it was all good . Try pinching all your vacuum hoses with your fingers while the engine is running & also check for cracks at either end of the hoses & listen for air leaks. If the Idle drops slightly when pinching a hose (and possibly smoothed out too) you've found your problem.