J_Red33

It's looking like it's gonna be a photo finish with me, with the EBC. Got a lot of the wiring installed today. Looks like I'll be spending a lot of the week after work finishing off the install.

I'll be keen to go in again this year. Done a couple more mods since & plan on having a nice shiny Plazmaman FMIC in the next couple of months. Should help with the performance & bling factor

Thought I'd make a point here. If the guy in the Skyline was behind, but not a full car length behind, all he had to do was swerve & tap the other car. Generally the front end of a car is more stable at speed than the rear. Just look at some of the tin-top racing & 9 times out of 10 it's the car in front that goes into the bushes. Alternatively they could have been slowing down from an even higher speed & the Skyline caught up.... If it was a Skyline, I'm still confused as to what's the truth here.

I chased up some information about this just a few days ago as I'm sticking a Sard regulator on my car. Pressure is meant to be about 305 kPA without vacuum & 255kPA at idle with vacuum.

You can buy a set of stock rims for $300!

Much prettier alternative to a car bra . Looks like good stuff if it's fitted professionally

If only I hadn't spent money on my interenet I may have been interested. Next time!

If they have the same coloured wires, same connector & same size fitting they should be interechangeable no worries. Steve, give the boys another call about it, they may be able to confirm if it is in fact the same. This is an awesome price for these sensors. You will not get them cheaper than this.

Covered the RCA routing bit as best as possible on my ride. Unless Cadence RCA leads are crap I can't do any more there. Besides that I get feedback through the speakers from the amp with the RCA's disconnected! I tried this with more than 1 amp, hanging the thing away from everything just about outside the car. So I've definantely got a direct issue with the power lines to the amp. Was looking at the Jaycar filters, though their current rating isn't real high. May give that a go.

All well & good using the Ford sensor if it's the same wire configuration & range. You do have to be careful how you set them up though. To adapt the Ford sensor to the original connector, all terminals should be crimped using heavy duty connections NOT soldered. Then the crimps should be wrapped in something like a heat resistant vulcanising tape. If you solder wires you risk having issues with readings later on when the joints fail, & they will fail. Additionally soldering alters the voltages on what is a very sensitive piece of equipment. It only takes small variations with an O2 sensor for the ecu to interpret things quite differently. While testing with a Multimeter is good for a basic functional test, I wouldn't be willing to bet my life that it's working 100%. O2 sensors do deteriorate with age & use. After only about 60,000km's mine was stuffed, & it never worked as good as it should from the moment I had the car at only half those kays. Madaz, if you're looking for a supplier I know someone that may be able to get you a pretty good price for a group in either Bosch or NTK (otherwise known as NGK when it comes to spark plugs). The Bosch ones are quite expensive. I personally run an NTK sensor in mine on the stock ECU & it runs really sweet, with good power & economy.

Forgot to update on here what happend with mine. I ended up measuring on the car with an oscilloscope I borrowed from work 3 Volt spikes from my alternator (ie 3 volts on top of the 14.4V the alternator is already generating). When the alternator was disconnected & I ran the engine the noise was gone. I ended up purchasing a remanufactured R31 Ti alternator as it is the same current rating, but has a slightly larger pulley so it is wise to get a 10mm longer belt, though I did manage to get it on with the same belt I already had. Result? Well it hasn't cured the problem but there is a definite improvement. My speaker feedback has probably halved & it doesn't sound as fuzzy as it did before. Still not the total answer though. Not sure what I'll try next, possibly a power Cap could filter it out. May give that a go

Seen leaking seals on these types of injectors before, although only once bad enough to be a real problem. It's probably the worst thing about side feed injectors, if the lower seals on the intake side are leaking, you can't tell without pulling it appart. Not to mention they're an absolute pain to get out of the rail. Must be a lot of unburnt fuel for it to end up in your oil. Are you down on power too? A couple of quick tips with these too. If you find yourself hacking the philips screw heads, get some vice grips or something similar, clamp the head of the screw with them & turn the screws that way. Hex head screws are a better idea & I'd recommed you replace them with these. Use a socket bit that fits around the head of the injector to press the injector out of the rail rather than try leaver it out from the top with screwdrivers, which could break them. Thirdly, when you put the new ones in, lightly smear vaseline on the seals so that it pops in easy & properly. Do all that & it should be a cinch

Put money on tickets today, so I'll definantely be there sunday

I may be going Sunday, just general admission though, don't have tickets yet.

HKS Squential Blow-Off Valve to Suit R33 GTS-T (Possibly R32 & R34 as well if same flange fitting) Chrome plating chipped in several places, but mechanically in very good condition. Unwanted birthday present. Don't want an Atmospheric BOV. $100 o.n.o. PM if interested Jared SOLD

I wouldn't recommend you go higher than the standard rating or you could have overheating issues instead. 20 minutes is way too long for it to reach 72 degrees in the summer. Sounds like the thermostat is definantely shagged. My 33 was taking that long to reach operating temp in the summer & then in winter it wouldn't reach it at all. Changed the thermostat & it was up to temp in about 5 minutes regardless. Fair call on the temp sensor location too Cubes. You would definantely expect it to be hotter where the temp sensor is located. So if it was meant to be reading 80 at the sensor when it's 76.5 down the bottom, that means when the sensor's only reading 72 degrees your thermostat it flat out at 68.5!

If you're going to go to the trouble of checking it. Get a new one put it in there & be done with it. The bolts on that thermostat housing are a prick of a thing to get to. Genuine thermostat shouldn't be too expensive, think I paid about $40 from memory (don't quote me) & they're very good quality. Standard thermostat on R33's has an opening temperature of 76.5 degrees. So if it's anything below that (provided your sensor is reading correctly) it's definantely stuffed. I would be surprised if it's the whole answer to your problems, since your economy is particularly bad, but it could definantely be one of possibly several contributors. The best thing about this is that every part that gains you economy will pay for itself fairly quickly in fuel savings.

Yeah you just have to remember with that rating that's on a combined fuel cycle of city & highway driving. Around town I chew no more than 12L per 100km as previously stated (got 11.73 on my fill today, & that was with the use of aircon), but if I do long country drives it'll hit the low 9's. Half way in between is about 10.5, so sounds about right

Had missed this thread. I'm keen to go too

Well that buys me some time to install & set up my EBC, so I should almost certainly give my line a run. Only suggestions I have is to avoid Australia Day weekend (26th Jan) & the Clipsal 500 (21st - 24th Feb), I'm definantely going, even if I only see the Supercar display . Have to see a Veyron with my own eyes.

I do actually go to the Autobarn down Noarlunga a bit myself & a few of the guys down there know their stuff, just a matter of who you get. As Psyko says it is a general automotive store so it can be a bit hard to remember everything for every car. There will always be people stuff up no matter where u go. I've generally had better experiences with them than say places like Sprint, or Repco etc. which are their main competition. Having said that I've never bought any major performance parts from them purely because they're generally a bit pricey for that gear.

Am interested, but may work yet I don't know. Trying hard to save up as much money as I can for a front mount

Not mine Joel . I get 400 - 450 km's to about 50 litres around town (400ish if I use the aircon a lot & drive it really hard). Fuel economy was terrible before I changed my O2 sensor which appeared to die from being removed from the stock dump & into the new one when I had my exhaust fitted. Was alright for a couple of weeks & then economy went out the window & the car was using about 15L/100km, after I changed the sensor it went down to under 12. Another thing I've had cause my economy to drop was the thermostat, which when I pulled it out had a broken seal (standard 33 thermostats have a rubber seal to prevent any flow when cold). Never got up to temperature in winter & was chewing probably at least an extra 1 to 1.5 litres per 100 km from running too cold. Cleaning the injectors I can personally vouch can make a big improvement if they are dirty. I used to do injector testing & sometimes when they'd come in they could be spraying a solid jet of fuel, which is no good for vapourisation. This would be an especially good idea if your fuel was rather dirty. Pleanty of things to check.

Will probably turn up for a snag & a chin wag. Not sure if I'll run my car or not yet, depends if I manage to get the EBC I've ordered, set up in time for the day. Otherwise it will be the same as last time

Yeah I'm keen to go this year hey. Haven't been since I was too young to drink . Went to Munich earlier in the year & the beer was fantastic, & so were the women (drool) pitty they don't import them too....