cactus

Put my car back on the dyno last night to check out new cams... Forged RB30 bottom end RB25 head with 256 poncams GT35R (0.82r) + 6Boost 550cc, aftermarket intake etc. KEAS fully manual/built RE4031A, 4500rpm stall 398rwhp @ 17psi Makes peak power @ 7500rpm didnt bother touching the adj. gears as this is enough power with the auto for now. 11.3 AFRs and I think it was around 15 deg timing up top. Is good fun. Cams made a rediculous difference, makes 70rwhp more through entire rev range, and makes power through to 7500 (rev limit, power was still climbing).

Can anyone tell me how thick the top of a CP piston for Nissan RB30/25 (86.5mm 9.0:1 comp) is, or roughly what it is? Any info ASAP would be awesome.

Wouldn't have a clue what the clearances are, I didn't build the motor. If it was blow by, wouldn't there be heaps of smoke coming from exhaust as a result of oil burning where it should'nt be? Dipstick is fine, its just the sump-block thats having issues. Motor is in good nick, recently had the head off (while installing cams I made a boo boo), and bores were fine. Pistons do have a lot of play, but apparently they (according to setting provided with pistons, being CP make) require this... Will do a comp test, but motor is very strong. Doesn't blow much oil at all/doesnt use any oil, until it starts squirting out the side lol. VVT/head drain T's into turbo oil return.

Sorry, wrote that in a rush yesterday... blows the seal between the block and the gasket and starts shooting oil from there. Bigger breathers on the cam covers, with 18mm lines to a catch can which has a decent filter on top. This reduced the amount of pressure, but still having issues.

Hey guys, Hoping someone might have some advice. I have an RB30/25, series 2 block with a series 2 RB25 head (turbo). head is standard with poncams, motor is built with 8.9:1 comp ratio, 20 though bored and thats about it. I havent installed oil restirctors or anything like that. Have good oil pressure, good compression, and motor is strong. One issue I have though, is the motor seems to be pressurising the sump. I can't work out why... A lot of the time it has blow oil out the side of the sump under full load. Not sure what info anyone needs, but any ideas as to what it could be and how to fix would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Matt.

My old RB20 red-top (which daily saw 9000rpm) had done just over 200,000kms and was running 250rwhp. Was still happy as larry when I replaced it.

Ah well... in my experience it works fine - as with many other mates who did the same with their 30DET combo. I'm just going off my experience, and the many opinions I was given from builders/tuners saying an aftermarket balancer isn't really necessary. In saying that - I'm not gonna argue with you - cause I'm sure you would know a lot more than me!

I wouldnt waste my money on an aftermark balancer... each to their own I guess, but in my opinion for a street car that won't be seeing stupid revs, it is a waste of money. Would upgrade the injectors, I run 550cc on my 30DET with GT35R 0.82 and they do the job (if you have money go bigger to save yourself in future). I would definitely upgrade to an 044 pump - I was running and 040 and we had to stop tuning past 5500rpm on high boost as it was leaning out.

Hey, Been off-line for a bit. The first set of coils I had (standard items) I killed as a result of wiring on my behalf. This was sorted, but instead of putting in standard coils, I used a set of Splitfires instead. The Splitfires lasted about 8 - 12 months, and then one started to fault (i.e. it would cut in and out, so on warm up the car would only run on 5 cylinders). After a while a second coil started having the same problem so I got rid of them and started running the standard coils. These are the ones which are now playing up under boost. I dont think its any other issue other than, the current ones are 10 - 15 years old and are finally giving way. I'm not sure whether to get a brand new set of Nissan coils, or try something else.

Looking at using a different coil set up on my 30DET. At the moment, I am running a series 2 head with standard coils. This has been fine for a while, but just after the drags a few weeks ago car started having issues on full boost, and now I am certain its the coils breaking down. I don't want to waste my time/money with splitfires (again), in my opinion/experience they are shit. Anyone have any suggestions as to what I could use? A workshop over here runs Hyundai Sonata coils on a 1000rwhp+ 2JZ, so was considering looking into this. Just wondering if there is anything else out there that is known to be effective on any RB. Cheers, Matt.

... I am not talking about companies copying designs for the same component, I am talking about your comparison between Spool's NISSAN RB30 stroker and the HKS TOYOTA 2JZ stroker. He cannot copy this design. It has nothing to do with developing something myself and understanding R+D.

Actually, I will stay out of this. Rob is probably very upset as he put a lot of effort/money into his desgin. I still think Spool isnt in the wrong.

Figured I would do a quick update... Finally bothered to take my car down the strip. I had planned to run my full slicks, however I ran out of time to change the springs in the rear (to stock items) so I didnt bother. Figured I would go down and have some fun. Car at the moment is currently making 351rwhp @ 16psi, it is a very mild tune with little timing/bulk fuel. It has previously made 390rwhp @ 18psi. It is an RB30/25DET with GT3582R, 0.82r. I run a KEAS RE401A, fully built, manualised with 4500rpm stall. I wasnt expecting much last night. de-tuned on street tyres, I figured with wheel spin I would run some mid 12s/13s. First run @ 10psi (low boost setting), went 12.8 @ 115mph. Was pretty happy, had absolutely no traction in 1st and 2nd gear till 1/4 track. Second run, 12.1 @ 114mph running 16psi. Was very, very happy. Again, no traction in 1st/2nd, 2.1 60 foot time as a result. Car felt good. Third run (and final), 11.82 @ 116mph. At this point I am screaming cause I am over the moon. 1.9 60 foot with bulk wheel spin in first gear, grip in 2nd. Was promptly asked to reduce boost or not run again. I am a happy man. Car will be back on dyno in a few weeks to run some more boost/push it. Will take it down with some slicks and front runners, and I will strip the stereo (200kg in boot) and see what I can do. a low eleven would be nice! Cheers, Matt.

Not a chance in hell a 170rwkw Skyline is pulling sub 5 second 0-100kmh sprints. Thats like a kid at school once telling me: Kid - "Hey Matt, my car does 100km/h in 4.1 seconds" Me - "f**k, thats quick for a stock carby 308, how did you measure that?" Kid - "My stop watch" Me - "f**k yeah" This was his stock as a rock VK Calais. Same/Same.

Send some pics through to [email protected] ASAP. Cheers, Matt.

Lol I see what you did there Yeah you are right about where it was. I'll see what happens. Annoying thing is, this exact set-up with the GT3082R on it saw 380rwhp @ 18psi on ovaboost dyno.

Lol no, its a real one It was rebuilt by Grant at Per4manz here in Perth. Not sure, but I remember everyone saying how it has to be either 6 or 7 blades (one being inferior) and mine was the correct number of blades (just cant remember what that was). 0.82r and 0.7a/r. Will try and get a copy of the dyno sheet ASAP for everyone to check out. Needless to say, I am shattered with its current state lol.

It's an EMS Stinger... the baby one. The timing on the computer is the same as what it is up front. Initially, this wasnt the case. It was 20 degrees at the computer and 25 degrees up front. But they adjusted this yesterday. Damn, I was getting my hopes up thinking the VCT could make a big difference to the output. Are there any issues associated with running it from 0 - 7000RPM?

I didn't realise it was that low? What should it be around? Also... does anyone know if the exhaust housing of the turbo, being an internally gated turbo (with port now just blocked off as I am running external) would be a significant restriction, and whether it would be worthwhile replacing the housing for a proper external gate one? I dont want to spend $700 on a housing for little gain.

OK. Will make efforts to suss that out then. Running a 6-Boost too so plenty of flow there

Pretty sure the timing belt is set-up right. All marks match up correctly and the engine has been running for about 5000kms. Well, the white dot on the passnger side cam gear is slightly off-line from the mark on the back cover, but definitely not one tooth out... I can probably get a dyno sheet up at some point if you think it would be worth it? Will have to ask the guy that tuned it to send one through to me first. Yeah... it is missing a stupid amount of power. Yeah the auto sucks a bit, but I thought it would still make around 400rwhp on a normal dyno.

One thing we do have to fix is the VVT. Electronically, its not working. Hopefully it's an issue with the wiring rather than the ECU. The EMS is supposed to be able to run it.

I'm becoming very frustrated with my current engine... Basic rundown - its an RB30DET being an R33 S2 turbo head (completely stock). The bottom end is built, with CP pistons, eagle rods etc. and a final CR of 8.9:1 It runs a GT35R internal gated exhaust housing, but running external. (.82) It has all the supporting mods necessary, and runs an EMS stinger. 2.5" intake piping, 80mm TB, 3" dump and straight exhaust. I run a built RE401A, KEAS full manual box, all upgraded internals, and a 4200RPM stall from MV. This bucket of shit will not make any power. It's killing me. I have had it on a few dyno's to see what each person thinks, and no one can give me an answer. Yesterday, on a 'hub' dyno, it made an incredible 352rwhp @ 17psi. 16 degrees of timing all up. AFR's around 11.8 and peak power @ 7100rpm engine speed. What the F#ck can I do? It's hard to say if it is lacking power because I am yet to take it down the strip. At one point, it managed to make 340rwhp @ 11psi but I think this was a relatively lean tune with heaps of timing. I'm going insane. I am starting to think that maybe the auto isnt working with the combo. I know power figures are not everything, but this sort of power doesnt make any sense out of an GT35R fed RB30/25. I dont know what I am asking from you guys. I guess some suggestions/advice about anything really. I am lost.

Not really something I need for the pits... rather diagnostic purposes. Would someone be willing to lend me their split-fire coils for one day (29th of March) to see if it is a spark issue I am having. Will only be used on a dyno for 1 hour max. Would be hugely appreciated and I can supply beer Please let me know. Am desperate. Edit: should probably mention that I need some for S2 R33 ...

Damn... I'm not sure how my car will run in the heat, but I'm pretty sure it will go very close this weekend (and definitely dip into the elevens once I sort this RPM issue out - I wouldnt be surprised if it ran an eleven as it is)I thought it wasn't until you were going low elevens that they started picking on you. I'll never have a harness in my car So are you still allowed to run WAW even though your well under 11.8 without harness/license etc?