cactus

PM sent.

Sorry if this has been covered, can anyone tell me if the exhaust ports are the same between the R34 and R33 head (RB25)? ie. will an exhaust manifold from a series 2 rb25 fit a neo head? Cheers, Matt.

Hey guys, a few things I wouldnt mind offloading... Looking for a change! Item: Garrett GT3040R, 0.82r, 0.70 a/r Description: Turbo is brand new, I have the receipt somewhere. It has been running on my RB25 for about 5000km's on 16psi max boost. Made 360rwhp through a built auto and 4000rpm stall and I have hit 116mph with 1700kgs and woeful 60 foot time. Not laggy at all, can provide a dyno sheet if someone would like. Full boost by 4000rpm. Exhaust housing is ceramic coated, and will come with a dump pipe to suit external gate setup. Reason: Genuine! Cost: Not sure, $1400ono? Would like to get rid of it real soon so please make an offer! Item: Japanese Exhaust Manifold, ceramic coated and match ported (not bad at all) Description: Has been on my RB25 for about 10,000km and has flowed as much as 392rwhp through an auto box. Is in excellent condition, has some staining on the coating because of an oil leak but otherwise is perfect. Has not cracks. Has setup for external gate, which is loacted in correct position below the collectors. Have never had any boost issues. Reason: Same as above! Cost: $250 Will sell together cheaper if someone wants! Oops. Contact Details - easiest just to pm me on here for now! Cheers, Matt.

Yeah same here ... I know a lot of cars that make 'close' to 1000hp, but still not 1000hp.

As stated in my other posts, GT3082R

Lasted 6 months... and the only reason it died was my laziness. Nothing else. From my own experience, having a GT30 on my RB25, I think it is an excellent turbo. My car drives incredibly smoothe, power is incredible, delivery is excellent etc. But Mick at ovaboost would have to be the best RB tuner in WA. Tune is where its at! I'm sure any car would be a pig to drive with a poor tune.

Not necessarily. My stock RB25 running the GT3082R made peak power @ 8000rpm, power was still climbing then too but tuner didnt want to go past this because of the stock bottom end. I was running turbo, stock exh. mani modified, greddy style intake + 80mm TB, 550cc, EMS, 910 fuel pump, billet rail with larger fittings/lines, splitfires etc. but beyond add ons, engine was completely stock. It lasted a little while, until I put a good exh. manifold on it and didnt check boost, free flow = 26+ psi lol and killed 2 pistons on a cruise.

GT3082R... I have one on my RB25 and is not as laggy as people make out. I run an auto and make 260rwkw (15psi) but has gone as high as 290rwkw (20psi and smaller convertor, on ovaboost dyno here in WA which is very very low reading). So I'm sure it will make bulk power on a manual. You can buy my turbo if you want But honestly the 3082R I believe is a great turbo. Full boost well before 4000rpm, not sure where exactly, but holds strong through to 8200rpm

1700kg including driver, 260rwkw and I hit 111mph. Its in a HQ so not very slick

Hello! I need this stuff gone, sitting in garage and I am never going to use it. The items are for the Nissan Auto-box, I think the model is RE401A? I have had it in an R33 box. I know it also fits 31/32 box also. Item: ~3000rpm Mall (more?) Stall from AllFast Condition: Excellent. Used for under 3000km's Price: Paid $700, looking for whatever someone is willing to offer. $350ono for arguments sake Location: Perth, will post at buyers expense. Comments: I have a mall-stall here from All-Fast, you can see about 2800rpm out of it (I have 4.11s and GT30R with 0.82r and saw this) and I only had it in car less than 3000km's before changing gearbox's. It gets rid of slip and makes a massive difference to performance. Good upgrade for any standard auto running a little extra power. Make me whatever offer I just want it gone!!! Item: Shift kit from XSpeed Condition: Excellent. Used for under 600km's Price: Paid $450, looking for $250ono Location: Same as above Comments: Shift kit is from XSpeed. Makes a massive improvement to shift time and performance and will save your box over long term. This was used for about 6000km's before I changed box. Its just a direct change of valve body from your standard one. I paid $450, but also just want it gone. I'm in perth. I can get pictures later tonight if really needed but there aint much to look at. Contact: Matt PM me on here, or email me [email protected] SOMEOE BUY! Cheers, Matt

380rwhp using 93 octane fuel ... wouldnt help your cause. My old RB20 used to ping its head off when I went from 98 - 95, but I guess if its tuned with 93 it might not be such a bid deal?

keep us all posted!

My Splitfire coils are less than a year old and I have had two die on me. Same thing, would mis like crazy when on full boost and up in the revs. put two stockers in and it runs perfect. easiest way to check is just put in stock ones, process of elimination!

Haha yeah cheers. Hence the reason for using an RB25 RB power haha.

Went down to the drags last Wednesday. Unfortunately I only got one run in, somehow the sump split and it dropped a heap of oil at the end of the pass, but I got the time slip so may aswell post details 1973 HQ 4 door weighing 1690kg with driver (me = 90kg) RB25, was running 15psi @ 256kw, 3600rpm hi stall (didnt stall on this run though) KEAS full manual V/B 12.9 @ 111mph 2.4 60' time - which was a little disappointing Street tyres, traction issues in 1st gear but nothing too serious So, when I take it down next time hopefully I can drop 60' time down to 1.9ish and maybe run a very very low 12. Will see what happens!

lol, why bother asking for help then...

Yeah that definitely makes a lot of sense, it kind of makes previous posts look about injector requirements excessive. to achieve say 480hp at the flywheel, which I assume is the correct measure when looking at the assumption 6cc fuel per hp, then 'theoretically' 550cc comfortably deliver the fuel requirements to make that 480hp. 1000cc as suggested is a little overkill... I was more just wondering why so many people suggest massive size injectors for an engine that is not really making HUGE power But thank you for the response! R

Is it just something about RB's that require massive injectors? Not having a stab at anyone, just posing the question... My old man runs a TT 1UZFE, it makes 480rwhp @ 9psi and uses 340cc injectors at I think 70% or so duty cycle So many people told me to go 550cc or bigger when building my RB25 and aiming for around 500hp at the fly (makes around 380 @ 18psi through built auto + 4200 stall) Something to do with boost or engine design or something?

500hp at the rears, are you serious? For your street car ... Have you been in a car with 'just' 300hp at the rears? Even something like that is a handful. Go with one of the smaller turbos suggested, If you are already using the car for drift purposes as it is, any one of those turbo's suggested is going to make your day a little more fun. 500hp it insane ... and the lag to go with

Yes, if he had the money. But with only the money from the Government, I assume a full ECU is out of the question, and with the limited mods its not necessary yet. a $300 SAFC is going to be a far better option in the short term, will give you probably just as good results with the mods he currently has, and still lots of money left over for a tune with the SAFC, and probably installation costs if he cant wire it himself.

Yes its a retarded effort by the government. I say get something as simple as an SAFC2. If your only making 160rwkw atm then a stand alone is a little over the top, I put an SAFC2 on my old RB20 with 25 turbo, 3" system, front mount and 11psi and it made 245rwhp through the auto. Picked up 35 hp just from the SAFC tune and the car was incredible to drive, so smoothe etc. That way you can spend the left over money on what ev

Surely intake plenum wouldnt make that much difference even if it were slightly out. I run one, have made 387rwhp @ 18psi through a built auto with mine before and I had to do a lot of cleaning to the ports to get it to match right... I didnt think it would impact that much??

I have had an RB25 running in my HQ for past two years, and an RB20 in it before that, like you said match made in heaven haha! Did you change timing belt? When I first put a rb30e in my HQ it was a tooth out, ran awesome but was a slug. But the fact you said it revs well is probably suggesting it aint that. 4.39 is pretty high, I have 4.11's with auto and it revs like mad. Good luck with it though.

Where can you purchase inidividual splitfire coils from?

who can repair coils? I have splitfires in mine atm, sometimes when I leave car to warm up in morning, it will run on 5 cylinders, ill go out, disconnect connection to coil #3, plug it back in and away it goes back on 6 cylinders. But when I drive and give it a little stick, it starts miss-firing so i assume its that faulty coil?