cactus

lol. I didn't realise you need so much gear if you ran under 11.99. What happens if on the day you do this? How do you apply/get ANDRA license and is this the same as a CAMS license?

Its only a 2.5Ltr in the end... Surely someone with your knowledge would know that you're not guaranteed 400rwhp with a GT3582R etc. Like I said, jump on the FI thread and you will see for yourself. A lot of people on there running 3076/GT35Rs hitting 380 - 400rwhp with big boost (20psi). It just seems that everyone carries on about cars making 450rwhp 'easily' when really thats not the case.

My GT3082R on my RB25 was a brilliant turbo... relatively responsive and went hard. Jesus some of you guys inflate power outputs and what people should expect from their car. Jump on the RB25 results thread, you dont see too many people with bolt on mods cracking 400rwhp (genuine). Its not that easy.

I used to run a built RB25 in my HQ (auto box) making 280ish rwkw @ 20psi. It was very fast once on boost (GT3082R) but it was still relatively laggy with this turbo. I then built a RB30 bottom end and matched it to the same turbo, the car made more power @ 18psi and 1000ish RPM earlier. It was the best decision I ever made and I absolutely regret wasting my money on building the original RB25. The 30 is just so much smoother and nicer to drive. So much power and torque down low and it just pulls and pulls and pulls. If I could do it all again, I would go straight to an RB30 bottom end... Especially on a street car when low RPM cruising is essential. I'm now running a GT3540 and it still makes boost earlier than the 25 with small turbo and its a billion times better to drive. Thats my experience

Would love to see some pics of catch can setup! When do you plan on taking this down to the strip...? Did you run the old set-up down the 1/4 mile... would be good to get a comparison between the two set ups!

.82r ... its the exact same housing as the older 30R but just machined out to fit the larger exhaust wheel. No cat, just a muffle towards the end of the system (being a 3" mandrel).

Maybe someone get shed some light on my current set-up and the issues I am having... Im running a built RB30 bottom end with standard 25 vct head. The old set-up was running a GT3082r (0.82r) with 6 boost and supporting mods and made 280rwkw @ 17psi. This is through a built 5speed auto, fully manualised with 4500rpm stall. I then changed to a GT35R with the same mods. On 11psi, the car made 246rwkw @ 7100rpm. We then upped the boost to 18psi, however the car only went 260rwkw and stopped making power after 6000rpm (sharply). Any ideas what this could be? A few people have mentioned valve float but I also dont know how to verify this.

Maybe someone get shed some light on my current set-up and the issues I am having... Im running a built RB30 bottom end with standard 25 vct head. The old set-up was running a GT3082r (0.82r) with 6 boost and supporting mods and made 280rwkw @ 17psi. This is through a built 5speed auto, fully manualised with 4500rpm stall. I then changed to a GT35R with the same mods. On 11psi, the car made 246rwkw @ 7100rpm. We then upped the boost to 18psi, however the car only went 260rwkw and stopped making power after 6000rpm (sharply). Any ideas what this could be? A few people have mentioned valve float but I also dont know how to verify this.

It was a direct swap. Last time with the 3082r it reved fine to 7000rpm and made 380rwhp... So yeah. How could I best check to see if it is valve float or something similar? Shouldnt the series 2 head be OK under that power? It was refreshed about 5000kms ago so eally not that old at all.

Hey guys, Have an RB30/25 (series 2 R33 head) which I have just strapped a GT35R on. Now before this turbo, it had a GT3082R and made 382rwhp @ 18psi (built auto and big stall) and was mental. Upgraded turbo because the old one shat itself, and was thinking this time round I would crack 400rwhp easily and rev just as hard (prebiously made peak power at 7100rpm). Now, had the car tuned yesterday, made 347rwhp @ 11psi @ 6900rpm which was promising, then went up to 18psi and wouldnt go past 355rwhp...@ 6000rpm! As soon as it hit 6000, the power dropped off as if it was hitting limiter, but limiter was still set at 7000rpm. Very much confused. Makes bullshit torque and still goes hard, but cant understand why it wont rev past 6000rpm and why it made little power with such a massive increase in boost. Unfortunately I dont have a dyno graph. Any words would be greatly appreciated! Matt.

How oftren do you actually drive it on the street (serious question)?

Update: Rb25/30 375rwhp @ 18psi. Will be going back on the dyno this week as there were some cooling issues on the dyno. But I wouldnt expect it to pick up much more than 10 - 15rwhp. Can someone possibly explain why my figure appears relatively low compared to most others on here. RB30 with series 2 turbo 25 head GT3082 - .82r EMS Stinger 550cc Inj. GReddy plenum 80mm TB 6 boost 3" exhaust Built botto end with 8.9:1 comp I am guessing my read out appears low because of the auto. Its a KEAS built auto, fully manualised box with 4200rpm stall. I will try upload a dyno sheet tonight.

RB25/30 Stock Head Built bottom end GT3082R, EMS, 550cc, 6Boost etc. 246.3rwhp @ 6psi. Was the second run just starting the full tune and sump split. Made a shit load of torque and looks promising. Will get graph up tonight.

+1 ... will look the goods.

What precautions are you talking of? Warming up before running/fresh oil etc. or something more?

Correct. All I did was the grub screw mod to stop oil/water mixing. Bolted the head on (of course all of this on the advice of engine builder) and it works fine. This has been done on my mates twin came RB30 and his also works.

Pushing that much power with an auto I would be looking at picking up a shift kit and after market converter... My stock gearbox lasted a couple of days even with a shift kit running 240rwkw. I put another standard box in thinking the previous one may have been a bit tired, and this one died a day later also lol. Killed drive and reverse which apparently work off the same clutches. If you are keen on getting this gear, let me know. I pretty much have a brand new converter (3000rpm) and shift kit I would let you have rediculously cheap just to get it out of my house haha. If not keen on second hand gear, speak to Mike at MV automatics.

Wouldn't think it would be stale fuel. My old man had BP98 sitting in his tank for over 2 years... when he finally got around to starting the car on that fuel it was fine!

Have you had problems with Mick's tuning in the past? From my experience he is the bomb and wouldnt think you would need to change unless something went wrong. But then again, there is no harm in trying someone else! Looking forward to results Brocka's.

Its amazing the number of different opinions you get on oils... I guess everyone has their own experiences/bias. But thank you for all your replies, it has been a massive help. I called my tuner last night to see what he said (I really trust this guy) and he suggested a 20W-60 mineral based oil for the first 5000km's, which is what I'm going to go with. After this, I think I will give the Motul a shot as everyone has suggested! So I bought Penrite HPR30 last night. This will be used for my power tune and the first 5000km's. I will let you know how it all goes and what I think of it Again, thank you for all your replies!

Ah I see, I see. Yeah, it is driven on the street a lot. Probably be racing at the stip 2 times a month, and a track night once every 2 - 3 months. I do beat up on it when driving on the street though, certainly doesn't get babied. However, no matter where I drive I always allow it to get up to running temp before I drive off. Just a habbit I have as the car and running gear truly has cost me a fortune (and I love my car and look after her ) I was a major fan of Penrite oils, but I was convinced to go Castrol. Maybe I will go back, or possibly give Motul a shot. Considering I allow the car to warm up before I drive, the lower range (i.e 5w - 10w) wouldnt really affect my decision? - I'm considering going back to Penrite HPR 10w-40. Also, is full synthetic preferrable to semi?

Midland Engine Centre will do the build if you ask them. And that package you said sounds decent. But I would consider looking at Spool Imports website. They come with rods, pistons, bearings and head gasket for around $2500. All forged, ARP rod bolts and you can choose comp. Probably the cheapest option as second hand RB26's are still pretty expensive - this way also you will have a brand new engine, so you know condiiton and can expect a good life from the motor. If you're not comfortable with the engine transplant, contact Mike Don @ RT Conversions. No one would have heard of them, they do very specialised stuff. In fact, its my old man We built my RB30/25 which runs in a 1973 Holden HQ (initially was running an RB30e back in 05) and has also dropped a TT-1UZFE in his 2 Door GTS. Is also building a 67 Mustang fastback with 08 Mustang running gear. Him and my uncle Nino (proprieter) can do it all and I guarantee it will cost you half what any workshop will quote. Otherwise, take it to a workshop you can trust i.e All-star or Ovaboost. That way if problems do occur you can take it back to them any time and get them to fix it.

Yeah it wasn't the builders advice, it was from a guy that owns an Auto One store here in Perth, but he is also heavily involved in rally etc. so knows his shit. Why does 10-60 sound so ridiculous? Is that quite a high heat rating or something? I jumped on the Castrol website and they carry on about that specific oil being best suited for cars seeing high revs lots/beating up on the engine etc. Just want to make sure I'm using the right oil from the outset.

I highly doubt its the oil filter... I have never used a genuine filter on any car I have ever owned and they are fine. I would try using a thicker oil... Sucks that its knocking.

I plan to run Castrol Edge (gold bottle) 10-60 in my freshly built RB30DET when it goes on the dyno for its final tune (with 18psi). Does this oil sound alright? I really have no idea what to use, this was on the advice of a few people who deal the stuff...