cactus

Not sure if this has been mentioned... I recently got my RB25/30 running (last Tuesday). I did the mod for the VCT, however, all I did was grub screw the hole in the head, with no other modification. My VCT works perfect. No oil control/lack of oil issues or anything (this was mod was done on the advice of my engine builder). Discuss.

Gary - Its the series 2 block with a rebuild kit from Spool Imports (with 9.0:1 CP pistons), standard head with a slight port/polish, 6 boost manifold, GT30R, EMS Stinger, 550cc inj., Greddy intake 80mm TB. Bit of other gear. Spent a bit of money, was considering building an RB26 head for it, but bought myself a house instead and a trip to Europe lol so funds are very dry! The KEAS box is brilliant. Tough as hell. Manual valve body makes things a little less street orientated. But hey, its worth it. Big stall doesnt help also. DJ - Yeah it used to have a built 25, but was lacking the torque a 1700kg box required. In the rev range it was fine, but down low (as shown by a 2.4 60 foot time with a 4200rpm stall) it was struggling. The decision to go to a built RB30 seems to be a good one, so far! Conversion wise, it was tough. Engine mounts are from CMS, but my old man had to fabricate the new sump, gearbox crossmember and sump. Modify exhaust manifold (keep turbo away from inner guard), our own wiring loom etc. Biggest issue was not being able to fix a manual box in the car, the gear selector sits too far back on any RB box, so had to go auto (which has worked out well anyways) - so I'm running the RE401A. The RB25 pulled it beautifully, only reason I went 30 was for drags Otherwise, its a perfect combination. I think a ute might be a bit of a dog though, leaf springs and little weight in the back. Rather than dog I should say a handful!

I run a KEAS built box with a full manual valve body, bloody awesome fun, but doesn't support a transbrake Got my RB30DET running on Tuesday night with run in tune on Wednesday... Holy shit, you can instantly notice the difference in torque. I have a GT30R running on the side, and it is about as laggy as the stock turbo on the 25 was lol. It is incredible how different the car feels and pulls down low in the rev range. I thought there would be a difference, but not that huge! Gets tune in two weeks so will definitely post up details, and my drag time that same week

Haha yeah I knew that, I accidently quoted your reply and not the one above you! My apologies

Nope, cant remember the mob who does the machining. But its a big player, will ask tonight if you like. Ask to speak to John Preece, he will pull motor out of car, build it, and get it running again. Obviously it will be a lot more expensive if he does the engine swap for you.

Midland Engine Centre on Military Road... Very close family friend who has built my last 2 engines, and many other race cars. Very good engine builder, not too pricey and good turn around time.

I have just finished building my new RB30 bottom end, goes in for run in tune next Monday and then will add a heap of boost two weeks after that (assuming I get enough Km's on it). I will definitely post new power + torque with my auto against my old RB25 set up. Will also be interesting to see how my 60ft times work out considering my RB25 wouldnt dip under 2.4 seconds with a 4000rpm stall!

The problem is getting a place such as Performance Unlimited (V8 specialists...) to tune a Jap motor. I would be taking it to ovaboost or all-star. I'll be sure to tell your dad that tonight when I call him

Dyno results?

How difficult is it to cut into the exhaust housing to make that modification for the wastegate? Can it be done at home if you have the necessary skills/tools i.e. is it simply cutting a 45mm (45mm gate) size hole anywhere on the exhaust housing and welding a bend to it?

I dont mean to take over this thread, just a question which is relative to some posts in here... What do you believe is the best way to bed the rings with a fresh motor? My new 30/25 combo will be ready soon, and I was told by a very reputable tuner/builder to start the engine from cold, and let it idle, every min for 10 mins bring the revs up to about 2500rpm for a few seconds (repeat this). Then turn engine off, let it cool completely, and then do this again 3 times a day for a couple of days. Then take it off to get its run in tune. What do you think? I hear ACL bearings are very particular and require babying within the first few hundred km's And as asked, what is the best oil to use on run in and once the first 1500km's have been brought up...

I thought that was pretty impressive considering the boost...

I must be a retard because I cant find what I am looking for even though I am sure its somwhere... If I am going to put forged RB25 pistons (20 thou oversize) and eagle rods out of the same motor into an RB30 block, will comp ratio still be reasonable (8:1 or 8.5:1)? This combination will be fine I assume as in the .pdf its stated that bore is the same between 25/26/30. The rods are my concern but I am pretty sure they are interchangeable. Sorry guys

What size (thickness) head gasket is everyone using?

Nice work! What sort of boost is it running? Excuse my ignorance but was it a turbo upgrade or is still running the stock ones?

Nope... Not suited to the valve body.

No sorry, 1700KG total with me in the car. I was just mentioning the fact that a minimum of 200kgs sits in the boot I will go slicks if it is a major issue. I consistently run between 2.2 and 2.4 at the moment, no matter how I try get the car off the line.

THe car weighs 1700kg with me in it ... I run Borg Warner with LSD - 4.11s Auto is the standard 4/5spd RE401A I believe it is, with KEAS full manual valve body, MV auto hi-stall and box was rebuilt by KEAS with upgraded everything Yeah, I thought it might be a stall issue also, but believe maybe its just the weight. When I ran my best time, it was a 12.6 @ 113mph with 2.3 60 foot... on street tyres so was a little stiff on traction but not too bad as it has about 200kgs of gear in the boot. Was hoping the 3Lt would make a huge improvement

Hey guys, I am currently running a built RB25 with GT3082R (.82r), standard head, all supporting mods and making roughly 360rwhp @ 18psi thrugh a KEAS built auto with 4200rpm stall. A lot of people tell me the reason the power is so low is because of the auto, which I assume is true. Was planning on selling the engine, however someone has suggested I go the 30 bottom end. I dont want to go spending money without asking a few questions. Really, my question is whether there is a noticeable difference with torque going from the RB30 to the 25. Down at the drags, I struggle to get a 60 foot below 2.4 seconds even with the big stall (I still only see around 7psi if that on the line). I am hoping going to the larger capacity I might see a little more boost and RPM a little higher... Also, is there much to gain HP wise? Cheers, Matt.

Awesome stuff mate, you must be stoked! Have been anxiously awaiting to see final dyno figures. Good work!

Run it at 18psi I had a series 1 25 turbo and ran it at 18psi for about 8 months and never had an issue with it. Even when I pulled the motor out I had a look at the turbo and it seemed happy. But, if you cant afford to fix it if it does break, then run 12psi. Be smart about it

Hey, Chasing after a 6 Boost manifold. Need it yesterday RB25 T3 Ceramic Coated Have cash waiting, please let me know! Thank you, Matt

Probably not the best to purchase then considering you will still need money for cooler piping, exhaust and wastegate. Sorry bud! Matt.

Not really bolt on mate. It would be best to purchase the manifold and external gate aswell... that way you would only need an exhaust and intercooler piping. But I would suggest fuel pump + possibly injectors and FMIC (might get away with using stock injectors) if you wanted to chase big HP.

Search function works well! Please delete.