DennisRB30

25t, so was it worth the effort and money? How much did it all add up to? A list of what was done vs cost would be great. Do you have any 400m times or dyno charts from before the conversion, a before and after comparison would be good. Does it still rev strongly to 7000rpm? Have you driven it enough to notice the fuel consumption?

25t, just to re-cap. You have a R33 with a VVT RB25DET, you changed the bottom end to a stock RB30 without changing any other support systems... Correct? How does it run, other than the stutter? Does boost come on much faster? Does it feel a lot more torquey? You could adjust the base timeing for more advance becuase the CR has droped a fair bit, and like joel said, you could run a heap more boost becuse of the lower CR, but the turbo will not like it at all.

I got the second one today

Hey, Sydneykid do you work for symex?

I recon it would fit with not to much effort.

Do you stall it up by holding your foot on the brake while puting your foot down on the accelerometer? Do that until the wheels just start to spin gentaly. When the lights go green, plant it and take the foot of the brake simultaniously. It takes a while to get it right, just like in a manual (but easier to do consistantly). To much stall can create to much wheel spin, not enough can bog down. You will launch INSTANLY by using this meathod. No 1 second bog down. You know when you have done it exactly right because you will slightly wheelspin for about 3-4 metres (not enough to get smoke)

Putting the boost up won't make you slower off the line, but I hear what your saying. If you make bad decisions when doing mods, they can have a negative effect to performance. Filter, zorst and boost mods should not have any negative effect on off the line performance, other than maybe excessive wheelspin

What i'm saying is you should be able to flog excels off the line as well. As as example... Excel pulls up at the lights, revs his sewing machine engine, you give it a bit of stall just before the wheels start spinning, lights turn green and you go, the excel INSTANTLY dissapears in the distance. My bothers one hammers of the line and it gets 400-450 kms per tank too.

There is something seriously wrong with your car/setup. You should be getting around 400kms per tank and no ****ing hyundai should be able to beat you of the mark LOL.

Good for power, bad for cooling.

Is 8K OK for a standard RB25 bottom end?

I highly reccomend showing the cops what you have under the hood unless there is something under there that will cause you to get a bigger fine and more hassle than a cannery, ie NO2. The cops WILL ream you unless you are a real expert at the law.

They just accuse you of being in a gang or say that you match the discription of a drug dealer.

Base Turbo V8 SL sedan 1253 1294 1338 SL Wagon 1307 1348 1392 Berlina Sedan 1292 1325 1360 Berlina Wagon 1350 1383 1407 Calais 1354 1383 1407 They weight is closer to a R32. 1253 Kg for a base model.

I would just show them becuase not doing so would almost definetly result in a cannery. Back on topic does anyone have anything to add to the following If you get rid of the PCV system your engine will build up harmfull acidic gases which contaminate the oil reducing engine life.

If you deny the cops a look under the hood, they will just find another probably worse way of pinning you, ie cannery.

If you get rid of the PCV system your engine will build up harmfull acidic gases which contaminate the oil reducing engine life.

I seriously doubt that you can bore a RB25 out to 3 litres.

1mm not 0.1mm

yep

My brother has a auto R33GTSt it hammers off the line, we beat a R33 manual with way more mods, we had 4 people in the car too. The passenger of the other 33 was so pissed off he wanted to start a fight (wanker, the 4 of us would have distroyed them, it's people like that give turbo cars a bad name) The good thing is that launches on the street are way easier and more predictable in an auto. However I'm sure a well lauched manual would be faster of the line but it is a lot harder to do. The only thing that has got the jump of the line was a modded WRX. We have been chopped a few times be worked V8 commos and various other nissans, but only after they reeled us in after we hosed them of the line. We beat a manul R32 with the usual mods for about 250-300 meters untill it flew past. Another thing that sucks about the auto (besides robbing power) is that it's almost impossible to change gears at or near redline becuase when you knock it up a gear it takes a while to respond, resulting in a hit of the rev limmiter. If you let the auto change do its thing, it doesn't jump back a gear when you want it to and it short changes by 500-700 rpm. We will be sure to take it to Willowbank after we have done a few more mods. We are hoping for low-mid 14's, which I don't think is unrealistic.

From what I have heard from people that have put RB20s into VLs (3.45:1 diff gears) and R31s (3.7-3.9) Changing diff gears is a must for decent drivability. It will be a real slug of the line with 3.45 diff gears. 4.11s are the go.

By far the most common CR seen in turbo engines is 8.5:1, so I doubt 8.3 is going to be to low. RB20 SR20 RB26 all have 8.5:1, I would think of the slighty lower CR to be a bit of extra protection against detonation. The RB30ET has a CR of 7.8:1 now thats low, and it was deemed fine for a production engine.

Yeh thats why I got 2, one for my brothers 33 and one for my 31.

Sorry for the mix up Zahos and Sydney kid. Anyway, the only ones I could find that matched any thing I was recommended were the same as BCPR5E (forgot the actual part number) but with a Y in the part number and are gapped to 1.1 mm instead of .8 The Y stands for a grooved electrode so I thought it wouldn't hurt (probably just a gymmick though). I gapped them to .9 and put them in. I found out what a prick it is to change plugs on a RB25DET!! I think the plugs that were in there were the platimum ones, the part number started with a P and the electrode tapered to a small point unlike a usual plug. They looked to be in perfect condition but were gapped to 1.1 which was probably causing the misfire not the plug itself. I was tempted to gap them down a bit and put them back, but I put the new ones in anyway because they were there. I will post the part number of the plugs that came out and the plugs that I got when I have a look later on this week. We haven't has a chance to drive it yet since we are having a few probs with the stereo installation. But once the dash is back on, I will post the results of the new plugs. Hopefully the hesitation will be gone.