DennisRB30

http://board.performanceforums.com/forums/...hlight=Fuelstar

They are a crock. Put then in the same basket as Hiclone and the Turbo exhaust tip vortex generator. Do a google search. I saw a few tests done by independent researchers that concluded they done nothing to improve power octane or economy. Zoom eve tested on ages ago and came to the same conclusion.

It also less stress on the "real" drag cars when they have to start a burnout with massive slicks. Stops them launching instead of spinning the wheels.

There are 2 different restrictors that I’m talking about. I even used caps lock to illustrate the point. Is there a particular part of my post you do not agree with? I’m not sure you followed what I was trying to say. I would be glad to be corrected as long as you give detail as to HOW you think things work. I went out of my way to try and explain the process, you basically just said doing A will affect B because it just does. I’m not trying to have a go at you. It’s just that some things you said didn’t seem make sense. At the end of the day the actuator spring is the ONLY thing that controls boost. Solenoids and bleed valves are just a way of tricking the actuator by reducing the pressure value it receives.

Scenario 1. Having restrictors in the WASTEGATE line without any type of wastegate bleed will not change the amount of PSI the wastegate gets. However it will increase the TIME it takes for the PSI to build up in the wastegate line after the restrictor. This effect will reduce creep, and if the volume of air in the lines after the restrictor is too big, it might cause spikes. Eg, if you set the boost to 10psi, the pressure in the line before the restrictor (actual boost pressure) might reach 13psi but the actuator might only see 10psi because the pressure in the line has not had time to equalise yet because of the restrictor. But if the system is designed right no spikes will occur and the system becomes beneficial by keeping the wastegate closed for longer before the set boost is reached Scenario 2. When there is some sort of wastegate bleed, eg bleed valve or solenoid the restrictor becomes a bottleneck, which allows the pressure behind it to decrease below that of the nominal boost pressure. The bleed valve allows air to escape, and the pressure is reduced because of this. Without the wastegate line restriction the bleed valve would have to bleed off an overly large volume of air to make a reduction in pressure. That is why removing the restrictor in the SOLENOID line may* increase boost, because it might then be able to bleed off enough air in the wastegate line to reduce the pressure below that of nominal boost pressure. The moral is leave the WASTEGATE line restrictor in! Does this make sense?

I have not looked to see where this restrictor is or how it would work with the solenoid. If it’s in the BOOST SOLENOID LINE, it will not be restricting any flow to the wastegate, on the contrary, it will allow the pressure to back up faster in the wastgate line dulling boost response. Removing it might allow more air to be bled away from the wastegate line in the same way as a bleed valve, thus increasing boost. I have not inspected it or tried removing it but at least the theory makes sense, unlike removing the restrictor marked by red in the wastegate line.

Giz01 thanks for setting it straight. I was unaware of a restrictor in the solenoid line. A boost increase by removing it makes total sense (as opposed to removing the restrictor marked by red in the wastgate line as indicated by others in this thread). It would have the same effect as opening a bleed valve to release pressure from the wastegate line. Just make sure you DON’T remove the restrictor in the wastegate line as well, otherwise it might not work for the same reasons a bleed valve might not work.

Threads like this are the reason I am very sceptical when taking advice from net forums. Fortunately, it’s sometimes quite easy to tell when a someone has no clue what their on about. I thought about the mechanics of it, and came to the conclusion that removing it could only let the wastegate actuator diaphragm receive a higher boost level under variations in boost, due to an unrestricted boost signal from the intake. Since its boost pressure that activates the wastgate, a higher boost reading at the actuator would cause the wastgate to open faster therefore dulling boost response and possibly even reducing boost* (*depending on the function of the factory boost solenoid, which I’m not entirely sure of it’s function). At best, removing it could only reduce boost response whilst still leaving max boost as the factory intended it. Well, theorising is just that, so I tried it for myself. Not to my surprise taking out the restrictor done absolutely NOTHING to increase boost. I urge any sceptics to try it for themselves. Remember if you do anything else other than remove it (eg dial in cams), your results will mean nothing. To further the test I replaced the boost solenoid with a bleed valve with the restrictor not in place. The bleed valve did not function properly because there was too much airflow in the hose. This resulted in the bleed valve not being able to bleed off enough air to reduce the boost signal. I put the restrictor back in which reduced the potential air flow in the wastegate line, therefore allowing the bleed valve to bleed enough air to reduce the boost signal. (the less boost signal the actuator gets the more boost your turbo will make) The valve I used was a proper industrial bleed valve used for pneumatic systems. (The wastegate actuator system is nothing more than a simple pneumatic system). I have never recommended anyone to waste money on a $100+ “specialised” bleed valve for increasing boost, but I suspect that some of them might have a restriction in them on the intake side therefore negating the need for an extra restrictor. Anyway, the restriction on the wastegate line plays an important role in INCREASING the boost and adds sensitivity to the boost controler. BTW there is no spiking evident at all. Maybe spikes only occur when there is no restriction in the line to limit the air flow in the wastegate line?

I have just built a Jaycar Turbo timer. I am confident about everything besides the ignition hookup. Which wire is the one I should connect the timed ignition switch up to. Is it best to find in the dash or can it be hooked straight up to the ECU, it’s a R33. I need the positive 12V for the ignition. Cheers.

What's going on with the R31 forums atm. I have not been there since the board closed.

OK. What is a flow control valve and how does it opperate?

Na, just tight arses What does the sonenoid do anyway? Can't it be left on, or would the system not work with a bleed valve?

Are 33 better than 32 callipers?

Cool, Thanks. All I need now is the info on the callipers, eg which ones are the biggest, which ones are 4 spot etc. Cheers

He got it from a mates mate that had a caryard that was going broke.

What is the difference in size between R33 and R32 front callipers and rotors, and are the NA versions equipped with smaller brakes. A mate want’s some 4 spot callipers for his Cobra replica to replace the VL turbo brakes that are on it ATM. Any info on callipers and rotor sizes for the different skylines would be great. They do not have to bolt on directly as new brackets can be made. Cheers :burnout:

Too true. They look like a Camry I recon the cops would be less inclined to hassel a 4 door too. The 2 door must have a tiny boot if the 4 door one is bigger.

Thanks, I will check those sites out.

Nice work Rev210, Do you think an auto 4 door could do a high 13 with your mods?

Does anyone know where I could get a second hand exhaust for a R33 GTSt around Brisbane? I have tried Alljap at Virginia with no success. I read in Zoom mag that imported second hand ones can be picked for good prices. Cheers

That’s the info I was after. Thanks.

This is just the thread I was after. I just finished typing a new thread about it but I found this thread before I submitted it. Anyways, I assume the solenoid you speak of it the one that connects to the wastegate actuator hose via a T piece, and has another hose that connects to the intake prior to the turbo. To summarise, is this correct procedure to install a bleed valve? Disconnect the solenoid hoses and plug the one up that connects back up to the intake prior to the turbo. The bleed valve can then be installed where the T piece for the solenoid was. A restrictor should then be placed in the line for correct operation of the bleed valve. Sound right? Also, is the restrictor best placed on the wastegate side or cooler pipe side of the bleed valve? Cheers

Hi. Does anyone know what the differences are between a R33 GTSt 4 door and 2 door (besides the obvious addition of 2 extra doors ) weight etc. My brother has picked up a nice 4 door auto for only 11k (barstard ) Would an exhaust from a 2 door fit on a 4 door. If not, could it be easily modified to fit. I ask because whole exhausts are commonly available from import yards for reasonable prices, but I recon I would be hard to find one for a 4 door. I’m not sure about differences in wheelbase etc between the two. Cheers