DennisRB30

This weekend I drove to Evens Head (south of Byron Bay and Balina). I went via Springbrook (which adds about 60km of steep curvy slow mountain roads) and I drove pretty slowly for ages looking for dodgy camping sites, with the odd bit of sideways rally driving. I got 10.1L/100km over the 500km trip. Car is a R31 which has an auto 2JZGTE in it

The revs drop when the torque converter locks up. When driving an auto you should try and notice when the converter locks unlocks and attempt to drive with the converter locked as often as possible, this will lead to very good economy.

I have seen your car before. Nice work. Race ya? It would be sweet to actually be beaten by a R33 for once

One reason for no burnout or quater mile runs. Open center diff Need to get that sorted.

There are pics of the gearbox Xmember in my first post. The engine X member is stock and unmodified. I just used R31 rubber mounts and made custom brackets to join it all up. I have often thought of how poorly the RB25 is matched to such a heavy car as the Stagea and how the 2J would be much more suited, the RB26 would fair better than the 25, but the 2JZ would work MUCH better at moving such a heavy car. I think you will find it goes harder without having to ring the engines neck, and you will probably get better fuel economy too. How about selling the RB26 for its overinflated price and fitting a 2JZ into both cars?

Someone said that the V8 R33 would have crap handling. You are wrong. The all alloy LS1 weighs f**k all. I bet there would be less weight over the front wheels than a stock R33 GTSt. I don't think the 2JZ would weigh much for than a RB25, you have a little bit more block hight and the weight of an extra turbo. My R31 weighs in at 1380 with a towbar and some other bits and pieces and half a tank of fuel.

The auto 2JZ halfcut cost me $3500, and the same importer wanted $4500-5000K for a manal RB25, I think the auto 25 was around $3500, but having been in a auto R33 with a few mods, there was no way I was spending that much money to have the car struggle to get 14's. My broher was the owner of the said auto 33, he then got an auto 1JZ soarer, which dispite weighing 200kg more than the 33 was much faster even without an LSD. He recorded a 13.6 with no traction with FMIC and exhaust. This led me to the conclusion that 12's would be a walk in the park in a R31 for 1JZ, but then I decided to go a 2JZ for the hell of it. The 1JZ costs only 2K with auto and will easily do 12's in a r33, and probably do 11's in a silvia or R32. There is no way I would fit a RB25 into any car when the 1JZ is so cheap. (not saying the 25 is shit, just saying that it is overpriced) So guys, don't overlook the 1JZ either. Nissan purists don't like it, but IMO, nissan makes the better cars, toyota makes the better engines, why not join both to have the ultimate? My fav car would be a R34 with a 2JZ in it. Other than the $75 brake booster, nothing cost more than an RB25 conversion would have. But you must remember I had to make all the mounts etc myself. I just sat the engine where I wanted it, then made some dummy tempates for the mounts out of tinplate the cut them out of steel and welded them up. When I say it was cheap, its only becuase I don't the work myself. If you payed someone to do all the extra work the costs would add up. If I already hada RB25 and it blew up, I would just fit a RB30 bottom end.

As my project progressed I met quite few people that had used the Aristo conversion in all sorts of cars, various old supras, celicas, VK and VL commos, cressidas, silvias, and an R32. There are shitloads of them getting around, one thing they have in common is they all go damn hard! It is cheapest to just keep the auto box (which is quite strong) and as the power of the engine is fairly high, you will get faster 400m times with it anyway, which is all I am after. I am hoping for 12's on my first outing and 11's with a few more tweaks here and there.

Best way would be to fit a stock standard 1JZ and add the correct turbo (it will do 300rwkw) Or make a RB30DET, either way its gonna cost you around 10K.

Large injectors don't work as well as small injectors l when injecting small amounts of fuel. IE in cruise and idle conditions, that is why you get worse economy with them. Its pretty simple really.

Thanks guys I highly recommend this cheap conversion for ANY car including silvias and later model skylines The bang for buck is awesome. And you end up with (arguably) the most bullet proof Jap engine incase you want more power. Insanity is only a big single turbo conversion away. I'm quite happy with the current power level though and I don't want to spend much more on the car as its just a budget project and daily diver. It gets under 10L/100km fuel consumption too

This thing looks like a grandmas car. It is a local ser3 R31 GXE white with 2 tone grey and hub caps (you can see the hub caps in the first pic) and is not lowered yet. And it has stock brakes Really need to do something about that

I have a dyno sheet, but its paper not ones and zeros and I don't have a scanner. 323rwhp through an auto is pretty good for near stock everything I reckon. It made that at a supra dyno day, there was a GTR that went on the dyno 2 cars before me and got 293rwhp, so 30rwhp more than an RB26 through the auto is a pretty good figure I reckon. I must admit I have no idea what mods it had, but from what I could tell it had at least a large exhaust.

Gday. Just wanted to share some pics of my car. Some of you may have seen it on other forums. I didn't want to pay the premium price for the RB25 so I done the following to save money. All work done by me with the odd help of mates in my shed besides the driveshaft and a bit of alloy welding for the intercooler brackets. Without much tweaking it has made 323rwhp (241rwkw) through the stock Aristo auto with a stock ECU at 16psi. Only power mods are my custom exhaust, FMIC and home made boost cut defender. I ran the exhaust under the sump and fitted a smaller diameter but twin diaphragm brake booster from a Mitsubishi to clear the rear turbo. I was told this would never work with the stock turbos. I made a custom 3" Y dump to replace the shitty cast item. This was needed to clear the steering shaft. I also ported the wastegate becuase the 2JZ has overboosting probs if you fit a big exhaust with the shitty cast Y dump removed. Cheers

Me no give fark for games. PM sent.

I am after an Xbox, prefer chipped. I give no fark for games. I just want it as a media interface from my PC to my home entertainment system for easy viewing of downloaded movies etc. Cheers.

Well it may not be as good as a CRO, but you would have to agree that its good enough to tell if its a square wave or not going by my findings. I dont have a CRO.

I think it is a square wave. Reason I say this is becuase I tapped into the wire at the dash cluster and hooked a multimeter up on DC. If I roll the car along very slowly I can see the voltage go from 0V to 6V and back again. The faster the car goes the faster it goes from 0V to 8V. Here are some mesurements at the dash cluster. I took them with the speedo connected, so I'm not sure if that affects the readings.

I have a R31 and am wondering what type of signal normaly comes from the speed sensor on the trans? Is it a square wave or a sine wave? I am trying to get my speedo to work with my auto 2JZ trans speed sensor.

Anyone?

I just done some looking around and I was mistaking about how the banjo fitting might hook up. Apparently the banjo fitting comes out at a 45 degree angle anyway (which would probably give me enough room to join the fuel line). So if I can find one I should probably be right. This is just a pic I found from a google immage search. I take it that this is exaclty what my pump should look like with the proper banjo fitting? Are the pictured pumps ready to be connected or does something else need to screw on above the banjo fitting? Just a nut to hold the banjo fitting down?

Yeah thanks. The R31 setup is totally different to that. I can make the pump fit in the bracket and then fit it back into the tank OK, the prob is that with the fittings on top of the pump the will be no room to join the fuel lines on. Its distance between the bottom and top of the tank that is to small. What fitting did you end up using and where did you get it?

Cheers. gtrken says that they wont fit in a R31, but they will fit in a 32 33 etc. The fuel tank set-up must be different in an R31. I still reckon I can make it fit though. Did you have much trouble getting that non return fitting of the pump? Is seems bloody tight. The reason I want to take it off is because its makes the pump to long to fit in my bracket.

Thanks heaps mate. I take it you have an R31? Please send pics to [email protected] What did you do about the filter mesh?

How much are the 34 sedans worth?