WARLORD

the funny thing is i started this post to see if someone had a dyno too see the power gains in a a/m manifold and still nothing ...lost of people guessing but no proof yet.i hope someone can show me what gains they got in hp/kw so i too can spend my money on one.

thanks. as for temps oil sits at about 70-80 de water sits at 68-72 and i run the car at the drags with 102 octan at the end of a run temp is oil 85 water 73

i have spoken to hpi japan and they said that the manifold is not made for a 3037 and that it would crack over time . thats why i never got one and am still looking for something good in a low mount but it looks like there is nothing.

what did you get done and price please

same here if there is more people will the price go down it looks like 9 item mite be bought try for ten for a better deal can he make this r33 RB25DET Stock location, low mount, internal gate 3037hks pro s turbo

you are good.

only 7300rpm i hit 8000rpm every day at least 10 times,

can you move the afm to the intake side just be for the throttle body so ive got more room ......i think i read somewhere that some jap shops do this but i can't find the web site any more.

who's doing your head.

thanks guys

well thats shit i was thinking of may be a top mount for my 3037 pro s

nar not yet still collecting info ive blown a clutch since this post started and still saving cash, im at 3k now and still need more i want a exhaust manifold,larger intercooler,throttle body as well so next year is looking good. plus ive got a baby on the way so ill have 2 under 2 next year so it will be the last mod ((yer right))

one on ebay now

dyno update next steps larger intercooler 94mm 3"pipe work change air intake again 80mm throtle body get the head ported,larger valves by 0.5mm exhaust manifold may be top mount with same turbo re-paint cam covers and put better fittings re-locate catch can fiberglass boot and bonnet

now at 309 kw

here are my dynos from two diffrent shops. the rpm is 8000

listen to what joey is talking about .....

i forgot to mention that i also was told that when the bonnet is down and on the street that the air flow meter and power fc will make it a bit richer is this true.

i was having a look at my dyno from crd today and noticed that my a/f ratio sits at 12.5 and at the last box it dips to 12 ,now is this to lean or is it ok, the engine has forged pistons ,rods,race bearings apr head studs. now ive read that it could be unsafe in a stock engine so how about a forged one?? if i run 102 race fuel at the drags will this keep it safer ? knock is at 16-25 and if i hit the limiter a 65 will come up. your opinions would be nice if there is someone in the know about a/F ratios and knows rb engines really well it would be nice to hear from them. thanks .

are the shocks leaking if not im interested. how old arethe springs & shocks whats the ride height like? i am in sydney and will drive up

i had mine at crd with no straps made 304kw atw ,then i went to a dyno day about 3 weeks ago and the car was straped down and made 309kw atw..... the only thing that was diffrent was the knock level was higher when straped and no knock on the street or crd dyno.

i found this today but im not sure what the note means this is what it said,(combine with std Orifice use For RB25&20, ONLY solid type is available (cannot used on lash type) can some one translate.

and so you should be !!!

i am turned off with what ive read ,i to was going to get one from j/j but no way ive spent too much to buy crap now ,thanks for starting this topic .plus my mate has gone thru 2 j/j radiators now so i think its not a good investment to buy some things from there. my opinion !!

same ,slim or fat