warps

Looks like I'll save my money then. Haven't played GT5 for over 6 months now, been getting back into PC simracing again. How anyone can suggest that the GT games are in any way a simulation is beyond me. Arcade games at the very best. Bling does not an accurate simulator make.

Sounds like a Monty Python reference Farken wont let me link or embed videos (can't even copy / paste URLS in here) farken Look up 1967 Formula 1 German Grand Prix (2 of 4) on youtube - by thash1127. Fast forward to 0.59 and watch the next 5 sec. As they round the second right hander, you can recognise the rise just behind the 2 cars in the photo above. I'm convinced it's Brunnchen at the Nurburgring (recognised it from my hundreds of hours driving the 1967 track in GPL)

Has to be the ring, surely (can't remember the name of the corner) Edit: Brunnchen I think?

Time for a L98 Frankenbuild then

What's the swept volume got to do with it? Yes I'm fully aware that it's a 3.9 litre running at 1/3 crank speed - nothing new there. Longevity? all engines die if not treated right. Rotaries can and will last a long time if built and treated correctly. Sound? Dam - you got me there There's also the dreadful specific fuel consumption of the rotary, but that doesn't matter to enthusiasts, does it?

Yes, they do weigh more, hence make better anchors. Pity the 13B is a far superior engine in every way that matters, though.

You're right Daniel, there are lots of dickheads on this site. Don't let them put you off, though, as there are genuine people who are willing to help. If all else fails take them to the wasteland and bitch slap them silly. Also good for lulz.

Well there's something I didn't know, Alex Very quick google on QLD stat warranty shows this: So by that, regardless of age the car is covered for 1 month or 1000km. Note if you've brought these issues to the attention of the seller within this time, and the time / km expire after that point, I believe you are still covered by the stat warranty. Note there are some exclusions where the stat warranty doesn't apply (check the website here) but in that case they need to clearly advise you that the car is sold without stat warranty. Edit: reading that website, the stat warranty (class B) doesn't cover air conditioning. However, if he advertised it with air con, and it isn't even fitted, then this has nothing to do with stat warranty and he needs to bring the car to the condition stated in his ad.

All used cars bought from a dealer carry a 3 month statutory warranty. They can't get out of that - it's a legal obligation. This means they have to fix these issues free of charge (although I'm not 100% certain whether that extends to minor oil leaks and weeps) As for the A/C - he's pushing his luck with that one. You should def get in touch with consumer affairs, and get him shut down. Dodgy kents like that should all be shot. He's obviously been taking you for a ride.

Car will have to comply with the emissions regs in place when the car was built, or when the engine was built, whichever is later. Importing the car is a different kettle of fish - I'm not too sure what the regs on importing modified vehicles currently are (even if it's a personal import). However, if you plan on doing an engine swap, then it will have to be engineered, in which case it needs to comply with the emissions applicable to the engine.

I suggest you talk to a few IPRA guys about this. Even the 2L turbo boys are struggling to find drivelines to take the massive torque due to the limited revs. The 2.6 will exacerbate this even further - huge torque at low revs, and limited to the same power as the evorexes. You'll still have fun out there, but I don't think it will be at all competitive.

Good. Happy to forget 2013

You get to keep your tools in your bedroom? Lucky

That's looking good, Dan. Just ask yourself this: Is it better than what you had before? If yes then win. Remember, regardless how big it is, it'll never be big enough. Just accept this fact of life and you'll enjoy it much more. You just get to be more creative with storage ideas. You'll get plenty of years joy out of it

I don't know if the later models (140kW) have fixed that issue or whether it's just the auto, but my Ti doesn't suffer from the poor low end torque and tows heaps better than my previous(125kW) 6 speed

Hey leave the guy alone. He's got a welder, compressor, rattle gun, torque wrench, compression tester and jump pack. It's a fully kitted race fab / workshop. Having made that dig, there are a lot of jobs you can do yourself with decent tools and a bit of nous (although some people should never be let within 10m of a spanner). Most important thing is to know (and acknowledge) your limits.

M1's great. Long straights 4 lanes and no cops or speed cameras - ever.

It does sound like an earthing problem. Could be one of the internal earths or in the engine bay - they won't often show up with a multimeter - they'll only show up a fault with load on. Maybe systematically check all of the main earths (in the engine bay) and try some of the internal ones as well.

Yeh ours has fallen over many times. At least the higher grade portable ones are easier to lower so can store it in the lowered position and raise it when being used. We never park the cars in the driveway so unlikely to damage anything (except a few bushes) if it does fall over.

Looking to get a replacement BB hoop / back board for the young fella. He's been playing club for 5 seasons now (summer and winter comp) and loves the sport - is starting to show some ability but needs to be able to practice at home. We've had a fairly cheap portable system for the last few years which was pretty crappy. The pole was very flexible, and the back board gave no resistance, so it was hard to simulate the real thing. Are any of the adjustable portable (sub $1000) systems much good, or do they all suffer from the same flaccid construction? I'm happy to spend up to $1k if we can get something stable, robust and that will last a few years. (He's gone through 2 of the cheaper ones now, lasting less than 2 years each). We went to Rebel sport to look at the Spalding Platinum (can get it for $549 at some places) but they didn't have one on display to check out the quality. I've heard that the Spalding Beast is much more solid, but the cheapest I could find was $1200, which is getting up there in cost. Any other recommendations, or should I just cement a pole into the driveway (obviously not the preferred option)

Because Finn

Quoted for truth. Look at a lot of "track car" build threads anywhere on the internet and it's astounding the amount of hard core race gear people are putting into their 3 - weekends - a - year track day specials, when standard or off the shelf upgrades will often suffice As far as cheap running costs go - totally agree there, too. The Civic may not be nearly as quick as a turbo Skyline or Clubman (on tarmac, anyway - on gravel it holds its own against anything 2WD) the reliability and low running costs mean I can enjoy it whenever time permits. No point spending your entire budget on building the car and not being able to afford to run it.

didn't back it in Wasn't trying hard enough

Been doing it for the last 10 years (in Skylines and WRX's). Easy - just keep it under the speed limit and don't drive like a dick.

SOLD!!