coupe72001

Yes... for now. While the paint was drying I chopped up an early abortion of a model to see how I'd go swinging the doors, having never tried before. Ugly as sin, but the basic principles are there, i.e. it opens and closes.

Hi, No, it's long gone regrettably. Now it's a C210 and a 260C.

Hi all, I recently spotted these on ebay: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Coilovers-2-51mm-2-Inch-Datsun-Toyota-Honda-1600-200b-Stanza-240z-/280884957285?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item41660c5065#ht_500wt_1360 I have long flirted with the idea of getting coilovers for my C210, as I am struggling to find springs for the rear that aren't either factory height, or way too low. The car is very close to riding on the bump-stops at present at the rear. I'd really like to be able to adjust the ride height up by an inch or two. I know that many have chosen the S13 coilover option, but this strikes me as very complex to make them fit at the front, and would provide me with a brake upgrade that I don't need/can't afford. The car pulls up like a champ at the moment with Hilux brakes up front, and 280zx disks rear. I gather that 8kg spring rate front and rear is probably a little OTT for a tough streeter, but the seller allows you to select your own spring rate. In short, does anyone want to suggest why purchasing two sets of these would/wouldn't be a good idea, and have suggestions for spring rates?

Better results this time with masking, polishing and detail work. Still lots of tidying to do though...

Good luck. Doesn't look like it'll need much; maybe some bushes etc if they are still the original ones.

Ebay search Aoshima Skyline, Fujimi Skyline and Tamiya skyline. That should get you started!

Getting a RWC will definitely add value to the car. At a guess this is one of the rare examples where the money you invest in the RWC will be more than recovered in the sale price. Have a mechanic do a pre RWC inspection and give you a list - if there are any, of the things that need to be fixed before he signs the certificate. A bit of polish and Amour All and that engine bay would look a million dollars, too.

That man's models are absolutely amazing - shame my Japanese isn't up to scratch. I take it that he is sculpting all of his engines and bodykits etc out of styrene and putty?

I watched a youtube video on a guy who cuts his doors and bonnets open with a scalpel and builds his own hinges. It's pretty tempting... but I might attempt it on an old botched model first, so if it all goes wrong it's no big loss. Getting working lights on would be unreal. I've got a DISM diecast with working lights, and it looks very cool.

Trying to get some finer details onto the model this time around. Have decided to go for tan/chocolate C210 interior rather than black, so it a bit easier to see what's happening. Maybe that isn't the smartest idea though, seeing I have the hands of an hyperactive, alcoholic, coffee addict.

Also blown head is nothing to sort out. Just be sure it really is the head, and not a pin hole in your timing cover/welsh plug behind timing cover etc. An clean unbroken head gasket will be a bit of a giveaway that there is something else afoot dumping water in your oil.

Score! That'll clean up a treat Socrates. Can't go past white on black. Have you thought about getting some stripes on the bonnet

I used to spray holding the interior of the model; but managed to get a thumb print on the sill every time I went to put the damn thing down! If you look carefully you'll see the spray booth is actually an old Coopers slab. Very useful to have a range beer products on hand for a build like this!

Ill start things off then... Model, tools, paint, spares, and a high-end jig for spraying...

Ok, watch that space!

Anyone in Vic want to split a rear end with me? (Wow, does that sound wrong.) Steve is, reasonably enough, hoping to sell whole rear end as an assembly, and I really only want the brakes and possibly half shafts. Anyone keen for the diff etc?

Sure thing - just a thread is fine. I'm just very prone to laziness unless feeling competitive is all!

I reckon a model thread would be sticky-worthy. Some past and future efforts would flesh it out nicely.

Alright, it's on! I'd pitch my abilities at more than zero, but far less than average.

Should we throw down the model builders challenge? 60 days to buy, build and paint a classic skyline. The coolest-looking model selected by forum member vote, all bragging rights to the winner.

I did the Fujimi tricked 240k sedan, it was an early attempt at model building and painting and I made a horrible mess of it. Very cool-looking model until I touched it though. There's a model building thread on the Japanese Nostalgic car forum. Those guys are freaks how good they can get a plastic model to look. Freaks, I tell you! They can get the paint and chrome looking better than on my actual car. (S'pose that's not a huge achievement actually.)

C'mon Jason, don't show me that - I only just finished the Aoshima C210 in standard trim! *checks bank balance anyway*

You can get a watchdog if you are really worried. A mate's running one his on his old Range Rover because data taken from the gauges on it is pretty much meaningless at this stage. http://www.sig.itel.net/ It'll alarm if your water temp reaches your set-point too.

I have a sinking feeling Honda pics are on my old digi camera that I dropped then hurled into the bin without pulling the memory card... like a spaz. I may have some photos I can scan though - I'll see what I can dig up. There's a decent pic of the quad set up on the wikipedia page though for the meanwhile. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Honda1300Coupe9Engine.jpg

My Honda 1300 Coupe 9 ran quad Keihins; they went and sounded great. Obviously, they were on a 1300cc engine though, so no idea how they'll work out on an FJ. You'll score a million points for interesting if you do an NA FJ in my book.