coupe72001

You should ask him the same question 40 times about the car with slightly different wording. He'll give you the car for $8,000 to avoid any further discussion.

130 at the rear is a good 190 at the fly - sounds about right. I'm getting about that with L28, extractors, electronic distributor, flat tops, mild cam and triple 40mm Dell'Ortos... hybridz.org has plenty of penis size comparison chat for L engines if you want to see what others are getting from their cars.

Prices have really climbed in the last 5 years as so many 240k's have gone to scrap metal or sent to the middle east. The eBay seller is looking for $12,000, and will probably get it!

Not a super collectable model, but if it's as clean as, genuine milage, offered with RWC and some rego, you should get plenty of interest at $3000 from people looking for a cool daily driver. At 50,000ks the thing should just about be pristine.

You're in the classics section tiger, try another section of the forum.

All good. Bargain for the crank, but then I'd still have to buy all the bits to finish the 3.1 build. Good luck to you sir! BTW - I didn't realise that Ash had inflicted that name/pic on you - that's hilarious!

If you include shipping from Vic etc, with a $2500 budget that doesn't leave a lot of car! You really get punished for shipping non-drivers, as you need a flatbed rather than a car carrier. Ceva logistics were the best I dealt with from memory.

5 years back $2,500 would have bought a mint 240k. Scarcity + demand = bummer.

Sparkles? Guess I should have just called the number.

How 'bout you follow Basti's awesome lead and just contribute to some threads for a bit. I recommend the sideboob vs underboob poll, the Naw why so cute thread, or go all out and see if you can't resurrect the 'mind the gap thread.' You'll go from annoying question kid to highly esteemed member of the wasteland community. Plausibly.

I didn't get a reply... anyone else?

For that money there are some lovely 240/260C's on ebay at the moment well within budget. 240ks are going for crazy money - far more than $2,500 for a project. C210/c211 are hard to find, but not crazily priced if you get lucky. I don't know about the modern stuff you mention.

Karlos, sorry.

Hey Carlos. Lucky for you the engine is the least rare part on the C210, being common to a bunch of other models; 240c, 240z, 240k, MR30... Near all the bolt on parts are interchangeable with the L26 and the L28, and a complete L26/L28 will bolt into your car with a few small tweaks. You might find the cheapest option is to pull a complete running engine from a wreck. Otherwise, you'll likely end up with second hand engine and engine parts from ebay/wreckers/forums, but parts to reco said engine/bits are still available through Bursons/Repco/ebay etc. I'm pretty sure complete reco'd carbys are still available on ebay too. Twin SU's will make a big difference to power, especially when combined with an electronic distributor and extractors plus exhaust, but tuning/rebuilding them can be fairly expensive initially. Ill have a look to see if I have a spare fan shroud. Cheers, Drew

For the love of god Soc's have a look if nothing else. You might find grill, eyebrows, moulded trim, lenses, half shafts ... Even if the panels are rubbish after all it's hard to come across a C210 cache on the cheap these days!

What a crack up. Totally abused and striped out paddock hack, all panels straight and rust-free. WTF?

Hi, Sorry for the late reply. The electronic ignition does not run with a ballast resistor. You need to remove it (and join the wires from each end). Wiring should look like the diagram in this link: http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10299&p=103772&hilit=wiring+black+box#p103772 Look closely at your ignition module, you'll see: B for battery C for coil I don't know what exactly has gone wrong, but depending on where you have lost spark, you may have fried the ignition module (little black box on the side of the distributor). They seem to be vulnerable to premature death when there is a wiring issue. There are a tonne of coils to pick from, so long as you don't choose a type designed to be used with a ballast resistor - like the original C210 coil. A typical combination is electronic distributor, Bosch GT40 coil (not GT 40 R) and delete ballast resistor. I can supply some pics if need be.

They came with my Aoshima C210 coupe. Close inspection reveals that they aren't actually Nissan wheels, but read Hart Racing. I've got a set in chrome I can send you if you want to PM me your address.

Im at [email protected]. Any details about the history/work/checks done to the crank would be a bonus. Cheers, Drew

Couple of questions: standard bearing sizes or has it been machined? Tested for straightness? Where'd it come from? Pics if possible would be great. Cheers, Drew

Hey Steve, thanks to you (and you Dad for helping out) for the brakes - very happy.

I don't think you need the whole pedal box for a manual conversion. I just exchanged the brake pedal and hung a new clutch pedal off the auto pedal box when I did it. With any luck the R30 clutch pedal is the same.

You know that Vic Roads has dramatically reduced the requirements for what constitutes a roadworthy windscreen? Now a windscreen is only unroadworthy if it has a star +16mm in the area covered by the wipers, a crack +150mm covered by the wipers or is so generally badly damaged, scratched or discoloured you can't see out of it. http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/NR/rdonlyres/7A14DDDC-3DF3-4ADD-9821-B8C7816777A3/0/VSI26web.pdf Most mechanics ignore the Vicroads requirements and still pick the windscreen over damage outside the area covered by the wipers, or insignificant marks that do not impair the visibility of the road. This is very irritating. Good luck with your sale at any rate.

The first Skyline was made by Prince in the 50's, then by Nissan, who purchased Prince in the 60's. Search for Skyline and Cedric in Wikipedia if you want to have a look at the chronology both models. As I said, there were some similarities between Cedric and Skyline in that era, but visually they are quite different.

I'm a little confused, but I think you are asking three separate questions, which I'll address in turn. If I read this correctly the VIN stamped on the firewall of your car features the letter K. This has nothing to do with the 'family' of the car. From memory (I don't have my owners manual in front of me), for the Cedric range the 'K' denotes hardtop, which is what you have. There was a model of Skyline from 72-77, the C110, which was sold in Aust as the Datsun 240K. Maybe this is where the confusion lies, but they are totally separate cars. To the best of my knowledge none of the Cedric family were ever badged as GT cars. Moreover, many Skylines were not badged as GT models either. Australian model Skylines in the 70's were badged as GL, while the same car in Japan was badged as GT. There are many theories about why, but in short these two letters don't denote whether you have a Skyline or not. Finally, you have a car belonging to the Cedric family. Although they ran the virtually same L24 and what I believe to be an interchangeable transmission with the Skyline/Datsun 240z, the differences in the body, interior, suspension, and differential make it quite a different car to drive. They are extremely cool, but a currently a bit of an unloved classic in Australia.