lineskee 33

Haha i dont think i explained myself right. I meant to say it sits at 1 temp being really farken hot for a long period of time so it gets hot and stays hot and doesnt have much chance to cool down and contract. compare to a street driven car where it heats up when driving, then goes cold when you stop. then heats up when u drive it again. therefore the metal would expand and contract more making it more prone to cracking. Ill stop now im sure im digging the hole even deeper.

Im curious to know why to put some paint on the heat wrap aswell, i have never heard of that being done. Im not trying to say i know more than a mechanic or anything but i still have worries about the heat wrap cracking the pipe quicker than without the wrap. The way i see it, the wrap holds in the heat which doesnt allow the pipe to radiate the heat therefore putting more stress on the welds. (which i have seen done before) could have just as easily cracked if it was crappy welding anyway. having a race car in a 24 hour race shouldnt do much damage because its only going for 24 hours and the car is sitting mostly at the one temperature. compare that to everyday driving where the car has to last years of heating up to big temps and cooling down to nothing on nearly a daily basis I would be worried heatwrap would reduce the life of the wrapped part. Im about to put some heatwrap on my dump pipe. so ill find out myself

oh great, the day i get my opens i find this out. so whats the go with losing the points? you have to go to court and then admit to having a defective car? would the judge make up their own price or would it be the set $75 per defect? What a f**kn waste of time and resources.

they dont suck shut. under vacuum it sucks in the pressure and when it comes onto boost it pushes out air. so you would be more worried about it expanding too much but that shouldnt happen. correct me if im wrong.

R33 gtst Rb25 Z32 afm splitfire coils sard fuel reg tomei metal head gasket hybrid intercooler garrett GT3540 turbo with .82 rear tial 38mm wastegate. Apexi power fc Blitz sbc id3 boost controller. etc etc Makes 300hp @ 14psi on a safe tune as it needs to get me to work daily. Just got it back today and quite happy with the result. Will post up dyno chart if i can get it on my computer Mark at godzilla tuned it. did a good job

besides, speedflow fittings pulls chicks. ; )

mate if your prepared to put a gt3540 on your rb25, then be prepared to do things properly otherwise it will cause more problems than its worth. Im in the process of doing the same thing to my car. goodluck with it.

Mate im definantly interested if you havent sold it in 4 weeks. I just have to pay for my new turbo to be installed which will be a killer. If you dont manage to sell it in that time send me a pm. thanks

There are different types of cas? hmm news to me, i thought u just rotated it to change the timing.

sounds like its an air leak. could be gaskets. Also try checking all the silicon hose joiners are tight. u say the exhaust gasket has been recently replaced, the mechanic could have been lazy and not tightened everything up

shotgun power fc if it goes back up for sale. PM me if so

go for somthing like tnt or a roadfreight service. dont get a courier. I work for a big courier company and it would cost a hell of a lot more than $65 to send rims interstate. but if u need it overnight it would be good tho. oh and +2 for insurance. keep it safe

I did mine with the engine running without any issues. take off the hose, start the car and turn full lock left to right about 12 times and it should drain out easily. then connect everything up, fill up the fluid. with the car on turn left to right and u will see it sucks in the fluid in, keep topping it up until full and bubbles gone.

I managed to buy a bottle of the Meguiars wheel spray on the weekend. that worked alright on getting dirt off the painted bits, but the blacks still look dull and on the tappet cover there is still caked on grease i just cannot get off. Ill keep trying and ill update with what works

http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/ try that link

When installing my blitz ebc, the manual said the line should not be longer than 3 ft. But I think even 3ft is a bit long. Mine sits in plain view just under the filter

I think i might go try the meguires stuff. I was quite impressed with their wax, its just expensive thats all. EMZ R33. Big kev is dead. sorry to say. lol Now I just wanna get the plastics to have that wet/shiny look. hmm

what about the paint in the engine bay? mine seems to be tarnished with grease and it looks ugly. U reckon the wheel cleaner would do the trick aswell?

Hi all, As the topic states I was wondering if anyone had inside knowledge of how to clean and engine bay and make it look clean? I can never get mine to look as good. but all i really use is degreaser at most. Also whats the stuff used to make the black plastic have a shiny almost wet look? armourall? Any help would be great. thanks

just do the dodgey, take it down to an exhaust shop and get them to refit the flange on the manifold so the turbo can fit on. probly the cheap and easy way out i think

oh and i think you have an ECR33 if you have an rb25. the BNR33 is the r33 GTR which has an RB26. (not trying to be a smart ass, just puttin it straight for ya)

Mate if you dont know what the noise is. get it checked out asap. the way you describe it, its hard to pinpoint what it is. im guessing it may be from the gearbox, or your turbo is stuffed. The oil pressure guage on the dash in a lot of skylines is very inaccurate. I recommend buying boost guage, oil pressure and oil temp. water temp if you want but the rest is for people trying to show off to their passengers. as for fluids, try doing a search on this site to see what other people use in their cars.

I didnt have any water in there because i pulled off the head to replace the head gasket, so everything was drained. I wouldnt spend over 100 and yes try getting the whole assembly

Its a good way to learn more about the car if you do it yourself, just make sure you do the timing belt properly. yea id go the breaker bar. try putting heaps of wd 40 on the harmonic balancer bolt the night before to losen up the bolt a little. yea put it in 4th and rip up the handbrake and it will do the trick. And QWK32, im pretty sure with the screwdriver trick thingy u need to take the starter motor off and u have to jam it in somewhere to lock up the gearbox. Its how you are supposed to do it in the skyline manual.

I did the exact same thing to mine when i was putting the head back on my rb25. Ur right its only about 3 or so bolts holding it down with 2 hoses connecting the water cooler bit. I picked up a spare for about 70 bucks to replace. u may be able to get it cheaper if your keen on hunting around.