siksII

Haha actually you would be suprised, the exhaust is very quiet in normal driving, on the freeway you can barely hear it...however...when you unleash it screams! Hard to compare with your vids due to the wheelspin, also i guess your car weighs less.

The window is open thats why the sound is kinda wavery: I will make a proper videos for you guys soon

Boost ramps up from around 10psi to 21psi extremely aggressively, this is what makes it want to ping. Jez, we tuned the car in 'track spec' without a cat Birds - It had stock turbo running the usual 180rwkw at 9psi before. I had the motor compression tested and also tested on the dyno for off boost performance and its 100%. Current tuner also confirmed the motor feels perfect. I have a 3inch custom intake, thats not an issue. Injectors - brand new Cooler - Genuine greddy, I clean and check it every couple of years, was making normal power with stock turbo -Exhaust, who knows but both tuners and my mechanic said it should be fine with that exhaust, its a 80mm Apexi with only 1 muffler -Timing - sorry but i dont believe in your method of referencing your timing table, every setup it is a little different, the only time to perhaps reference your timing table would be if its ridiculously different to expected -Rubber gasket was replaced with a rubber one with metal surround so it cannot blow out. Got the entire intake system pressurised, 100% sure no leaks there My views about.. The power issue: -I believe around 10rwkw is being lost compared to the average tuned car due to the tyres. Im running Federal 595 RSRs, they are very soft and sticky when hot. A mate of mine tested his car with then, tuner said its down on power blah blah and then he changed to normal tyres, went back, made normal power, around 10rwkw more. -The reference graph showing 280rwkw is deceptive, without going into detail I dont believe this is and accurate reflection of how much power the turbo will make for most customers, I did not expect the car to make 280. Even Stao himself is now saying it will make around 260 and I believe this is closer to the mark for this turbo and the majority of cars/dynos. -There is something else holding back the power on my car but I dont know what it is yet. I believe this is so because on the hypergear reference dyno graph, the turbo/power tapers off at 17psi@5500rpm. If you check my power graph you can see mine only tapers off at around 17psi@6800rpm, the turbo does not max out in the same way, it has more to give. Driving experience: I dont like linear power delivery, I wanted a turbo that ramps up hard and feels aggressive and challenging to drive. This is far more fun and entertaining and exciting for me compared to a lame linear power delivery. This turbo most definitely delivers what I wanted. In terms of the driving experience, this turbo is exactly what I wanted. The car feels exciting and pretty hardcore to drive. -Driveability is good below 3000 but not much is going on. -3000 to 4000rpm the spooling sound is awesome and the car starts pulling -4000 to 5000 the rush and g force is mad, in traffic I naturally tend to shift at 5000 max since the acceleration is so aggressive up to that point. -5000 onwards is just a mad pull, if you shift up at the redline in each gear, 4th gear feels like it revs out just as quick at 3rd.. it just doesnt stop pulling. Havent wound out 5th (yet) but it still pulls hard in 5th! I have full traction in 1st most of the time and the g force when coming onto boost really pushes you back in the seat. Thank you RSRs and mechanical diff! I took a video where a friend takes off normally and shifts slow into second, revving it out in each gear. Having a closer look at it, I realised that even with the slow takeoff and shifts we hit 100 in 5.x seconds! Ill need to hook up the pbox and do some testing I have been in plenty of cars with similar power levels and to be honest although the graph shows 242rwkw, it feels like more than that on the road. Moving forward.. I would like to try the lower pressure actuator and also run it with normal tyres to see what difference it makes. I would also like to try running it without the cat back to see if that is restriction. In the meantime I am having a great time getting used to the car and look forward to every drive. PM me if you are in Sydney and want to go for a ride.

Result for my SS1 PU are in: Overall its not bad but not the best -Peak power 244kw -Makes about 200kw at 4000rpm (good, expected) -Boost goes from 21psi in midrange to 17psi in top end -Tuner reckons something is holding it back since its doesnt make that power in the top end easily however he is not sure what it is -Tuner reckons that it comes on too hard with the current actuator so they had to massively reduce timing (which he is not happy with) so it would not ping in the mid range -If they use the EBC at all there is too much boost low down so they are not using it -If it had a lower pressure actuator he thinks they could run lower boost and more timing down low, then higher boost up top and more peak power I will pick it up tomorrow morning, tuner had not yet driven it when i spoke to him. He thinks it will feel very fast and pull hard so it may not be worth chasing more top end.

My car is on the dyno right now. Major boost leak was caused by the rubber intake manifold gasket... cant wait to see how it goes. I bought the SS1PU specifically because Stao said its a cool running turbo, good for the track. Hopefully this is really the case.

Ive been away since the start of this year so did not have time to troubleshoot my lack of power and finish the tune with my SS1PU. Finally back home and having the car sorted out tomorrow. With some luck I hope it wont be too hard to work out the power loss issue before completing the tune. Has anyone finished their SS1PU tunes and got final results in the last two months? Flicked through the thread but didnt see any. Edit : Found one in the dyno results thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/55845-rb25-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/page__view__findpost__p__6189807 Any more?

I think maybe whats annoying Sarge is that there is a bunch of people here who say everything is easy just do this blah blah its so simple. Message to those people - you obviously have very little practical experience if you think that way so unless you have some specific advice to help someone then don't repeat the same useless 'its easy blah blah' rubbish. Sarge, im sending you a PM I know someone who can sort it out for you.

It's 100% not the cat, one of the first things my tuner asked about. He's an experienced, well respected guy, no tuner bashing please

Ive struck some back luck - picked the car up early from the tuners today. Car makes boost as expected but does not make power. There is either a blockage or leak in the intake or exhaust system that has gone unnoticed. Its very unlikely that there is any problem with the turbo or actuator, so I will be checking out all the piping etc as soon as I can and maybe replacing the stock BOV while im at it. Engine compression is fine and it makes normal power off boost so it has to be something else.

You could feel it in any gear, in particular at low speeds in the first 3 gears. Definitely not only in 5th.

Just closing the loop on this one. Finally got rid of the clunk in my driveline, im so happy right now. The car had been checked on the hoist by myself and two other mechanics on separate occasions with no indication of where the clunk was from. There was no noticeable free play anywhere. I recently had the tailshaft, diff and CVs removed as I was getting a 1 way Nismo centre put into my housing. Parts that were changed were: -Diff centre (installed into housing by diff shop and adjusted accordingly) -Axles and shafts (so CVs are different now too) I reused the crown and pinion from my car and the diff bushes were not changed. The clunk was gone. The original CVs seemed ok, they were inspected on the car and on the bench, so this leaves the stock diff centre itself as the most likely cause of my annoying clunk with a less likely option being the CVs. Having a nasty clutch is now not so much of big deal since you dont have to be 110% perfect with even slow upchanges to avoid any clunking.

I would go with this option since its cheaper and less hassle/effort.

So my car is finally back on the road, couldn't be happier to drive it today, im sick of driving boring new cars Its still got the old stock turbo 10psi tune but is running the SS1PU and supporting mods hence I could only drive it softly on partial throttle. First impressions: -I love having no exhaust leak (which was there before I did the turbo swap) -The turbo starts spooling at what feels around 3000rpm in the lower gears, it sounds great -I gave it slightly heavier throttle in 5th gear once and after it builds around 7-8psi the boost wants to ramp hard, i backed off but in a split second it jumped up to 12-13psi Tune should be done by end of next week, I cant wait to unleash this turbo!!!!!!!!

Stao - please dont take this the wrong way but those photos you posted are misleading, the angles you took those photos do show only a marginal difference. I hope this feedback can help you improve your product. I have common bolt on parts and due to your product my air con drain pipe will now catch fire and drain into the cabin with no easy solution. My mechanic has measured it it for me and found that the different is 25mm, not 15 mm. 25mm is basically one inch - it is significant if you are claiming easy bolt on fitment. Let me show you with the following photos. Stock turbo - turbine inlet in line with outlet: SS1-PU turbine Standard bracket and bolt on Apexi cat back with bolt on cat and bolt on Just Jap front pipe (all fit perfect been on and off car several times) : With ruler for measurement: Just Jap bellmouth dump/front pipe (very common bolt on part) unavoidably touching air con drain: And from below:

Thanks mate, saw your result but yours is a SS1.5PU, im talking about the SS1PU which has different specs on the compressor side (rated for more power) You are the only good example I can compare with for installation problems since others are talking different models and seems like you have some of the same issues.

When I say full custom I mean its not a hi flowed 21U or OP6 housing, it is a aftermarket housing which is then customised by Hypergear. I dont think that plate is welded to models using the standard 21U/OP6 housing which is used with most of the ATR43 models. Stao is this correct or is that plate welded to every ATR43?

Thanks for the feedback Pete - have you got the car fully tuned yet?

Hey mate, the spacer plate that most people are using is one that fits between the turbo and manifold so the larger compressor housing doesnt foul. The PU unit I am using is a full custom rear housing, it does not use a spacer place so its a different story.

Once again, where are the successful fit ups of SS1-PUs? Feedback here is mostly for hiflows not the PU with a custom rear housing. There isnt a single customer supplied final dyno result for this exact turbo to this date so where is the feedback you talk about? My mechanic did start at the turbo since my whole exhaust was off anyway however if you read Stao's comments this goes against his instructions about forcing it on with the exhaust fully attached. My car is at a performance workshop that fits this type of stuff day in day out and I myself have fitted stock and HKS turbos several times at home so this is not new to me. I know my exhaust is not bent and my cat fits perfect since i have had it on and off a couple of times and also had two stock turbos on an off my car which both fit perfect. You are in Sydney so send me an PM and lets go together and if you honestly think its a good fit then you can call me and my mechanic idiots in person, im dead serious, come have a look and no hard feelings either way.

Im not worried that the new turbo will cause the studs to bend etc, I have experienced many broken studs and manifolds with the stock turbo so its an existing issue. I'll take difficult fitment as a chance to improve the reliability of the exhaust and make it fit easier. Your fitment method may work but forcing it on will just put extra stress on the studs and manifold which does not make sense when there is already a problem with the studs snapping. Guys who track/drift their sr20 powered cars have issues with the studs snapping due to the exhaust pulling on the turbo and I have even seen one workshop who sell beefy brackets to hold it in place properly so its not an unknown issue. The small stock bracket is not strong enough to hold a big exhaust in place in corners. Is there a reason the turbo has to sit 15mm back from stock position? Looks like you could just make the welded on plate thinner?

Also something else to note is that the front pipe did not come near the rubber air con drain pipe however when it is fitted to the new turbo it now touches the drain, this is a very clear indication that the dump sits back further compared to stock. Stao, Is there a problem with manufacturing the plate so its the same fitment as stock? ie is there a reason for it being different or just an oversight?

This is an SS1-PU, ive only heard feedback from 1 other person on this forum about this exact turbo and one other with the SS1.5. Most of the guys here have hiflows which use the standard housing. I would love to see dyno results but have not found any of this exact turbo from someone who has it fully tuned. If you hear of any let me know. Do you have an SS1-PU? Im not worried about the stress on the actual turbo housing, im talking about stress on the turbo to manifold studs (and the others) They bend, stretch and snap. The exhaust moves around on the hangars when cornering and hence puts stress on the studs. A flex join in the exhaust helps this. Im sure its best to keep weight off the manifold itself as well since rb25 manifolds crack and warp at the best of times. This is pretty common problem on tracked cars, I dont think its an issue if the car is not used for track/hard cornering all the time. Stao - from memory the plate welded to mine looks bigger than 15mm. Here is a pic of it (sitting next to a HKS 2530)

Thanks Stao - we were hoping it would fit by just loosening or modifying the bracket however my unit looks to be approx 20mm to long and it is too far off in terms of length and angle. I will probably have a flex join fitted with a custom bracket to replace the stock one. This way everything will fit and there will be less stress on the turbo.

My upgrade is nearly done however have hit an issue while re fitting the exhaust. The SS1-PU is longer than the standard turbo so the dump pipe has moved back and no longer lines up with the cat. Unless we have missed something this makes it definitely not bolt on since we have to now modify the exhaust to make it fit. There is a thick plate welded on the back of the exhaust housing which I assume was to get the whole turbo the same size as the stock one however it is about 20mm longer. Any thoughts?

Thanks! The stock lines ended up fitting with bending only and rather than using washers to space out the banjo it was machined down to the correct size.