blind_elk

Maguires and towelling seems to work OK for me

Thermostat and fuel filter are probably the same - or at least very similar - to the 300ZX-DET(T), or most other Nissan models. Similarly for water pump - but don't quote me. The inlet gasket is only normal paper type, I believe you can buy the paper, so make your own. I'm sure there are people in the States who do custom exhaust gaskets.

I'm on my second set, and I only replaced the first because I was concerned how they would go in a RWC. I've got good mileage out of them (20k+), including some time on the race track (club sprints only). They don't like being caned (as on the track), but as a general on-road high performance tyre, I've yet to fault them. They're probably not as good overall as Bridgie 520s or whatever those Bridgies are on the HSVs, but those Bridgies are not twice as good (I think they cost about twice as much). A good bang-for-your-buck performance tyre, IMHO.

If it was a good turbo shop, they would have got it right in the first place?Another possibility is the turbos have been re-assembled "out of phase" (a mate had some on a 33 GTR, and they had been assembled so the wastegates weren't operating at the same pressure). Watch the boost gauge when the problem is occurring - apparently, compressor surge causes the boost to jump all over the place.

Sounds like the siren for the alarm/immobiliser. The key turns to siren on/off - so you can disconnect the battery without setting off the siren.

Bendix Ultimates (DB1220) - probably cost around $110 @ Autobarn

It will be a stretch to make them fit. Get hold of a manufacturer's tech sheet - u know, the product list. It should have a spec sheet that lists the optimum wheel width for each tyre size. eg, a 235 tyre is probably designed for a 7.5" - 9" wheel.

I think you will find it's a polyurethane foam. Usually sprayed into box sections like the sills under the doors.

What I have heard, and it applies to the majorityof RB engines, is that the heat / cool cycle of the engine causes the bolts holding the oil pump in place to gradually loosen off and oil leaks past the mounting face.

I'd have called it a yellow light, and it seems to come on at around 15litres left.

Perhaps a bit late, but I understand the castor rods should not be tightened up until the car is on the ground and the suspension has settled to its normal position.

The fun part is getting the rear one up and over the exhaust system. Other than that, its pretty obvious how it all fits together.I did my rear one with the car up on ramps. maybe one thing to check before you even start is to lay the new bars on the ground and ensure they sit "flat" ie the 2 "eyes" and the 2 bends all touch the ground (I had a minor drama getting the eyes connected to the link posts)

BOOSTD The R33 might be different. But in the R32, there is a plug directly onto the TPS (this is the SWITCH), and there is another plug that connects to a short loom off the bottom side of the TPS (this one is the SENSOR). The SENSOR is infinitely variable output, while the SWITCH is basically 2 x on/off switches (closed throttle, WOT).

BOOSTD, There are 2 TPS, one is a Throttle Position SWITCH, the other is a Throttle Position SENSOR. Both built into the one unit, on the side of the throttle. The SWITCH tells the ECU that the throttle is closed or WO. The SENSOR tells the ECU how much throttle is being applied.

They way I do it: insert 0.012" feeler blade in throttle stop. disconnect plug from TPS. connect multimeter (ohms mode) on bottom 2 pins of TPS. adjust TPS until 0 ohms (probably switches between 0 and infinite). reconnect everything.

25 - Air Temp 32 - Air Mass (variable output) 33 - Reference (?) 34 - +V 35 - ? All the pinouts connect directly into the ECU, so it's difficult to determine exactly from the wiring schematic what some do. Hope that helps. If you like, pm me with a fax contact, and I can send the diagram to you.

Can get - tomorrow (manual is at home) Anything in particular, or just the whole pinout thing?

Recaro: IdealSeat, Cheltenham (check Yellow Pages for phone)

check ur pm

I bought a set of second hand wheels for my R30 - 2 had been damage, like run flat, badly pitted around the tyre seal. The guy I got them from managed to get them fixed - said he didn't believe they were the same wheels when he picked them up. I don't know where they were done (somewhere in Heidelberg) - see the guys at Beaurepaires in Bayswater and ask them about the RS Impul wheels.

Of course you can changer gears :uh-huh: Every auto I've ever driven gets driven like a manual, ie change down a gear or 2 when approaching a corner, or crank it back to 1st at a set of lights.I wouldn't expect a RWD 'box to simply bolt up to the side of the t-case to give 4WD. Maybe a genuine GTS4 'box would be cheaper than a GT-R 'box.

blowby - correct me if I'm wrong - is the combustion gasses leaking past the rings and pressurising the sump.

How much are you asking?

In a recent Zoom!, Martin did an article on compressor surge. The symptoms are as you describe. Occurs particularly in 'hi-flowed' turbos that are not properly matched to the engine. The car in question was a R33 with SAFC. They retuned the SAFC for leaner fuel and more advance - it reduced the problem, but didn't totally cure it.

Maybe it was complianced in 1995.