blind_elk

Since most of the braking is done by the front, it's not as important to get top performance pads for the rears. Bendix Ultimates would be more than adequate, Autobarn and the like should be able to get some for you.

As per topic, anyone (pref Melb) wrecking a R32, I need the passenger seat belt assembly.

NCCA is more rally oriented. NDSOC's web site is currently having a major revamp. We hope to have it up and running soon.

Don't worry, already done it. Helps if you remove the front seat and rear base. Then remove a small screw in the guide where the belt comes out of its hiding place. The trim will then pop away (gently), giving access to 2 bolts that secure the retractor mechanism. It looks like, in this case, it's new belt time.

NDSOC do their track days with MSCA (Marque Sports Car Assoc). There is a sprint this coming Sunday (yes, Bathurst day) at Sandown. You're welcome to come and watch (probably too late to enter). Then, on the following Sunday, NDSOC will be conducting a driver training day, again at Sandown. Entry forms should be available at the web site (ndsoc.com.au), otherwise email [email protected] . NOTE: you need to be a member of a CAMS affiliated car club to do these events. we will gladly sign you up on the day. You will also require a CAMS L2 licence, $91, valid for 12 months. And the car will require a fire extinguisher and auxilliary bonnet restraints, and you need a stack hat (helmet).

But they are feeding a common plenum chamber. The laws of physics dictate that the pressure will be distributed evenly throughout the induction system. Therefore you can only run boost equivalent to the lesser of the 2 turbos. So if you're running 9psi on each turbo, you can only run 9psi at the wastegates, and therefore 9psi at the valves. If you are running 18psi on each (ceramic) turbo, you are flirting with danger.

1983 MR30 hatchback. Looking for a sedan to fit the L20ET.

I've had a problem for a while now where the LH seatbelt would not retract properly. Usually, extending it a bit more would allow it to retract properly. Now I'm in trouble, because I've taken it to full extension, and it just will not retract. How difficult is it to get at the retractor mechanism, and can it be fixed, or is it new belt time? TIA.

Ah, don't think so - if you're running 9psi in each turbo, then you'll still only run 9psi overall. And if you're running 18 psi in each turbo, the ceramic wheels aren't going to stay attached to the spindles for too long.But someone might be able to prove me wrong.

That's crap. Tell him to check the ADRs (ADR 13/00). For Main-beam (ie high beam): 6.1.7.1. The main-beam headlamps may be switched on either simultaneously or in pairs. For changing over from the dipped to the main beam at least one pair of main-beam headlamps shall be switched on. For changing over from the main-beam to the dipped- beam all main-beam headlamps shall be switched off simultaneously. 6.1.7.2. The dipped-beams may remain switched on at the same time as the mainbeams. For dipped (low) beam: 6.2.7. Electrical connections The control for changing over to the dipped beam must switch off all main-beam headlamps simultaneously. The dipped beams may remain switched on at the same time as the main beams.

You need a 27mm socket - fits on the bolt that holds the crank pulley in place. It all just sits there (unlike the chain on the old L-series engines).

1. Bring #1 cylinder to TDC. 2. Mark position of CAS 3. Remove CAS, cam cover 4. Remove CAS mounting bracket 5. Mark position of cam belt relative to TDC on cam wheel. 6. Undo cam wheel retaining bolts 7. remove cam wheel - may require some levering and wiggling 8. Insert new cam wheel, aligning its TDC mark with the mark you made on the cam belt 10. You should now be able to put the cam wheel back up onto the camshaft. may need to adjust crank to get the locating dowel to align properly 11. replace camwheel retaining bolts, tighten 12. replace CAS mounting bracket 13. replace cam cover 14. replace CAS, aligning marks. I think that covers it all. It might be worthwhile to carefully check that all clearances are maintained, ie no bolts sitting out further than they used to, before doing 12 / 13 / 14. You may also need to get a check done on the timing, it might be a few degs out.

I think you will find that therein lies the problem. Get the steering wheel lined up properly on the sensor, and get a wheel alignment with the steering wheel in the centred position.

When you switch to"ON" position, all the lights come on - that's to show that the globes are working. Then "Start", and they should all go out - that shows there are no problems with the systems that those lights monitor.

No-one said it did. The comment was made that backpressure operates to cause things to move towards the back of the car. With all the fluid dynamics happening in the exhaust pipe, with valve overlap, scavenging, etc, who's to say that a shattered (ie powdery) ceramic won't end up back up in the cylinders.

Pair of vice-grips to grasp the hose on the filter - tight enough not to slip, but not too tight to grab, then twist the filter - usually breaks the seal.

I'm playing Devil's Advocate here, but since when have cops been qualified / licenced RWC inspectors?

WTF!!!! It's called back pressure because it's pushing back towards the engine. So it's quite possible for a shattered ceramic exhaust wheel to find its way back into the cylinders - where it will perform a fine job of de-glazing the bores.

It's the flasher relay - usually cylindrical, usually hides under the dash somewhere. But really, FIIK about the R33's.

The hazards are on a separate circuit, and the alarm is probably on the hazard circuit. Its probable you pinched or broken a wire for the normal indicators, most likely on the input side to the flasher can.

It could be something simple like the ATTESSA 4WD cutting in and out. It initially detects rear slip, so activates 4WD, then slip goes away so it goes to RWD which then starts slipping....

Melbourne's weather is designed for people who are too poor to travel. If you don't like the weather, hang around for half an hour - maybe it will change to something you like.

Have you checked the disk pads recently?

I believe it should only dim the backlights. Any warning or indication lights should be unaffected ie indicators, handbrake, etc

I think its 6 on the RB26. It's furthest from the main air inlet. But I think the problem is more related to the fact that #5 & #6 are furthest from the cool cooling water, so the area around #5/6 cylinders and combustion chambers do not get the same degree of cooling that the other forward cylinders get.