blind_elk

You mean 1 that Nissan actually sold in Oz? Not a 'grey' import R32? If so, the tail lights are different from the original Jap model. I know of 1 or 2 in Melb (for photos).

Try an oil change in the gearbox. The oil might be getting too thin, or too low level, to stop the gears rotating when you disconnect the 'box from the engine. As for the idle, clean the AAC valve, clean inside the throttle body around the throttle butterfly, check for air leaks in the induction plumbing.

You have to be extremely careful spraying water around the engine bay - there are so many electrical connections for the water to get into and start the corrosion process. Once that happens, the car starts running like crap.

I have the same R30 (hatchback). I was going to do the conversion, but the A/C got in the way of a small front-mount (stock RB20). And having spent $600 getting the A/C working, I wasn't going to trash it! So I'm planning to sell the hatchback and get the sedan - rip the A/C out so I can fit the IC. The L20ET I was going to fit now has a RB20DET BB hanging off the side. The L20 only runs 7.5 CR, so its pretty gutless off-boost. I think it would be better if you simply removed the manifold gear and bolted it up to the L24. The L24 runs 8.5 CR, which could quite easily accept 1 bar of boost without too many problems.

I used to use Promech, but the guy just pissed me around so much - once left my car with him for a week with a list of 5 relatively easy things to investigate / fix. When I picked it up, he'd done nothing that I asked for. Mate had a R33 GT-R, the engine blew a turbo and required a full rebuild. That took the better part of 6 months! Then later he found that the turbos had not been installed properly, with 1 opening the wastegate way ahead of the other. There was also a problem with tuning a plug-in ECU, can't remember which one - might have been a Link -, but Vince couldn't tune it so he pressured the guy to buy an APEXi (I think). Later, 'Eric' managed to easily re-tune the original plug-in.

Just need to find something that only works while the engine is running - maybe something like the wipers (I can't remember how I did mine). It's not so hard to splice into the wire at the sensor, but you could alternatively pick up pin 29 at the ECU.

www.jpnz.co.nz has owners manuals and workshop (engine only) manuals.

From memory, you need to tap into the white wire off the O2 sensor. Check it with a multimeter - output should vary between 0 - 1V. Hook the power off the ON posi - ie only supply power while the engine is running.

You don't need a multimeter - just rig up a test light with a globe and a couple of lengths of wire, use it like a multimeter.

go to www.cams.com.au - they have a car club locator so you can find a car club that will have the same basic interests as you.

Try cleaning the AAC valve (on the back of the plenum chamber). It might be sticking a bit.

ALL the dash lights? May just be coincidence that the dash lights have blown at the same time. It shouldn't matter about connecting without resistance, because that's how the car was designed.

It's usually the thrust bearing (the bit that actually presses on the fingers of the pressure plate). In my experience it's not a critical, must-fix, sound.

In the 32, the HICAS works off the P/S system. Usually the first thing to check when HICAS problems arise is the P/S fluid level. My experience with the fronts going crazy was a bad connection onto the alternator, causing a 'low voltage' error in the P/S / HICAS. But how can it all act freaky if the engine is off and therefore nothing being powered?

Wishing a safe Xmas to all SAU members.

ECCS Pinouts: AFM -> ECU: 1 blank 2 -> 27 Signal 3 -> 60 (Ground) 4 -> 26 Ground 5 -> 49 (+12V) CAS -> ECU: 1 -> 41, 51 - 120 deg signal 2 -> 42, 52 - 1 deg signal 3 -> 49, 59 (+12V) 4 -> 60 (Ground)

First things first: Is it getting fuel? Fuel pump working during cranking? Are the injectors operating? Is it getting spark? Factory or Aftermarket ECU?

Puts too much stress on the gearbox. Of course. Once it breaks, its lifetime has ended.It's like a "concrete warranty" - once it's off my concrete, what warranty?

"Toyota Hi-Ace Ute". ie BUGGA I'm led to believe that if it's stolen for drugs, the little turds don't even bother to convert them to cash - just use the gear as payment. Which means there's drug dealers all over Melbourne with garages full of stolen car audio. Just got mine back after install of a new radio from when car was broken into and the radio stolen (little turd ignored the alarm siren going off outside). Damaged the door lock / handle, and broke the surround around the centre console too.

O2 sensor really doesn't work under high load conditions. So save your money replacing it.

You'll need to remove the cover between the 2 rocker covers. This will expose the coil packs on the spark plugs.With the engine idling, disconnect the plug from each coil pack in turn. The one where there is no difference to the running of the engine is the faulty one. Move it to another cylinder, then repeat the process. If it occurs on the same coilpack, it's the coilpack that is faulty. If it still occurs at the same cylinder, it's either the spark plug, or the ignitor module.

And a 33 is longer than a 32. The dump pipes are the same, but that's about all that's common, AFAIK.

If I read you correctly, you've stuck the heat shield bracket BETWEEN the turbo and the dump. Right? It goes OUTSIDE the flange ie dump mounts up to turbo, and bracket sits on dump, then put bolts thru bracket and dump into turbo. The wire / connection is the O2 sensor.

Only autos have a dipstick. In a manual 'box, the only way to check is to remove the filler plug. The oil should be just below the level of the filler hole. (Don't forget to make sure the car is level)

$500 sounds like a bargain. When mine broke down in Tailem Bend, my roadside assistance knocked back an offer of just under 1G to bring the car back to Melbourne.