blind_elk

There is a fault in the HICAS system, which, in R33s, is separate from the P/S system. But try checking the P/S fluid level first. And how old is the battery?

It won't be the AAC valve - that is only for idle control. IT WILL NOT BE THE O2 SENSOR!!!!!!!!!!!!! A dead O2 sensor will not prevent the engine from running. It will simply cause an increase in fuel consumption (at worst). It could be the fuel pump controller playing up. See if you can get a fuel pressure gauge set up and drive around a bit observing if fuel pressure has an effect. The clear plastic fuel filters are for carburetted engines. They only need to withstand around 4psi pressure. All EFI engines run a metal canister fuel filter, so they can withstand the 3bar + fuel pressures.

Which ECU are you using?

The springs support the weight of the car. The shock absorbers control the motion of the springs. You can only lower the car by fitting low springs. I happen to have a set of stock springs that have been reset to lower the ride height, if you are interested.

According to the VicRoads website (http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/Home/Licenc...intOffences.htm), this is not an offence that attracts demerit points.

If they have adjustable spring platforms, you also need to factor in the cost to corner weight the car.

Checked the fan belt tension? What error codes are coming out of the ATTESSA ECU?

Basically just pull the pins, that pads will slide out upwards. Then press the pistons back into the caliper to fit the new pads.

If you don't have a bleed nipple on the master, then crack the union where it connects to the master.

If you only drive it once a week, it's probable the battery is on the way out. And Skylines in general are VERY susceptible to voltages. Because the alternator is busy recharging the battery following the start procedure, the ECU sees this increased amperage output as a potential problem, and can't run the engine properly. Try keeping the battery on a trickle charge, at least for the 24 hours before you normally drive the car. And for goodness sake, keep it off boost while the engine is still cold.

You should be able to remove the injectors without actually removing the inlet plenum. RB20s you just remove the fuel rail. RB25s, it helps if you remove the throttle body to remove the fuel rail. If the basic electrics are still in place, you can remove the CAS (leave plugged into the loom) and spin slowly by hand to cause the injector to pulse (with ign ON). Better still, get the injectors to a cleaning service, they can evaluate spray patterns and clean the injectors. There are mobile services that do this. OK, it will cost you, but well worth it in the long run.

The ATTESSA problem will be related to the sensor "or its circuit". If the sensor appears to be intact, it would then be that the power supply to the sensor has been broken. Have you drill any holes, screwed any screws, recently? The clutch problem might just be that you are a bit quick with the clutch release (pedal up) process. Try slowing it down a bit.

Any old spark plug lead will do the job.

Doesn't ATTESSA use the ABS sensors as wheel-speed sensors, so it can tell loss of rear traction?

Why not? Mine is fine.

They were too stupid and incompetent to cut the tint film around the brake light? Tell them to do it properly!

Ok, have you got spark happening? Have you got fuel coming out of injectors?

So you are missing the actual arm that holds the blade? The rear wiper is just a smaller version of the front wiper. But, do you actually need a rear wiper for a RWC?

ABS is not for everyday use, it is for those "OH SH!T" moments, so you should be perfectly safe without it. So what exactly is wrong with the ABS? For the reverse lights, check the wires coming off the switch (located on the gearbox), and check all the other associated wiring.

The AAC is relatively easy to get to. Electrical load problems are generally related to the alternator. First step is to check that the tension on the alternator / fan belt is correct (tight enough).

I used the same aerial that was in the house when I moved in 15 years ago, and it worked fine on the HDTV. Only change I made was to replace the old-school ribbon cable with a good quality coax cable. As luck would have it, I have a "spare" aerial if you (or anyone) is interested.

On the other side, is it possible to install a 33 ECU into a 32 - if just for the increased polling frequency - and have it work correctly?

They can be cleaned. Check the FAQ area for how-to.

The clicking is the starter solenoid clicking in and out as the actual starter motor causes a massive drain on the available voltage. Before you get a new battery, try jump starting the car. And if the starter solenoid does its clicking thing, try a direct application of battery power to the solenoid switch connection (make sure the transmission is in neutral, and handbrake on).

For what you want, I reckon some Pedders shocks would suffice. Or you could go up a grade and get some KYB or Tockico shocks. Not as good as Bilsteins / Konis, but not as expensive either! And Pedders will be able to do HD springs as well.