blind_elk

Of course it is - it's pinging! Because the engine is cold, and the ECU is running the engine rich. Have you actually looked to see what plugs are installed?You still haven't told us what fuel pressure the engine is running. If the plug is running too hot, it can pre-ignite the mixture (works like a glowplug).

But why? Your R32 should already have 4-piston front calipers.

You are joking, right?

AWD / NA sumps are not interchangeable. Get a R32 GTS4 engine (RB20DET + AWD). You might need to swap your NA diff into the RB20 - R32 = 4.375:1.

Have you done the diagnostic test on the A/C?

Under any situation, it makes the car unroadworthy. The tyres on an axle must be identical (maker, model, size).

Centre of pivot bolt to centre of ball joint - approx 400mm

Only the GT-R runs a resistor pack. GTSTs don't use one.

Sorry, but RB20 coils are a 3-pin connection. As are RB25 coils. All RB20 coils and S1 RB25 coils use an external ignitor box. S2 RB25 coils have the ignitor built into the individual coils. But they all have 3-pin connections - +12V, earth, and switch (either from ignitor or from ECU). "blind elk" (no-eyed deer) how you got it to work before.

"6" heat range should be fine, considering the factory spec is a "5". The gap has no effect on the "speed" of ignition, so the timing will not be affected to any significant degree. The type of plug is pretty much irrelevant. Pt plugs are used standard because they require less maintenance and a longer replacement interval than Cu plugs. In all other respects, they are the same - they simply provide a facility to ignite the fuel / air mixture inside the combustion chamber. Try opening the gap out to, say, 1mm. This should provide a stronger spark, and therefore a better burn of the fuel/air mixture. Or maybe you are just used to the power delivery, and there is no problem at all.

Nissan coils have THREE connections - IGN power, earth, ignitor switch. I strongly suspect that a Nissan ignitor will not work with a Bosch coil, which only has + and -. Your revised wiring diagram will not work, because the ignitor will effectively supply +12V to the -ve of the coil when the ECU signals #1 to fire. That will negate the +12V being applied to the +ve of the coil, so there is no potential difference across the terminals of the coil. Bosch make ignitor modules to work with "standard" coils. But you will probably need 1 per coil.

DO NOT ADJUST THE THROTTLE STOP SCREW (the "screw thingo"). You are running a PFC - the problem will be in the tune of the PFC, possibly in the throttle over-run settings.

How would you expect the seller of a car you were buying to treat the car before you took delivery?

Well then, maybe you need to use the shroud. I've installed a RB25DET in my R32, and even with a standard radiator, standard clutch fan, standard shroud, I don't have any problems with overheating at idle.

Then what the hell does this mean? Either you are using the fan or you aren't using the fan.If you keep changing the story, we can't possibly help diagnose the problem!

Terry, he's not running a fan. And that will explain everything. No fan, no air moving through the radiator. No air moving through the radiator, no cooling.

You can get the cam gear off/on the camshaft without the need to pull the timing case apart.

The "7.5" (or whatever the first number is) is only really related to cold starts. It is an indication of how quickly you can get lubrication to all the parts of the engine. The lower the number, the faster you get lubrication. So a "10" is better than a "15" for cold starts, and a "5" is better than a "10".

If the injectors are ticking, then the CAS is working (ECU gets a signal from the CAS then calculates when to fire the injectors). Are the fuel lines on the right way? Also, pull an injector and watch the spray while you are cranking the engine (sit the injector in a glass jar or similar). Engine might well be flooded. Pull the spark plugs and dry them off. Also, try starting with WOT. The errors you are getting will not prevent the engine from starting.

25/60 is WAAAAY too heavy for a RB20 engine. The Nissan spec is 7.5W30. You should be using something like a 0W40, 10W40, 10W30.

That's not a flywheel bolt - flywheel bolts hold the flywheel to the end of they crank. They are something like M14x1.25x30.The size you seem to be after is probably a clutch pressure plate bolt. You should be able to get them from just about any bolt place, or maybe even in multi-packs at auto parts stores (Repco, Autobarn, Supercrap, etc)

The fuel needs to come out of the injector, not out the chassis rail lines. Are the injectors working? Can you hear them "ticking" while cranking? Are you trying to start the engine with a healthy battery? The ECU needs something like 7V to stay "alive". Do a compression test on the engine. The meaning of the error codes. 13 = "Engine Temp sensor" - break or short circuit in the sensor system. 43 = "Throttle sensor system" - disconnection or short circuit in throttle sensor system. The errors are persistent, they exist for about 50 starts. So reset the ECU, then immediately check for errors.

It was unregistered, ie has no registration. How can you transfer something that doesn't exist? You have all the time in the world to get it RW, then registered.

Whay don't people with AWD Nissans ever listen to the experiences of other people who have ATTESSA problems when they run different sized F/R wheels and tyres on their AWD Nissans? The figures you put through the calculator are for NEW tyres. And the actual sizes may actually vary between manufacturers. Depending on the wear of the 255s compared to the 225s, you may encounter some ATTESSA problems.

What's this "FEEDBACK" tag that has suddenly appeared on the rhs of the screen?