blind_elk

Whay don't people with AWD Nissans ever listen to the experiences of other people who have ATTESSA problems when they run different sized F/R wheels and tyres on their AWD Nissans? The figures you put through the calculator are for NEW tyres. And the actual sizes may actually vary between manufacturers. Depending on the wear of the 255s compared to the 225s, you may encounter some ATTESSA problems.

What's this "FEEDBACK" tag that has suddenly appeared on the rhs of the screen?

ATTESSA?

Just get the new pads then. They will bed themselves into the grooves on the rotor, and work fine.

Oil pressure is not controlled by the condition of the rings. A simple way to test the rings is to do a compression test, then add a bit of oil to the cylinder (through the spark plug hole) and repeat the compression test. If the rings are worn, you will get a higher compression with the oil. Also make sure you do the compression test with WOT.

What usually happens is that the little bit of cable that goes into the back of the speedo breaks. But it could also be that the drive mechanism in the gearbox is broken or seized. It is replaceable by non-professional - I think you need to remove the instrument cluster to make life easier.

It's not unusual for brake pads to wear at different rates. Get the car to any good mechanic to have new pads installed. You might even be able to find a mobile mechanic to come to you - check Yellow Pages.

Why did I receive an email of the SAUWA newsletter, when I'm in Victoria?

Oh dear, you cleaned carbon from the throttle body. This is a common cause for high idle in GT-Rs, so I wouldn't be surprised if the same thing happened in GTSTs. You may also have dislodged the TPS so it no longer sends the "throttle closed" signal to the ECU.

Are you sure it's timed at 15? Some timing lights double the actual reading. If it's idling at 7.5, then it's probably firing AFTER TDC on boost (ie the piston is already into the power stroke before the fuel/air mixture is ignited). And that is worse than useless for making power.

There's 3 hours labour involved in changing the timing belt. To change the water pump, there is roughly the same 3 hours labour (the same disassembly of the timing case is required). So, while it's all apart for the timing belt, might as well change the water pump (might be an extra 1/2 hour labour, rather than 3).

You've been a member here for 5 years. In that time, you must have seen at least a couple of threads dealing with running different sized rims on Nissan AWD vehicles.

Pumps create pressure. Pressure (differences in pressure) causes fluids to move. The expansion of water when heated, even in an enclosed space, is insufficient to create the kinds of pressure you see inside a cooling system. And there will always be some air inside the cooling system, which will absorb the pressure increases far more readily than water will. Back to the OP - I think you will find that the water pump impellers are cactus, and the water is not circulating properly.

There's probably 100 different versions of those. Which fricken plug? (Hint: it's actually written on the ceramic part of the plug)

The inlet appears to be fine. The exhaust appears to be 2 teeth advanced. But of course it all depends on where the timing marker on the crank pulley is pointing. You don't need to remove radiator to make the adjustment.

If you've bent a valve, then it is odds-on that you will have 0 compression. If you have any compression at all, then it's more likely a rings problem.

I would pay more for the KYBs before I would even touch the Monroes.

It'll work a lot better if you put the steel wool IN the can! Doh!

But what fecken plugs are they? Manufacturer, Pt/Cu, heat range?Have you diagnosed which cylinder has the miss? Older ignitors have a tendency to cause misfires when they get hot. Unless you are running fairly serious boost, 0.8mm is probably too small. Try opening back out to around 1mm (regardless how it used to run with 0.8).

What do you mean you weren't hard on it? You hit the rev limiter in 1st gear!! I might suggest you've popped an intercooler hose.

Just fit a filter to the breather you created. And put some steel wool on the can - it gives the oil in the vapours something to condense onto.

It really sounds like ATTESSA problem. Swap the tyres F<->R, see if it goes away.

How about just asking the question once! http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Le...er-t297868.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Le...er-t297867.html First off, do you have compression?

Welcome aboard. Great little car, the GTS4. Pity the RB20 is so under-powered for it. To your problem: faulty fuel pump would more likely cause it to run lean, not rich. O2 sensor is a possibility, but remember it has no effect unless you are at constant throttle and low-medium load, eg highway cruise. Test it with a multimeter - the middle pin @ the connector in the engine bay should show volts oscillating between 0 - 1V when the engine is run @ constant 2000rpm. Engine management is unlikely, unless you have aftermarket ECU. Although they are programmed from the factory to run a bit rich. Injectors - a possibility. If 1 or 2 have a bit of dirt caught in the needle, causing a fuel leak into the cylinders. Get them sonic cleaned.

Contact Quadrant Suspensions in Berwick - they are distributors for Bilstein.