blind_elk

Unless you replace both, you will still have a restriction in the exhaust.

Voltages look ok. Fuel pressure seems a bit low at idle. You CANNOT run the fuel lines back to front. You are running HUGE cams and HUGE injectors - the car will have problems idling (ever heard a drag car or old-school race car idle smoothly?). Erratic idling can also be the AAC.

Why don't you have a spare key to the car? And a lesson I learned many years ago (180B days) - ALWAYS use the key to lock the door. Anyway, thieves usually seem to go in through the door handle and pop the pushrod. You're not in RAA? Because I'm sure they do it for free to members.

When did it start doing this?

You should be able to see where the tag broke off. Now all you need to do is visualise how the CAS would have aligned. The CAS also has a set of teeth to locate on the ex cam. By the sound of it, you are 1 tooth out on the CAS mounting position.

If she won't drive it like it should be driven, don't give her the keys My experience is that RBs like fuel to get rid of ping.

Has the locating tag for the CAS on the end of the ex cam broken off? Sounds like the CAS is out of whack a bit.

Well, what's the actual problem? Does the tacho work, or not work? Is the speedo working? Is it accurate? We're not mind readers.

I reckon you have compressor surge, because the ECU can't properly control the combustion process at 14 and 18 psi. Either back the boost off a bit, or get a retune for the boost levels you are running.

What ECU is running this engine? Are the injectors the factory set, or hi-flow aftermarket types? What fuel pressure is it running? Try giving it some throttle at start (allow more air into the cylinders).

What I'm saying is that just because you have used more fuel than you expected to use doesn't mean the odometer is inaccurate. Presumably it has been accurate until now, so there is no reason why it would suddenly become inaccurate.And it's "other THAN that".

Maybe a hi/lo boost switch

Odometer measures distances, not fuel economy. Poor fuel economy is often the result of a failed engine temp sensor (ECU thinks the engine is still cold, and overfuels the mixtures). Other possibility is a dirty air filter restricting airflow into the engine.

When the battery starts to die, the ECU will cause the engine to run like crap because it gets confused by the high charge rate trying to recharge the battery. You will more than likely have to replace the battery to solve the problem.

In terms of the effect on performance, I've had it described as like driving with the handbrake partly on. The engine will still be basically ok, and will get decent lubrication with this oil. Being summer, I would expect that it might be useful to have a slightly heavier oil, but for future reference I would recommend the 10W-40 for summer, and the 5W-30 for winter (maybe even 0W in the Blue Mountains).

As you have discovered, the rear fog light is designed to improve your visibility to following drivers in "low visibility conditions", eg fog. Just like F1s have the bright red tail light for use in extreme wet. "low visibility conditions" generally occur in "adverse weather conditions", eg fog, heavy rain. There is not much worse than tailing a car in clear conditions with a very bright rear fog lamp glaring at you.

It has probably broken the little spring that locks the selector into reverse. 2 choices - major expense to remove the gearbox to replace the broken spring. Or just put up with the inconvenience of having to hold it in reverse.

Heat range 7 is too cold for a stockish engine. Factory spec is 5. And for a stock engine, keep the wider gap, maybe close down to 1mm. And put the Splitfires back in. 15W-50 oil is too "heavy". Factory spec is 7.5-30. The first part of the description, use 0, 5, 10. The second part, use 30, certainly nothing more than a 40. eg 5W-30, 0W-40. Have you checked the ignition timing is correct? Retarded timing will certainly display symptoms of poor power delivery. Are you running the factory air box, or do you have an unshielded pod filter?

I'm pretty sure they have an ignitor module - little black box on the side of the dizzy body.

Unless you were running in "cruise" mode on the dyno, there is know way on the face of this earth that you can judge the health or otherwise of an O2 sensor.If the dyno operator tried to tell you the O2s were screwed because of rich mixtures on a power run, then find another dyno operator.

Are both front wheels off the ground? You should be able to lever the LCA down, using something like an axe or sledge hammer handle. Firstly, mount the top and hold in place so you have hands free for the lower mount.

For the RB20 (yes, I know you have a 30E, but I don't have the manual for a 30E), difficult hot starts can be caused by faulty temp sensor, or fuel pressure. Since you've replaced the engine temp sensor, maybe try removing the vacuum line from the FPR to get more fuel pressure. And if the engine can't spin fast enough, due to faulty / dying battery.

Too much information, mongor!!!! You shouldn't need to force the engine backwards. If you disconnect everything correctly, the engine should just roll back and rest the back of the rocker covers against the firewall.

Really dumb question, but the door is unlocked? I mean, you're not relying on central locking or the remote entry alarm to unlock it are you?

They work as a straight swap into a R32 GTS4. Mine cost me $3800, but that was 5 years ago, before Stageas were common. The majority will be autos, but it's relatively easy to convert them to manual (if you need to).The general concensus appears to be that you can't fit a AWD sump to a RWD block. It would be just as cheap (and easy) to get a Stagea engine in the first place.