blind_elk

What fuel pressure are you running? Considering that you are running injectors probably 4x standard flow rate, I'm surprised it runs at all. You have a programmable ECU - trim some fuel out of it at 'start' and 'idle'.

The reservoir is for ATTESSA, so you don't need it. ECUs are slightly different - GTR has 2 O2 sensors, and an air temp sensor, which the GTSt doesn't have. The extra width in the guards of the GTR is to accommodate the smaller offset of the wheels. Your GTSt rims should still fit inside the guards.

I could meet u @ ur work tomorrow.

That would be my guess.

Well, I'm home all today & tomorrow if you want to call round and sus it out. PM me for address (W. Subs).

If you have a passenger seat with the rod-type adjustable head restraint, then I have a mount that should do the job for you.

I think you will find that it increases in density down to 4 degC, then starts decreasing in density to 0 degC.

Backfire is generally excess fuel getting into the exhaust and being ignited by the heat. Since the injectors shut down at full decell, it must be a leaking injector feeding fuel during decell. Get the injectors cleaned. It may also be that the injectors are not shutting down, and that is usually a result of the TPS getting out of whack and not sending the "throttle closed" signal to the ECU. Check the TPS for 0 ohms at "throttle closed".

If you go to the manufacturer's website, you can get the density from the specs on their engine oils. For example, I went to Mobil's website, and found that Mobil1 0W-40 has a density of 0.85. So 1 litre of Mobil1 0W-40 oil would weigh 850 grams. I would suspect that the majority of engine oils would be similar density.

The main problem in lowering a Datsun/Nissan with the A-arm rear suspension is that you start to toe-out the rear end. Lowering lowers the centre of gravity of the car (good thing, generally), but also affects the roll centre (probably a good thing). The K springs are probably a softer spring, which is probably advantageous to get the arse to squat under acceleration. From experience, super heavy rear springs prevent the rear end putting power to the ground, especially in the wet. Cutting springs is not a problem, as long as the spring can remain captive at full droop. It gives a "stronger" spring as well.

A welsh plug either leaks or it doesn't leak. Does the leaking coincide with use of the A/C?

Opens TDC, closes 60ABDC. Duration = 240

I fully understand what you are saying about the ability of the standard pump to supply the engine. What I am saying is that using it - or any other high pressure, EFI pump - to supply a swirl pot is simply massive overkill.The problem you have is the fuel equivalent of why you need an intercooler for the intake air. Compressing the fuel introduces heat into the fuel. So, when you compress it to feed the swirl pot, it gets hotter. Then you compress it again to feed it to the injector rail. Added to this is that fuel is the coolant for EFI pumps, just as coolant keeps the engine block "cool". So, replacing the standard pump with a low pressure pump may help with the problem you are experiencing. Using heat wrap and the like around the fuel lines will only worsen the problem, in that the heat in the fuel will not be able to escape via heat exchange through the metal pipes to atmosphere.

I reckon you use either the single or the 6, but not both.

The "standard" pump is a high pressure EFI pump.

Don't understand why you are using a high pressure pump to keep the surge tank topped up. A low pressure, low volume pump is more than sufficient. Does the surge tank overflow back into the main tank? (it should).

4.9 is more like the sort of ratio for a rally car - rapid acceleration out of corners, keep the engine up near peak torque. I reckon something like the 4.1 ('74-on 180B SSS had this ratio) would be a good compromise between acceleration and top speed.

VVT is operated via the solenoid in the front of the head, intake side. The ECU switches it ON at around 1500 rpm, and OFF again at around 4500 rpm.

The ECU detects massive amp rates with the alternator trying to recharge the battery. This confuses the ECU, and everything gets a bit crazy. The battery is cactus, get a new one.

The fan out front is the thermo over-temp fan for the A/C. The switch is the one in the bottom tank of the radiator.If the engine is overheating even with the factory engine-driven fan fitted, there is an extremely good chance that the impeller on the water pump is cactus, and no water is being circulated to help cool the engine. You will have to pull the pump to confirm.

How much power left in the battery? Most ECUs require at least about 7V before they will spring into life.

You fitted a thermo fan that never turns on?!?! FFS! Having a thermo on constantly basically defeats the purpose of having a thermo fan (it's called a thermostatic fan because it is controlled by a thermostatic switch). What you gain by removing the load of an engine-driven fan is replaced by the additional load of driving the alternator to supply enough current to drive the thermo fan. Just put the factory fan back on.

You are aware that the GTS4 runs rwd 90% of the time, only engaging awd when necessary? As far as I am aware, the sumps are not interchangeable between RWD / AWD models. The suspension probably needs to be replaced, because a GTSt doesn't require a hub that takes a driveshaft. You will need to replace the gearbox with a rwd version. You will need to remove all the ATTESSA gear (if you are into saving weight). The clutch you need is probably universal to the RB20DET engine itself, not to a GTSt / GTS4. You will likely have problems selling just a front diff - whoever buys it will then need to source a rear diff with the same ratios. Maybe no-one is interested in buying the car because the AWD doesn't work.

Are you sure the sensor for the gauge is working ok? If the thermo fan isn't coming on but the gauge says the engine is boiling, then either the gauge is wrong, or the thermostat switch for the thermo fan is cactus. Does it feel like the engine is extremely hot (if you were bleeding a boiling engine, I'm pretty sure it would be obvious)?

PCV valve IS NOT a vacuum / boost source. You need to T off the FPR, or some other hose connected to the plenum. If that still doesn't solve the problem, you need to adjust fuel &/or timing in the idle area of the maps.