blind_elk

Vibrations generally are the result of imbalances in the wheels. Sometimes they can come from worn wheel bearings. Have those 2 areas checked out.

And then add at least another 2 psi.

If the clutch isn't aligned correctly, the gearbox won't go on. You have oil in the gearbox? (don't flame me for that, I know it's been done before) The clutch master has fluid? Been bled properly?

PM me if they become available, tx

PM sent

Take the TT out and toss it - you really don't need it, it's pure wank-factor. Just because the car ran fine after a jump-start from flat doesn't mean it has fully recovered from its ordeal. It might take several days use of the car before the battery fully recovers and is able to start the engine in the morning.

Should be fine. Just a light smear.

There's a rubber O-ring on the CAS shaft - try a bit of grease on it, and push.

Are you selling the shrouds around the steering column? And I'll take the headlamp.

You could also try swapping the coilovers L<>R, see if the difference shifts to the opposite side.

It might. The reason I suggested to disconnect the bar is that there might be some pre-load on the bar causing weight to be transferred to the opposite side of the car. Probably best to disconnect both bars, F & R.qte These [the Teins] have an adjustable spring platform uqte

Try it with the front sway bar disconnected. These have an adjustable spring platform, which is designed for getting the corner weights of the chassis evened out. You need to get the car corner weighted, not just set up with a particular ride height.

You can fit different sender gears into GTSt boxes. I had to do this (GT-R replaced standard) in my GTS4 when I changed the diff ratios to a set from a Stagea.

Actually the Japanese models put out "a nominal 276hp". This is the result of the law in place in Japan, which penalised cars producing more than 276hp. So the manufacturers declared their cars to only produce 276hp, even though everyone knew they produced considerably more.

I'd get them sonic cleaned, just to be sure. They might all be a bit crappy, and will only get worse.

Silly point, but the legs (between block and rubber mount) are side-specific, ie a RH one and a LH one. You haven't swapped them have you?

The springs you have now are the softest you are going to see. Any upgrade will be with "heavier" springs, and will only exacerbate the ride quality that you seem to dislike. It's a sports car - it should have firm suspension. But if you must have limousine ride quality, get the Bilsteins re-valved to soften their response.

Yes, I think I am using the RB20 rubbers and RB25 legs. But no mods were necessary to get them to fit together.

Probably needs some fine tuning around the idle area of the fuel &/or ignition maps.

I have this same conversion, and everything fits fine. Which engine supports did you use?

You have the hydro connect the right way round? You bled the master first? Is there a difference in piston sizes between the S14 and S15 calipers? Sometimes, there is a block inside the booster that the pushrod of the master cylinder rests against - is that the case here (it's missing)? It will feel like it's been bled properly, until you start the engine and get vacuum on the booster.

The ECU will switch the solenoid to earth. Which ECU are you using? Check for +ve at the solenoid plug - one side of multimeter to plug, other side to earth, ign ON. Also, drive around with the plug disconnected - can you feel a difference in performance?

Frankly, I don't understand what all the fuss is about erratic idle. It's only idle, FFS. If it were doing it in the middle of an overtaking acceleration, then, yes, you have a right to be concerned, but it's just at idle. As for the stalling, service the AAC (will probably solve the disaster that is your erratic idle as well).

There is a fault in the HICAS system, which, in R33s, is separate from the P/S system. But try checking the P/S fluid level first. And how old is the battery?

It won't be the AAC valve - that is only for idle control. IT WILL NOT BE THE O2 SENSOR!!!!!!!!!!!!! A dead O2 sensor will not prevent the engine from running. It will simply cause an increase in fuel consumption (at worst). It could be the fuel pump controller playing up. See if you can get a fuel pressure gauge set up and drive around a bit observing if fuel pressure has an effect. The clear plastic fuel filters are for carburetted engines. They only need to withstand around 4psi pressure. All EFI engines run a metal canister fuel filter, so they can withstand the 3bar + fuel pressures.